How To Remove Your Tank

[Stretch]

Adding this link for making your own Fuel Hose extensions, handy for running the bike with the tank off in order to sync throttle bodies and also to bleed the cooling system.

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6321 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6321)

[ridin gaijin]

Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all...  So I'm still not sure what to try.

As for the thread, it ooks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools  :lol:

looking at the photo , here's what I would try :
start the back bolt but don't tighten more than a turn or two , then raise the front of  tank up in the air just a little until you can get the front bolt to start then you should be able to get the bolts to tighten up
These problems are what usually occur when the body work and tank have been sitting not attached to the bike for any length of time , they are plastic and temperature affects them greatly , they can and do expand and contract and makes reassembly tricky sometimes .

Man that is totally what happened to me. The tank was off the bike for about a month. It would go back on for a few minutes to test something, but I never bolted it in at those times. Now it's all jacked up. Doesn't sit square, won't bolt back in, holds the battery tray at a weird angle. Sigh. Patience will get it right I hope!

It doesn't help that off road "adventures" have bashed up the turn signal parts pretty good too. Lesson learned: get the engine guards first thing, not a couple years in.  :roll:

[EvilBetty]

Thankfully mine came with them :)

If it hadn't I would have been not just replacing a pannier lid and a fairing.

[GARYSTIGER955i]

:shock:

--Re: this photo: mine has the same setup--but in about ten tank on-and-offs in the past few weeks, I've gotten confused...my red coupling is on top and silver on the bottom. I think.

Um, I think...

...Anyone else with this setup can say for sure? Please...?  Then I can do what I should've in the first place and label 'em. :oops:

Ay up from Yorkshire... i have just renewed my female connectors as the top one has decided to crack and leak fuel ( and i hav'nt had the tank of in a couple of years) which is down to fatigue, any way i replace then with the cpc units which i may add also fit direct onto the oem anodised triumph ones.
 Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.. i hope the helps as i have used this to get my couplings and it just cost me £34 including postage to the uk, and i did not use the male connectors as the originals fitted.
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5670 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5670)        :D

[ridin gaijin]

Don't know about color, but the line mounted on the fuel rail closest tothose connections goes on the top connection. As pictured.

Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.

Damn...I should've made this a poll!  :D "Do you like your red on the top or on the bottom?" or something similar... :o

Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)

[Stretch]

Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)

It takes a geek to know a geek.  :mrgreen:

[GARYSTIGER955i]

Don't know about color, but the line mounted on the fuel rail closest tothose connections goes on the top connection. As pictured.

Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.

Damn...I should've made this a poll!  :D "Do you like your red on the top or on the bottom?" or something similar... :o

Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)

 Ok update....  i have started my bike up tonight to find my engine management light was on..  so i got my code reader out.. read the codes and tried to erase all 3 but 1 would not go out and it was a air intake sensor reading high.. so i stripped it all back down to find that i had forgot to plug into the sensor on the airbox at the front, so i have put it back together with the red fuel connector to the top and after switching the ignition on and checking for leaks i erased said code and started her up with no problems and no management light on so after various stops and starts and rechecks with the code reader there are no faults found.. So the story is about the fuel lines     :lol: and it dont matter which way they go as it still runs, all i can say is both lines attach to the fuel rail but its the direction in which it flows, as the lines are in and out.. OUT being the lower connector and IN(return) upper.. so there we go PS the code reader is a MAC tools CAN OBD11/EOBD ET80 unit for about £50 quid ($75?) hope this helps   :D

[DKWrider]

Just finished taking off the tank (thanks to this "how-to") and have a few recommendations that helped me.

When I loosened the handlebars, I used a bungee to hold them out of the way while I removed and installed the tank.  





I used a 3/8" drive Torx T-30 socket to remove the inside bolts holding the turn signals instead of the "special tool".  Cost me less than $5 at the auto parts store and used it a lot during this process (keeps you from rounding out bolts).  You have to turn the forks away from the bolt, but worked great.



Lastly, apply a little ArmorAll to the rubber bumpers (horns) before putting the tank back on.  I have used this trick a lot for grippy rubber pieces on my old cars.  It provides just enough friction relief to slide the tank on with little to no resistance (also helps preserve the part).  I had no alignment problems as the tank moved freely enough for me to get a line up first try.

[WVdyhrd]

What amazes me most about Triumph is the amount of bolts they use.  WTF?  I bet the weight of these things could be reduced by 90% if you took out some bolts.   :lol:

haha, how true, and it wouldn't help to have consitently used the same types of connectors all around...

That said I'm no mechanic/engineer... Is there a reason that one bolt is hex, the next is torx? Or is it just to support the booming tool economy? :lol:  :lol:

[jaak]

Unplug the fuel gauge electrical connection...




Great old post! But I still need a little help. I have a 2006. I rode it a lot back in 2006-2008 and also did most of the maintenance, the tank came off and went back on tens of times..  I did it again this week. Putting it back on I just don't seem to find where to plug the fuel gage wires into. They are tangling from the tank and I cant find the "opposite" plug. Took the tank off again, evel pulled tha airbox to see if I left the wire hidden there. Nothing. If anyone has pictures, or can take pictures; specifically of where does the wire originate from on the bike. Then I could narrow down my search and hopefully find it..  Many thanks! Cheers!

[xtphreak]

Well Chillun. . .
Here are some tips for replacing the tank.

1. The back TORQUE bolt; Replace it with a hex head... make life easy!
    The threads are 6 x 1.0. You can get an exact length replacement at
    Westlake hardware. It will have a 10mm hex head.

2. Many have had a difficult time getting it bolted down....
    things don't line up:
    - Start the rear bolt with only 3/4 - 1 turn ( enough to catch )
    - The top is often the 'sum-a-gun'. Hold the rubber bushing to the light
      and you will see where the hole is closer to one area of the edge than
      any other... place that nearest the tank. CArefully slip the bolt in and
      start with your fingers. You may have to straddle the seat frame and
      lift up about 1/2" and try to start the bolt... that usually works.
     It goes  at a steeper angle than you may think.
     You'll have to play with it a bit but it will 'catch' ... when it does turn it
     in a few good turns ( make certain you have allen wrench at 90° for
     leverage).
     Now get the rear started.... tighten both... alternating.

PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
      metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.

    Shazbah!

I used Stainless Steel allen head bolts for the tank mounts with a stainless washer under each.

also I use tie wraps for lifting the battery, a bigg'un threaded BELOW the square nuts will also hold that nut up high enough to get the bolt started when you reattach the battery leads.