Fork overhaul

[KuzzinKenny]

Stock spring rate is between .58kg/mm and .60kg/mm.  The average sized rider should be running about a .90kg/mm spring in those forks, so the stock ones are very undersized.  This is common with all manufacturers.

ATF works fantastic for fork oil in those forks.  Not only do I use it in my customer's bikes, I run it in my own.

No real way to make the emulator externally adjustable, it moves up and down with the lower damping tube.

Just the answer i was and wasn't lookin for  cos now i need to buy springs 

the suspension guru has spoken  :icon_wink:

cheerz

KK

ps all i can find is progressive springs 

[Sasquatch]

ps all i can find is progressive springs 

Shipping would be a bit spendy, but I can get straight rate springs here in the states.  Start a group buy with some other owners and split the shipping costs...

[Dutch]

For street use I prefer the progressive springs. Slightly softer with the small movements, harder under big movement (e.g. firm braking).

Regarding the ATF, many older bikes state in the manual the fork can be serviced with ATF. It is compairable to fork oil SAE 10. If you like to use different thickness fork oil is available in SAE 5, 7.5, 10, 15 and 20. And probably some more  :icon_wink:

[Chris Canning]

May as well the whole story  ,I've two friends who run a small bike breaking come repair bike shop and some of you will have seen us at the Stafford show with a stand there,well I go most days for a coffee and catch up on gossip,they hand me a new catalogue and say 'You like suspension' 

http://www.yss.co.th/

I trawl through it having never heard of them I see there may be an option for the forks but look in the application list for a 955 Tiger and see there isn't one,undetered I put it into google to see what happens 

http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/yss-pd-triumph-fork-valves--fork-cartridge-emulators-43mm-diameter-forks-30318-p.asp

[Dutch]

I am a YSS dealer, indeed they don't have a shock for the 955, that's why I have a Wilbers on mine. They do have (progressive) fork springs for both spoke and cast wheel Girly.

The emulators are "generic" for ... mm forks. They seem to work fine when the internals are adjusted for the emulators. I have tried them personally in my Yamaha FZ 750 the simple way (spring out, emulator in, spring in, close) and was not impressed.

[KuzzinKenny]

Between a rock and a hard place  again 

I started by loosenin the 2 allen screws at the bottom of the fork legs with the bike weight on them 

all went well untill i try to remove said screws  they just turn along with the damper rod/tube thingy 

now what 

NO im not goin to use the HOT spanner 

KK

[Sasquatch]

Take the fork leg off the bike, remove the spring, dump the oil.  Lock the lower leg in a vice (carefully) using either the lower axle mount or brake mount points.  Use an air impact wrench (rattle gun) with the proper hex head driver and while pulling on the fork slider (like trying to pull it out of the lower tube) nail it with the impact gun.

If you do not have an impact gun then you will need the tool that slips down inside to lock the damping tube in place.

If all of the above fails, bring the forks to a mechanic who has them and have him do it for you.

Sorry, but that is the deal..

[KuzzinKenny]

Cheers for the quick reply Sasquatch 

i kinda thought that would be the way to go after seein what was in there 

so impact wrench it is  now i have to talk me mate into borrowin his cordless one he uses for his racecar (i dont have compressed air)

KK

ps damping tube tool ?? i couldn't find one for an alloy wheel Tigger 

[Chris Canning]

I wouldn't go worrying about the front forks,with some tinkering with quantity and weight their more than good enough to get the job done it's the rear that's the hassle.

[Sin_Tiger]

There is a genuine tool and I recall Clive Woods showed me his homemade version, didn't pay a lot of attention to it unfortunately 

[KuzzinKenny]

I wouldn't go worrying about the front forks,with some tinkering with quantity and weight their more than good enough to get the job done it's the rear that's the hassle.

Now ya tell me  i've already bought the bits  :icon_wink:

KK

[KuzzinKenny]

There is a genuine tool and I recall Clive Woods showed me his homemade version, didn't pay a lot of attention to it unfortunately 

There is a post about a homemade tool on here somewhere and the only thing that i remembered about it was the size O the nut they used (30mm) thankfully that is the most important bit, the size 

i have loads O junk, i mean tools that ive had for yeeeeeaaaaars that predate me socket sets, so i found a  Whitworth Box Spanner that was as near as dam it  so with the help O me trusty file i set about it to get it just under 30mm  the box spanner already had a hole in the side so i found a roll pin that fitted it, then i drilled a hole in a piece O thick flat bar that went inside the box and hammer the roll pin in to join them  add a pair O mole grips to the other end O the flat bar to act as a lever and we now have a damping rod/tube tool 

anyway they're out, so next step is hole drillin 

KK

[Timbox2]

A customer of mine recently bought Andreani Cartridge kits for his Benelli Tre-K, he got them Direct from Italy for about £350, which seems incredibly cheap. Ive checked and unfortunately they dont list anything for the Girlies

[KuzzinKenny]

Oh shit moment  bikes up off the ground and i was checkin to see how much travel the forks have (cast wheel model should be 170mm) so fully extended i get me tape to measure between the top of the mudguard and the bottom of the fairing, yip its 170mm but i fitted an aftermarket horn in there years ago and it sticks down 40mm  so now i gota find somewhere else to put me horn 



KK

ps damper rod holes drilled  now lookin into gettin some springs 

[KuzzinKenny]

This is weird  the racetech site showed 2 types of fork spring for 955i Tiggers.......

FRSP S3732 and FRSP 3755

now they only show FRSP 3755 



KK