Replaced TPS, bike runs worse!

[metalguru]

Good point there BB, the 500rpm jump pulling the clutch in kind of threw me a bit.

[Bixxer Bob]

You got it right getting him to do the TPS reset first MG as that would have been my first advice for most of the probs he describes.  My money now is on a gasket leak. The OEM throttle body bolts are crap and airleaks are well known (look on the 955i Daytona forum).  I used a thin smear of silicon gasket goo when I did mine.

[metalguru]

Most definately a good tip about the gasket goo.

Had a few of these through my place lately and sealed all with Yamabond. Been useing for years and has never let me down. A bit expensive to buy and tricky to store but I figured if it's good enough for Yamaha to build their engines with.....Can also get the same stuff in different colours from different big four Jap builders.

[mtrdrms]

Wow if I had known there was so many responses so quick, I would have been back sooner.  
So to answer some questions:
MG- the map is 9849 and the TPS voltage was .65. All of the spots for long term fuel trim were not accessable and gave no readings.

This issue has always been but is now worse.  Although I think it may be getting better as time goes on but maybe I am just getting used to it.  I did replace the gasket and torqued the TB bolts from the inside out but I could see where the symptoms point to an air leak.  Maybe I didn't seat the airbox fully?  I plugged in all sensors that I disconnected and used dielectric grease.  There are no DTC's stored and no CEL.  Im gonna be bummed if I have to pull the throttle bodies again...

Andy

[mtrdrms]

pic of screen capture.  Note the long term trim not illuminated

[Timbox2]

You appear to have a very early map, 9849 doesnt even come up in the list of tunes, 9891 is about the lowest I can see, though I did see a 9852 but that was for speed triples I think.

Check your Vin Number against the tune list and download the appropriate tune.

Do you know any of the previous history for this bike? Engine swap a possibility?

[mtrdrms]

Interesting.  I'll download a new map today.  I don't really know much about the history of the bike.  I am the third owner and the second owner only had it a year.  The first owner put 50k miles on it and appeared to maintain it well but use it (couple of trips to the artic circle I am told).  

Anyway the frame number is SMT700IH8XJ081560 and the engine number is 00EHX081738.  Sound fishy?

[mtrdrms]

UPDATE:
So I found an issue a few weeks back.  One of the hoses popped off the IAC (?) and was sucking air into the thottle body causing it to run poorly.  So while I was in there to find out what was going on, I resealed the thottle bodies with Hondabond and cleaned the electrical connections again.  The only issue is the bike is still snatchy!  It runs just like it did before the TPS replacement.  Is there something else I should check?  I put about 250 miles a week on the bike and its annoying and can't be good for the bike.  

Andy

[peds]

I too have the same problems...... however, I now have a TPS - loaned very kindly by Chris Canning (on here) and I also now have the Tune ECU setup.
I bought my bike with nearly 45k (Miles) on the clock and I cover almost 500 miles a week on mine.
I fitted a scottoiler a few weeks ago but made sure all joints were air tight by using superglue as a sealant and then going over that with self amalgamating tape - awesome stuff but a bugger to get back off again, so don't put it anywhere where you may want to!!
I work long hours Mon to Thurs and so tomorrow is Friday and I can't wait to get in the garage and do some 'snoopin' on my ECU.

Gonna check all the gaskets and pipes now to after reading the thread above, more SA tape on the pipes, me thinks.

Can't get over how helpful the guys are on this forum, keep up the good work and I will keep you informed of my discoveries - I will probably be back tomorrow with more questions......

Thanks all

Peds

[Bixxer Bob]

Ref the snatchiness; you'd do a lot worse than read Metalguru's notes on ECU trim settings here:

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9326

  He's got his running pretty well.  Mine runs not perfect but pretty good these days on a combination of home grown map and some trim tweaks.  

And it's a lot cheaper than swapping parts in the hope that you'll fix it.  The bits I've changed (TPS, TB gasket, crank sensor) I made sure they were actually U/S before I parted with cash but to do that I used an oscilloscope.  The gasket needed changing as part of the TPS process anyway.  I can send you a copy of my map but that on it's own won't fix it, you need to do the trims.  Good luck.

[peds]

The TPS was loaned to me, do you reckon that I would be better off going through the diagnostics on my ECU first? Looking at the trim setings and/or updating the maps?

Like I said, as yet, I don't have a clue how the bike is set up but will be having a look tomorrow.

[Bixxer Bob]

Unless you know the TPS is faulty I'd leave it be.  It's basically a potentiometer in a plastic case.  You know when the volume knob on an old radio crackles as you move it? Well that's caused by dirt or wear on the resistance track that the wiper moves over.  In the case of my TPS, it was making the equivalent of those crackles, but they were confusing the ECU because it wasn't getting a clean signal.  

You'll be looking at the Tune ECU a while before it starts to make any sense, so in your place I'd do the following (assuming your IACV and hosework is in tip top, leak-free condition and the tube connecting the airbox to the ECU is also in good nick and leak-free (DO NOT blow down it, but sucking gently is ok  :lol: ) :

Do the 12 minute tune.  If it works, great, if not continue:

Connect TuneECU
Back up your existing tune (so you can go back to square one...)
Identify which tune you have and make sure it's the right one for your VIN number.
Reload the tune to eliminate any possibility that it's corrupt.

Try it out. If it's still bad, go to Metalguru's note on trims and tweak accordingly.

If it's good, but gradually goes back to jerking over a day or two, disable the O2 sensor and go again.

[peds]

Is the O2 sensor disabled with the TuneECU program or do you have to physically disconnect it?

[Bixxer Bob]

In the ECU map.  If you just disconnect it you'll get the MIL light on and a fault code (unless you fit a bypass resistor but not worth the money).

But don't get ahead of yourself, one step at a time otherwise you'll never get to the bottom of it.

[peds]

No Probs BB, I have no intentions of jumping in with both feet.......slowly, slowly, catchy monkey!!  :D  :D