Well did the throttle body;s to day and while the tank was off i disconnected the Co2 plug and fitted a 330 Hom resistor and did the air box mod and put it all back together and went for a ride, what a difference ,so smooth and pulled like a train and all the surging had gone but the F1 light is on all the time now. Is there a magic thing I can do to make it go out??????????
Quote from: "renagade"Well did the throttle body;s to day and while the tank was off i disconnected the Co2 plug and fitted a 330 Hom resistor and did the air box mod and put it all back together and went for a ride, what a difference ,so smooth and pulled like a train and all the surging had gone but the F1 light is on all the time now. Is there a magic thing I can do to make it go out??????????
As long as everything is connected back up, it will go out by itself after the 3rd warm up/cool down cycle. If it doesnt, somethings amiss, either you forgot to reconnect everything, or the resistor mod isnt right. Of course with Tune ECU or Tuneboy you can turn the light off using the programme.
Same thing happened to me last week when I did the throttle balance. Funnily enough I am reading this while stopped for some lunch while in the middle of fitting a modified air box.
Looking forward to trying out the new mod this afternoon. Timbox 2 is right, the light will go out again after 3 cycles of heat up and cool down,so long as all is put back together correctly.
From your post it sounds like a good mod :D
Why not hook up TuneECU and switch the o2 sensor off in the map? There will be then no need for a resister. At the same time you can clear the fault codes and remap the ECU to provide even smoother power output. Here is a helpful and informed 'how to' by the great Triumph guru, DEcosse:
http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tu ... neecu.html (http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tuning-help-tips-and-tricks/141608-tuneecu.html)