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Rims suitable for going tubeless...

Started by nickjtc, December 12, 2013, 01:02:31 AM

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nickjtc

Ain't that just a purty sight? Nothing nicer than looking at a freshly mounted tyre. Balancing only took 1/2oz.

Note my secondary workshop, disguised as the living room of a house.

Next question... what pressure to run it at? Any suggestions? I'm thinking 36psi as a start.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

Mustang

it likes closer to 40-42 psi  mo' better :nod
it will reward you with the most even tire wear
get below 40psi prepare for cupping  at about 4k miles :bad

nickjtc

Quote from: Mustang on February 10, 2014, 10:54:24 PMit likes closer to 40-42 psi  mo' better :nod

Thanks for that. Better over than under inflated.

I have this afternoon started the performance with the rear tyre. Fun and games taking the wheel off when I realised that I did not have a 12mmm allen wrench. I have never seen a rear wheel attachment set up like that on Stanley, ever. So I bit the bullet and went to Lordco and bought two half inch drive 12mm sockets. Isn't it wonderful having the right tools for a job.  :love10

The tyre came off with a bit of a struggle. The spokes are tight and the rim is running true. Some of the nipples inside the rim are showing a little corrosion so I will deal with that before moving on the Goop stage
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

iansoady

Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 08:28:10 AM

I have this afternoon started the performance with the rear tyre. Fun and games taking the wheel off when I realised that I did not have a 12mmm allen wrench. I have never seen a rear wheel attachment set up like that on Stanley, ever.

If you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies). By the same token you don't need to (read mustn't) slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain.
Ian.

1931 Sunbeam Model 10
1999 Honda SLR650

nickjtc

Quote from: iansoady on February 11, 2014, 11:27:55 AMIf you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies).

The Triumph manual for Steamers says that the chain has to be loosened (by slackening off the adjusters) to enable the wheel to be moved forward to give enough slack for the wheel to come off...?

So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

fishorak

Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM
Quote from: iansoady on February 11, 2014, 11:27:55 AMIf you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies).

The Triumph manual for Steamers says that the chain has to be loosened (by slackening off the adjusters) to enable the wheel to be moved forward to give enough slack for the wheel to come off...?

So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?

Yes!

John :icon_biggrin:

Mustang

Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM

So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?[/font]
:nod

Sin_Tiger

Bit OT - anyone care to post a photo of the original toolkit so I can see what it and the contents look like, or that a bit too anorak  :icon_confused:
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

Mustang

Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM

The Triumph manual for Steamers says that ..............................................
that book says a lot of things that just are not req'd to do  :ImaPoser

if you have your chain set like it likes , you don't need any more slack , you have plenty .
ps the chain loves at least 40mm free play (when setting on the sidestand )

Mustang

#39
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 11, 2014, 07:43:19 PM
Bit OT - anyone care to post a photo of the original toolkit so I can see what it and the contents look like, or that a bit too anorak  :icon_confused:
what year ? they were different.........................

the top pick is the early kits the bottom was what the 98's came with


ssevy

Quote from: nickjtc on February 10, 2014, 09:09:59 PM
I put one strip of Gorilla tape over the sealed nipples, primarily to protect them from the ravages of tyre mounting as performed by me. Yes, I know that duct tape is a big no-no inside rims, but since there is no chance of moisture getting in I foresee no issues.

Actually, unless you always use an air compressor set up for painting which has the filter to remove moisture, you will be putting moisture into the tire every time you add air. If you have ever drained the tank on an air compressor, you quickly realize that condensation is part of the process. Gorilla tape is good stuff, but if your goal is just to protect your sealing job, silicone self sealing tape might be a better option, as it stretches and only sticks to itself, and is impervious to hot and cold and moisture.
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

nickjtc

Quote from: ssevy on February 11, 2014, 09:21:14 PM
Actually, unless you always use an air compressor set up for painting which has the filter to remove moisture, you will be putting moisture into the tire every time you add air. If you have ever drained the tank on an air compressor, you quickly realize that condensation is part of the process.

Good point. I drain the tank after every use, but as you say there is always the possibility of moisture condensing out.... except in the summer here when the relative humidity is usually around 0%.  :icon_wink: :icon_wink:

The tyre is done, installed and (I hope) good to go. I'll check the pressure again today when I get home from work. So I'll hold off on a different type of 'protector' tape until the next tyre change.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

Sin_Tiger

I agree, self amalgamating rubber electrical tape is probably a better option but it normally only comes in 12mm width, so you would have to go around a few times.

Thanks Mustang, I'll keep my eyes peeled for rocking horses shitting to get a set or even just the spark plug socket  :icon_wink:
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

nickjtc

Just finished the lengthy job of sealing the nipples in the rear wheel. Because of the angle of some of the spokes there is quite a pronounced lip or ridge on one side of the nipple as it sits inside the rim. So it takes a bit more of the sealant to build it up. No problem, just time consuming.

I decided to only use the Goop for the rear since it is much nicer to work with than the Seal All. The final application is curing as we speak so I'll wrap it up and mount the tyre this evening. I'm optimistic that the process will work aok, since the front is still holding air quite nicely.
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

nickjtc

#44
All back together and holding air. Time to do a little electrical stuff (wiring for heated grips and replacing the front signals) and installing a Scottoiler. Roll on Spring!! :thumbsup
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"