Dodgy idling

[growntree]

Hi all,

Thought I'd pop on over after having a bit of a quirk on my 1999 tiger. Everything has been running fine apart from the idling speed has dropped to about 500rpm which it can hold for about 10 seconds before dying. It has been sat for about 2 years, but this has only happened after two days of use. After a bit of research, I'm thinking it may be the iacv, but I've still yet to track down it's location.

On another note, I've just got tuneecu and a lead to have a gander to see what it's doing and thought I'd read the current map that was loaded in the ECU and was slightly surprised when it reported map 9888 for a sprint st. I've had the bike for about 5 years, so it's been running on that map without and noticeable issues for at least that long, but I'm wondering if this is a problem or if I should just leave it alone.

Thank you in advance for any advice.
Graham

[Bixxer Bob]

Bluestone 42 moment.  "What's the first rule"? 

1st rule is if it runs ok don't f**k with it.  Since it was going ok up till now it's not the map.  After 2 years it needs a new battery ad a check of the charging circuit.  I'm assuming you charged the battery before you started it.  If the charging circuit isn't doing the job, the battery will be down by now.  Likewise, if it's on it's way out it'll hold charge for a day or two then let you down.  For the price of a battery it's not worth faffing about.  With a fully charged battery check volts across the terminals with the engine running; you should have around 14.5 volts.

With TuneECU use the test menu to cycle the IACV.  Listen for it moving smoothly up and down (4 times I think).  If it's moving ok the fault is elsewhere.

[John Stenhouse]

It's more than likely it's the vacumn pipes, they're under the tank, so tank off, it's also where the IACV is too since they're connected to it.

[growntree]

The battery should be OK as it has been plugged into an optimate during its time off the road.

Is the iacv cycle option available on the android version or is it only the windows version that has that option?

Is been kinda trying to avoid taking the tank off as the previous owner told me it had a tendency to leak out all the petrol when removing the pipes.

Thank you both for your advise. :-)

[growntree]

Thought I'd post a quick update...

The iacv test appeared to work ok, so I started her up and let the revs settle which day around the 700-800 mark and the battery showed 12.9 volts. I found the iacv setting in the adjustments menu which was set to 118. I tweaked it up initially to 127, but now it is on 125 as that was the minimum setting it sounded 'happy' and the revs according to tuneecu were in the 1100-1300 range, but on the bike stayed more or less on the 1000 mark and the voltage on 13.9-14v. The cable will be going with me in the top box tomorrow in case anything weird happens so I can fire up tuneecu on my phone and set it back to 118. As bixxer bob recommended, the map has stayed as is as it has been quite happy on that since 2008.

Thank you both for your advice on this.
Graham

[Bixxer Bob]

Those steps are awfully high, 35 or so is normal, but then again, you're running an odd map so whatever works...

Regarding the battery, and given that they cost about the same as a tank and a half of fuel, I'd advise keeping an eye on it. Tiger charging systems are notoriously fragile and cost around 200 quid to fix.   If it gives the slightest hint that it's on it's way don't put it off, it's just not worth it.

[growntree]

As it has had 5 previous owners, I guess anything could have happened to have the odd map. Possibly even an ECU change I suppose. I'll have a go at pulling the tank off when I'm low on fuel as the guide on here doesn't mention copious amounts of fuel coming out when the pipes are disconnected. Then I can perhaps fund out all the non standard parts lol. I've already discovered the 'not for road use' stamped on the exhaust. The battery has been changed since I got the bike as the previous one wasn't holding charge very well. On Monday it managed to start the bike at least a dozen times throughout the day as I stopped for smoke breaks and the like, but I'll see how it goes

[John Stenhouse]

Not for road use probably means a TOR can, A good thing I think on the bike.

[Bixxer Bob]

Before messing with the tank, read up on plastic fuel fittings; Chris Canning amongst others has changed them for metal ones if that hasn't already been done.  If the connectors leak the "o" rings need changing, use Viton rings of the same size.

Some simple tips as well. Run the fuel level low first, these things are heavy full; clear a landing spot before picking it up - they're bigger than they look on the bike and it's embarrassing wandering around the garage looking for somewhere to put it down.  Don't leave it off the bike for any length of time - the plastic deforms and it's more difficult to get the bolts back in when you put it back on.  Other than that its a doddle.  Oh, and don't forget to unclip the 30 amp fuse on the outside of the battery box before trying to pull it completely clear. 

[growntree]

That's useful to know, thank you. It'll be a good opportunity to figure out why my fuel gauge only works occasionally. The ecu error code said it was reading high. When it does work it never gets to the top anyway lol, so I've got used to testing the trip meter each time I fill up.

[Bixxer Bob]

Well,,,  while the tank's off and fuel is low, remove the sender, clean it and put it back. Check the wiring at the same time -  at the loom connector short the green / black to ground and you should be a full reading on the gauge.

[Chris Canning]

Before messing with the tank, read up on plastic fuel fittings; Chris Canning amongst others has changed them for metal ones if that hasn't already been done.  If the connectors leak the "o" rings need changing, use Viton rings of the same size.

Some simple tips as well. Run the fuel level low first, these things are heavy full; clear a landing spot before picking it up - they're bigger than they look on the bike and it's embarrassing wandering around the garage looking for somewhere to put it down.  Don't leave it off the bike for any length of time - the plastic deforms and it's more difficult to get the bolts back in when you put it back on.  Other than that its a doddle.  Oh, and don't forget to unclip the 30 amp fuse on the outside of the battery box before trying to pull it completely clear. 

Before I got to this I was thinking jeeze it's like watching a slow mo car crash  if the tank hasn't been off for a while there will be a lot of cleaning going on underneath!! have the gear and the time to do it as Bixxer said have a look at the female fuel connectors you'll be able to see with the seat and side panels off are they plastic?? if they are do not lift the tank they'll snap off as soon as you touch them at that age work out a plan for buying new ones.

Oh and just because a battery has been on a tender believe you me that doesn't mean a thing if the battery is over 18 months old anything is possible I still have the mental scares of bumping a fully loaded K1200 to get it on the ferry a couple of years ago and that was after always being on a tender and a 175 mile ride te boot 

[trophydave]

Agreed on the battery,I have had more than one fail despite them showing green on the Optimate.

[Bixxer Bob]

Yup,  went out as normal on my Blackbird, no hint of anything, started as usual; stopped for fuel after riding for about an hour, tried to start it and there was nothing, only a faint glow from the ign light.

Some years earlier, went to the TT, everything ok,  had to bump start it the day we came back, REG/REC knackered by the time I got home, fried by trying to charge a dead battery for 200 miles.