I pulled my alternator today to check out the DAR. Alt side looks good. PO replaced bolts with 12.9 grade, so the bolt issue must be on the clutch side. I don't think I am going to do that myself as I don't have the tool and don't want to purchase it for a one time job. My cush bits are disintegrated. Can I leave them out for the 15 minute drive to the dealer, or will this result in damage? I wouldn't normally do this, but if they don't have these in stock at the dealer tomorrow, it will take 4 days for them to come in, and I have an apt for valve check on Thursday. Hmmmm......?
I really enjoy working on this bike, it's getting the parts that has proven to be a pain.
Quote from: "Zojirushi"My cush bits are disintegrated. Can I leave them out for the 15 minute drive to the dealer, or will this result in damage? I wouldn't normally do this, but if they don't have these in stock at the dealer tomorrow, it will take 4 days for them to come in, and I have an apt for valve check on Thursday. Hmmmm......?
checkin the valves is easy .................dealers gonna bone ya hard to do it like 400 dollar hard .
I myself wouldn't even consider running the engine with no cush rubbers on the alternator , if the rubbers are destroyed thats probably the only thing making the DAR .
save yourself lots of money and do the valves yourself .it's not that bad .
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,34259 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,34259)
Went to pick up the alternator upgrade bolt only to be told the part is discontinued. This can't be right? If so, what are my options? Stronger bolts and wait for it to break again?
are you sure you have a broken bolt. destroyed cush rubbers will make it loud and rattling even if the bolts are good .
and there is an upgraded driveshaft and bolt kit that replaces the ones you found were discontinued
The bolt behind the alternator is completely loose. I thought i read this is indicative of a br(ken clutch side bolt.
Quote from: "Zojirushi"The bolt behind the alternator is completely loose. I thought i read this is indicative of a br(ken clutch side bolt.
loose or broken ? have you tried tightening it .
you need to pull the clutch cover and see whats behind the clutch hub
if there is a bolt in that side tighten it ,see the below pic,it is the bolt thats at 12 oclock just behind the clutch hub gear with the green dot on it
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1948.jpg)
Quote from: "Mustang"checkin the valves is easy .................dealers gonna bone ya hard to do it like 400 dollar hard .
save yourself lots of money and do the valves yourself .it's not that bad .
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,34259 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,34259)
Yeah I even did it twice and I'm a pinhead.
Ok, Mustang. You made me do it. :)
Checked my valves and found the following clearances:
Cylinder: 1 2 3
Inlet: .13-.10 - .10-.13- .10-.08
Exhaust: .15-.18 -.18-.18 -.18-.18
I take this to mean the only valve out of spec is #3 inlet on the outside.
I don't have Mustang's tool (yet), but I assume I need to reshim this prior to my trip. Which means cam shaft removal?
Which leads to my next question!
The Haynes manual states that when you line up the T1 mark to the pickup sensor, the arrows on the cam sprockets should be horizontal and pointed at each other. My arrows don't go into horizontal alignment until about 10 degrees later in the rotation. Problem?
Finally, when pulling the cam shafts it states to pull the tensioner and then put a piece of wood in between the blade to prevent tooth movement but shows no pictures of this. Tips/tricks/suggestions? :D
you also have three other intakes that are dead on the tight side of spec and 1 exhaust that is right on the tight side of spec .
before a big trip I would shim those up to be more in the middle to loose , if you do that it will be a long time b4 you need to do em again .
the arrows should line up with the t1 mark , something don't seem right there
how's it run ?
this is what you need to see ............
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/100_2007.jpg)
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/photos/512813768_jDwhc-M.jpg)
if it aint like this make it so...........you have to make sure the slack is out of the chain on the front side and is all on the rearside for the tensioner
Thanks for the reply. She ran fine, but I think she was a bit rich. A bit of carbon on plugs 1 and 2, but I figured this due to the adjustment screws being out too much. Also, she needed no choke to start.
Now that I looked at it again, the first time I rotate to T1 at pickup sensor the arrows are opposing each other outwards. The second time I go around, she rotates right before the T1 mark hits the pickup sensor, stops about 10 degrees past, but the arrows are not aligned. They appear to be off a tooth or two.
How do I remedy this? I've never dug this far into a bike or car. I have the haynes manual, and I am not too worried about pulling the cams if the worse that could happen is a skipped tooth, ha.
My departure date of Thursday is seeming less likely. :x
Figured out why they were opposed. The ex and in sprockets were swapped. Too late though, i already pulled the cams.
The caps seem stuck; how hard can i tap without damaging the dowels?
wiggle wiggle wiggle they will come off ............make sure you note where each cap goes they are not interchangeable , also the sprockets are the same for either cam they just position differently
the intake cam has a grooved center secton the exhaust cam has a smooth center section
intake cam
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/photos/512812989_WQKpJ-M.jpg)
(http://jetdoc.smugmug.com/photos/512812538_DRfoX-M.jpg)
Noticed they were interchangeable once removed. I guess that doesnt explain the issue then. I will pull shims and replace, realign arrows, and put her back together then.