Sorry another DAR-fix timid set of questions

[Colonel Nikolai]

Okay I've collected many bits I think are relevant from reading all the various posts on this thread:



What we have (left to right, top to bottom) is:

0) the thin aluminum washer of unknown origin or purpose but found in the same box I labeled "DAR" (:?:)
1) the hardened washer from bike bandit
2) the splined shaft I picked up from a 2003 Trophy breakdown on ebay
3) the hardened nut for holding the bolt to the veined flange
4) the hardened bolt with threadlocker on it from bike bandit (I have 2)
5) the four sets of bushings for the alternator itself from bike bandit
6) the o-ring alternator gasket from bike bandit

Now lemme check:

I am to take off the alternator. When this is done the hole where the alternator was will look like this (thanks steamoto):



I am then to remove that nut to remove the veined flange it's holding on to reveal:



After which I am to carefully tug on the hardened bolt to see if it moves. If it does, see if it will pull out more that 1/4". If it does STOP PULLING as the bolt is broken I will have to remove the clutch cover. if it does not, I can tighten it down again to the specified torque settings unless the threads are stripped. In which case I'm back to opening the clutch cover.

So, onto the clutch cover coming off. Here is where I run out of good photos to explain but I will try with this one:



Where the bolt is being removed in the photo, DON'T DO THAT as the starter's sprag clutch will fall down into the engine and you will be in a certain kind of hell which we do not discuss here. What you want to do is use the spare splined shaft (with a bolt in it) from the engine side to PUSH the old splined shaft and bolt through so you remove the old bad bolt while keeping the sprag clutch suspended. Then carefully push a second hardened bolt back the other way through the hollow shaft because the new bolt in there is the wrong way in.

Now you can put the viened flange back in and use the hardened nut to tighten it down. Don't forget where the hardened washer goes.

While I have the alternator off I should change all four of its bushings as this helps to reduce shearing forces on the bolt from old, stiff or worn bushings.

Did I get it right?

[Mustang]

pretty much nailed it  

[Colonel Nikolai]

Wow, I can't believe I actually understand this procedure. THANK YOU Mustang. You have so much good motorcycle karma coming your way!

Is the thin alu washer a red herring? I think it is.

[Mustang]

[aeronca]

wait, what do you mean "engine side"?  do you mean clutch side?


quote:
"Where the bolt is being removed in the photo, DON'T DO THAT as the starter's sprag clutch will fall down into the engine and you will be in a certain kind of hell which we do not discuss here. What you want to do is use the spare splined shaft (with a bolt in it) from the engine side to PUSH the old splined shaft and bolt through so you remove the old bad bolt while keeping the sprag clutch suspended. Then carefully push a second hardened bolt back the other way through the hollow shaft because the new bolt in there is the wrong way in. "

[nightrunner]

So I assume you have already determined that you have DAR on the clutch side?  At least half the time its on the alternator vane.  Have you checked that?

[Colonel Nikolai]

aeronica, yes, I said engine side. Notice I say push back the other way so you have a bolt pointing the right way in the end.

Should I be pushing from the clutch side instead? I'll edit the post if you can make me understand.

[Colonel Nikolai]

I did not determine that nightrunner, how do you determine that?

[Mustang]

check and see if this bolt is broken or loose  



and then check if the vane hub rattles around loose on the shaft even with the bolt tight

[Colonel Nikolai]

Oh! If the vane hub rattles, what do I need to do then?

[Mustang]

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/viewto ... hlight=dar

[nightrunner]

What happens is the vanes (both of them) have just a tiny bit of jiggle room on the splines.  In many cases (and its purely random), the vane will grip the bolt in one direction and not so in the other.  This results in the bolt being ever so slowly tightened as the throttle is increased or decreased.  Eventually the bolt gets so tight it snaps the head.  Can happen on the sprag shaft or the alt shaft.  Some Tiggers never get it.  The trick is to use some JB Weld or bearing potting cement on the splines when you reassemble it.   This takes up the tiny amount of play that allows the jiggle.  Also use thread locker on the end shaft bolts so they will resist both loosening and further tightening.

[Colonel Nikolai]

Got it I think. Right now I'm praying it's the alternator side that's got the rattle. And my voltmeter shows 12-12.5 volts (sometimes less!) at idle. When driving I get up to 13.5 and stay there.