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Suspension Lubrication

Started by TR5TRIDER, May 04, 2015, 06:29:19 PM

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TR5TRIDER

Esteemed forum members,

When attempting to grease rear suspension link on my "96 steamer I find that the upper grease nipple on the drag link is inaccessible as the exhaust crossover pipe is located in such a way as to block the grease gun couping. Question: is it necessary to remove both left & right sections containing the crossover or may one side be sufficient to gain access? While in there I plan to change the Zerk fitting from straight to angled in order to gain access w/out removing exhaust. What threads might the Zerk fitting be?

Bert

Mustang

I find that jacking up the ass end and letting the wheel hang sometimes gives just enough room to get a flexible hose on it   :bad

TR5TRIDER

Quote from: Mustang on May 04, 2015, 07:16:40 PM
I find that jacking up the ass end and letting the wheel hang sometimes gives just enough room to get a flexible hose on it   :bad

Mustang,
My bike is on center stand and the rear wheel is clear of the ground by 1/2" and the grease nipple is coyly hiding behind the exhaust crossover. I had  better start taking the exhaust system apart and install an angled zerk fitting. Any information in zerk fitting threads tapered or straight?

Bert

Sin_Tiger

I think it's a 1/8" BSPT or NPTT at a push but I'd have to check that to be sure.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

NeilD

shock mount on my TBS draglink was greased  regularly via the grease point, and still ended up looking like this...

2015-04-30 001 by GUZZINEIL, on Flickr

I think the best way is to remove the bolt and regrease the bearing annually rather than relying on the nipple  :icon_mrgreen:  i think the grease must go hard near the entry point then any fresh grease just gets diverted via the easiest path...

Sin_Tiger

 :iagree unless start of with known good condition and then maintain it, who knits when it was greased prior to you taking ownership.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

TR5TRIDER

Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 05, 2015, 10:56:34 PM
:iagree unless start of with known good condition and then maintain it, who knits when it was greased prior to you taking ownership.
In the case of the upper drag link grease fitting being rendered inaccessible by the exhaust crossover pipe I would think never being lubricated is the likely scenario.

JayDub

Odd! - I greased the suspension linkage on my 95 today, the nipple on the link next to the crossover pipe is a standard straight type and pointed downwards, so no trouble to grease any of them  :icon_scratch:
Either I'm lucky or you're not  :^_^

GavD

 :iagree
Same as mine JD, never had a problem getting the grease gun onto it.
'98 Steamer (Black of course), '18 BMW R NineT Urban G/S

JayDub

I suppose it's possible that the pivot block could be from another model?

Geoff W

Mine was blocked by the exhaust crossover. I fitted a 45 degree nipple to get around the problem, but I do not know the thread,a mate supplied it, he said it was just industry standard fitting.
It\'s ok , this will only take 5 minutes.
96 Pimento Red Steamer.

Beernard

 I pulled the linkage off my 93 today. The shock bearing is completely knackered, with the tube between the bearing and the mounting bolt heavily scored by the bearing needles . The seals are non-existent! Ugly, really. So I ripped out the bolt and tube from my 94 donor bike. The bearing is shot and the tube is absolutely trashed. I wonder if this is a bit of a weak point, given both bearings are stuffed. Anyone else had this experience?
Ripper, woke up again.

GavD

Yep, think it was at approx 30,000 miles.
'98 Steamer (Black of course), '18 BMW R NineT Urban G/S

Sin_Tiger

#13
Yes. Sadly many don't pay enough attention to suspension linkages. With straight bush type you get away with not causing so much damage because the softer metal of the bush and the larger contact area means the harder pins don't get damaged so easily and is a slower process.

The very hard rollers do damage much quicker and more severely when they seize up due to lack of lubrication.

There's nothing inherently wrong with the roller bearing design, arguably it can last a lot longer than a closed bush type but only if it gets lubricated now and again, 'nuff said. Some owners and mechanics, like the PO of your bike and mine, who seem to think grease nipples on suspension are like mens nipples I.e. redundant.
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

Beernard

Thanks, Gav. Jesus, that's pretty early. It seems it is really something to keep an eye on!
Thanks, also to Sin. Nice info. Although I don't reckon my nipples are redundant!!!! In fact.......
BTW, I reckon it is unreal to get quality info from all over the world on this site. Fantastic!!!!!!
Ripper, woke up again.