Of course I'm researching and checking my manual. But thought I'd plumb your depths of knowledge at the same time. :D
On some back roads yesterday my bike overheated. I don't mean it went from cool to really warm I mean it went from normal operating temp to omg smoke/steam/resorvoir boiling over craziness in just a few minutes.
I had been slabbing it for about 50mi earlier that day at umm fast speeds with no problem, and this happened lowspeed on a broken up back road.
I of course shut her down, let her cool a bit, made sure there was coolant in the resorvoir, and tried to get to a service station (my garmin lied it took me to a closed one) it overheated again on the way.
Finally nursed her to an operating fuel station. And let her rest a good 45min while I ate.
Decided that one last time I'd try to nurse her home before calling for help (aka a trailer on my uncle's truck). She didn't even make it 5mi before it all happened again. Pulled over shut her down for good and took her home behind my dad's f250 :cry: :cry: :cry:
Now my likely diagnoses is thermo problems, because of it overheating again so fast, if it's not cycling fluid out of the jackets because of a closed thermo switch...But I'm no mechanic....but I do wanna fix it myself obviously
1. Any feedback or thoughts on likely causes?
2. I want a new thermo but don't really wanna wait 2 weeks on bike bandit. Anyone know somewhere I can go faster?
Thanks guys
here's some bike porn for your troubles
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd482/brittandthatsall/0529011630.jpg)
When was the radiator cap last changed? Known weak point on the Girlies.
take your thermostat out and drop it in a pail of boiling water .........if it's any good you will see it open as soon as it hits the hot water .
then you'll know if you need thermostat or rad cap.
check and see if there is coolant in oil ..........could've blown a head gasket too. for it to boil that fast .
As Mustang says above, check the thermostat as above.
You can run the bike without one fitted if you can't keep the bike off the road while you wait for one to be delivered.
I just fitted a honda rad cap a couple weeks ago to solve the peeing problem....
No water in oil, and it was the changed the day before, filter and all.
I may have to take you up on the taking cap off bit so I can get around as normal.
Anyone know if triumph shops will ship parts? I really really don't want to wait on bike bandit. Last time they took 15 days from time of order to get me some simple seals
Contact Baxter Cycle in Marne, Iowa...
They normally have parts ready to ship.
BTW: They have a lot of salvage AND vintage parts also
TEL: (712) 781-2351
Baxter Cycle
Box 85
Marne, IA 51552
Quote from: "WVdyhrd"I just fitted a honda rad cap a couple weeks ago to solve the peeing problem....
No water in oil, and it was the changed the day before, filter and all.
I may have to take you up on the taking cap off bit so I can get around as normal.
Anyone know if triumph shops will ship parts? I really really don't want to wait on bike bandit. Last time they took 15 days from time of order to get me some simple seals
Most dealers take 2 weeks too , it's not just bike bandit .
Like tiger trax says get ahold of Baxter Cycle .................
Quote from: "WVdyhrd"I just fitted a honda rad cap a couple weeks ago to solve the peeing problem....
I would start here as this may be your problem...........
Or, from the Tiger parts cross-reference page:
------------------------------------------------------
"Radiator Cap
The Triumph caps are prone to weakening before their time, allowing vapor and coolant to escape, resulting in an overly hot Tiger.
The Triumph caps are $19 at a dealer, IF they have one in stock.
ArizonaKid discovered that a Stant 10227 radiator cap, a replacement for 80's Toyotas (as well as 1988-91 Honda Civic), is a perfect fit for a Tiger, available at auto parts stores 'round the world. About $7.
Edit for a new development:
walker wrote:
The stant 10227 (replaced by the newer 11227) is only a 13 psi cap. A good replacement might be the 11233 - it's 16 PSI, which is right at the 1.1 BAR that triumph specifies.
Same dimensions, just a different main spring.
To add...
flux wrote:
FYI:
This cap fits these cars:
ACURA (1989 - 2005)
CHEVROLET (1985 - 1988)
CHRYSLER (1995 - 1999)
DODGE (1995 - 1999)
EAGLE (1995 - 1998)
FORD (1989 - 2009)
GEO (1989 - 1993)
HONDA (1990 - 2007)
HYUNDAI (1998 - 2008)
INFINITI (1997 - 2007)
ISUZU (1985 - 2004)
KIA (2001 - 2008)
LEXUS (1992 - 2007)
MAZDA (1993 - 2008)
MERCURY (1989 - 2001)
MITSUBISHI (1995 - 2008)
NISSAN (1990 - 2008)
SUBARU (1999 - 2008)
SUZUKI (2004 - 2008)
TOYOTA (1994 - 2008)
YMMV
just an FYI some of those stant caps the rubber seal doesnt go deep enough in the radiator to seal properly , which has caused some to continue having boil over probs with the STANT cap and folks have ponied up the 20 bucks for a triumph cap and problem solved .
There's a thread on here somewhere with pics that show the difference between the Stant caps and the OEM Triumph cap.
edit ****** found it read this thread to the end
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/viewto ... diator+cap (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9074&highlight=radiator+cap)
you pretty much need the OEM cap to solve boil over probs on Girly bikes !
Quote from: "Mustang"you pretty much need the OEM cap to solve boil over probs on Girly bikes !
+1
Since the caps fits a lot of Nissans, AND I work at a Nissan dealer, I can add this:
There are a LOT of these caps swapped for leakage and lack of pressurisation.
Not a bad idea to get a new one once in a while.
Cosmo
yep - the stant is good as a temporary replacement in a pinch. the heavier one is better, since when installed, the spring isn't compressed as far as the OEM cap.
I ran the stant for a few months in the summer till I got less lazy and got a brand new triumph branded one. Worked fine for the few months, but I didn't do a long term test.
WVdyhrd - I think it was suggested you can run Tiger without a THERMOSTAT - not Radiator cap.
thanks guys. Triumph genuine rad cap, and thermo arrived today, i'll keep ya posted.
p.s. anyone have the hose setup for running with the tank off? I need some but can't spend 253
Quote from: "WVdyhrd"p.s. anyone have the hose setup for running with the tank off? I need some but can't spend 253
I have but I'm a little far away from you.....
But it's easy to make up a set using the plastic connectors you took off when you fitted the metal ones.
Buying a Triumph?
Rule #1: Buy a MANUAL!
Rule #2: Make notes / and jot down alternative
products.
Rule #3: Carry that parts list with you along with some critical
specs ( like rear axel torque settings first time you
are on a trip and need to adjust your chain... you'll
wish you had it! )
Rule #4: Carry 2 tie-down straps!
Quote from: "iansoady"Quote from: "WVdyhrd"p.s. anyone have the hose setup for running with the tank off? I need some but can't spend 253
I have but I'm a little far away from you.....
But it's easy to make up a set using the plastic connectors you took off when you fitted the metal ones.
Ummm it still has the plastic ones, I plan on doing the swap soon, but the previous owner never did it, and they still work....sooo they're still on there
New problem. I repaired/replaced my thermo housing, thermostat, and seals in there. Refilled coolant, blah blah blah.
Put it all together, and it won't start. The starter IS spinning (i even rolled the bike around hoping it was just a flat spot). I've checked my solenoid, and it seems in order.
Sooooo my thoughts are fuel or fire? Well just replaced the plugs a few weeks before, and have double checked all my connections.
Any tips on what to do next? I'm cash strapped (darn economy) and the nearest triumph shop is hours away; and I'd love to really ride my tiger this summer. So I humbly accept any and all sage sober guidance??
if it was running b4 you worked on it go back and make sure everything YOU worked on is correct ..............
does the fuel pump sound like its running when you turn the key on ?
check for blown fuses
perchance hooked up the coils out of sequence so firing order is wrong ?
Quote from: "Mustang"if it was running b4 you worked on it go back and make sure everything YOU worked on is correct ..............
does the fuel pump sound like its running when you turn the key on ?
check for blown fuses
perchance hooked up the coils out of sequence so firing order is wrong ?
I have re checked everything that I messed with recently seems fine. Coincidental I guess? All I I'd was pull tank replace thermo.
But I will (when home) investigate fuel pump and fuses (how could I not check fuses haha) and will report my findings sir :)
Nobody has mentioned the possibility of reversed expansion tank hose connections yet, maybe we all assume all Girlies have been fixed by now. I had to fix mine when I bought it even though it had been to the dealer a few times previous. Also one of my plastic hose ends at the expansion tank was broken and would have prevented any suction.
What happens is every time the engine gets hotter than usual it spits a little coolant into the expansion tank but if your hoses are reversed the coolant is not sucked back upon a return to normal temperature. The result is a gradual decrease of coolant volume in the engine, part coolant and part air. Topping up through the expansion tank will not put water into the engine and it will eventually overheat dramatically, usually while at a stop while idling on a hot day. When mine did this all the talk was about the "bad" radiator cap but it actually was the reversed hoses and my original cap continues to function perfectly.
Also realize that a thermostat will not function properly if it is filled with air/steam instead of coolant. Likewise the water pump if a large air volume is present and water circulation manages to push it as far as the pump. It will not pump air.
Well I checked my fuses (i pulled em all) and they seem ok. Battery is in decent shape (tests +2). I think I hear my pump kicking in. Maybe Not as loud as it normally is (maybe I'm just imagining the decrease) but the noise is def there.
So I guess next is time to pull the tank again and check for fire?
forgive my ignorance...but any different then any other motor? Or can I just pull the plugs out and hold em against something metal and the coil pack and look for fireworks?
I have seen overflow/recovery hoses that are kinked shut, and in some cases have holes that weep fluid or leak the vacuum out so the radiator/cooling system can't draw the fluid back into the system as it cools, thus making it a "one-way" proposition
Good Luck, wanna get riding again on our big girls
oops! in answer to your last query, I have a dedicated test lead with a pair of clips, alligator on one end, and a larger clamp (think battery charger) on the other, so I don't have to hold anything.
You can def get a good shock holding them, plus it's hard to find a good ground on some engines within easy reach of the plug wires length.
Once constructed this jumper wire/clamp setup has lasted many many years and can be used for lots of electrical bypasses/checks
Hey WVdyhrd !! have ya rechecked yer kill switch :oops:
its easily done !!
don't ask :roll:
KK