burring sound

[ChillMan]

My Tiger 2001 has a burring sound at rpm approx 2000-2500. I have located it to the metal plate on the exhaust, that plate that protects the passenger's leg from heat. If I press it slightly, the sound disappears.

My mechanic says it's a hassle to fix because he'd had to remove and remake some stainless steel rivets. I doubt it would take more than 20 minutes but hey I'm not an expert.

The exhaust has a cracking sound when revving down, which someone said means it's a nonfactory one but still Triumph.

I'm thinking I can't be the only one with this burrrrrrrr?

[Sin_Tiger]

Stainless rivets are a but harder to do, don't be tempted to use standard alloy ones, they won't last 5 mins.

It might be worth checking to see if you have any "extra" hooks drilled in the end can.

[Bixxer Bob]

Hooks or holes???

I had this, many moons ago.  The rivets are a bugger to drill out because the tail is left in the centre and is quite hard.  It's worth doing though because I replaced them with self-tapping screws and spire clips ( "U" nuts) so it's easy to whip off to clean behind it.

[ChillMan]

Hehe I knew I wouldn't be the only one.

Drilling out rivets is a bit over my head, I'm afraid. How long time would it take a good Triumph mechanic to do that? I ask because I'd pay him per minute/hour.

What about finding some heat-resistant rubber formed into a wedge which I press in between the two metal parts to stop it from burring?

[Bixxer Bob]

Give the bike shop a miss; go to a light engineering company and look helpless.  Engineers like to show off, like as not they'll drill all three out for you for the price of a drink.  Order a pack of spire clips and some stainless steel self tapping screws and you're good to go.

With any luck they'll do that for you too!

[ChillMan]

Thanks man. I'm sorry but I don't know what a light engineering company is or how to find one. Perhaps it's a translation thing. I did google spire clips, but since I don't know how that protection plate should be fitted in general, I don't see how it would be fitted using such slips and screws.

Looking helpless is going to be easy. 

[motoOzarks]

It's where you go to have lights engineered

[Chris Canning]

I come across this problem most days 'It's an easy job mister' 'In that case why don't do it yourself' errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr 

It's only easy when you know how,it's not about how long it will take it's about how many F ups that person has had to go through to learn what he/she knows that's what you are paying for  :icon_wink:

[ChillMan]

I never heard of a place you go to have lights engineered! Don't you just buy a lamp in a shop and DONE?

Chris Canning, that's funny and true.

[ChillMan]

Does anyone have a photo of how it looks when that heat plate is removed? The service manual is not very clear:

[Mustang]

thats about how it looks................three metal standoffs with a hole in them for the rivet ,welded to the can 

steamer can has 4 .......................

[ChillMan]

There is just a circular hole on top of each, and no way to place stuff inside? I thought one would fit something like these spire thingies inside the "standoff"?
http://www.frost.co.uk/sheet-metal-screws-and-j-nuts-400-pieces.html

[Mustang]

you can
the standoffs are just bent tin (sheet metal)

[ChillMan]

Doesn't cost anything to cost my mechanic for a quote, I guess.

I actually found a shop selling ALL kinds of screws and nuts etc. I can drive there. Which model and dimension of spire clips should I get, and dimensions and head of the screws?

[motoOzarks]

The ones that fit your hole

Can you just kink the shield to stop it from buzzing?