This doesn't look good but might explain my clutch issues-looks like water to me

[KuzzinKenny]

That just gave me a thought, what if the thermostat is stuck open 

it won't build any heat up but just circulate the coolant 

KK

[motoOzarks]

think of it as a high speed centrifugal water separator

with its own housing to catch the froth


If it was sweet with antifreeze smell your bearings will tell you soon enough

[benebob]

think of it as a high speed centrifugal water separator

with its own housing to catch the froth


If it was sweet with antifreeze smell your bearings will tell you soon enough

So you don't find it overly odd then?  I didn't taste antifreeze, just nasty oil taste. 

[motoOzarks]

Klingklangs gas tank deal was odd.

As cold as your temps are condensation could freeze causing weird clutch on start up.

Clean it out good and change the oil and ride it and change and check again.  It's all you can do right now.

If it was free moisture, or water, it would settle to the bottom of the oil and stay there.  It would not mix.  Like from a large leak or stream crossing gone wrong.

The emulsified moisture you have has been under pressure and heat and has churned itself into a smoothy.

Clean it out so it doesn't rust stuff and change your filter because it will clog it.   

[Bixxer Bob]

This is totally off the wall, and probably worse case so you can work up from here.

You have a small coolant usage (for instance, mine never uses any).

You have some (but not great) evidence of water in the oil.

It could be condensation due to repeated short runs in the cold, but the two facts above could also be linked ie the frothing is a result of tiny amounts of coolant getting into the oil.

Carrying that hypothesis forward,  where is it coming from???

The coolant isn't blowing out of the overflow tank so one can assume the system isn't being pressurised unduely.  Ergo, it's unlikely the head gasket has gone, at least not between the liner seal and the water jacket.

It is possible that the seal between the liners and the casing has a slight leak but if the head hasn't been off this is very unlikely. 

It's also unlikely for the same reason that the head gasket is leaking, although some older engines are known to weep along the edge of the headgasket when it's very cold.  If it were to be the headgasket, the most likely area is the thin strip seperating the water jacket from the cam chain gallery.

That leaves the water pump.  Again unlikely, but it's possible a seal in the waterpump has failed letting the coolant, under pressure when hot (although nothing like the pressure you get if the head gasket has failed around a liner) get to the oil.

Just my two penneth....   

[JayDub]

Just a thought... I'm not familiar with your model but... does it have an airbox drain... is it clear... could a blockage cause the water to drain of via the crank case breather, into the crank case?

[Bixxer Bob]

Short answer, no.  Stator housing vents to the airbox, oil fumes are taken into the engine.  Other tube goes to the ECU to sense airbox  depression.

[JayDub]

Right, I'll get me coat then! 

[benebob]

I have never had a vehicle that didn't need coolant about once a year.  Simple evaporation out of the overflow would account for the tiny loss  I've had (I did some checking and the liter of coolant came from the old bike meaning it is at least 5 years old and still 1/2 full).  I did run the engine for about 20 minutes on idle thru a couple fan cycles then added a engine flush and let it do its work.  Drained the oil and it looks like a nice brown ale (without the bubbles).  Nothing wrong at all with the oil.  Haven't ridden it yet but will tonight so we shall see what the clutch does. 

[Bixxer Bob]

I have never had a vehicle that didn't need coolant about once a year.  .....

I must just be lucky; we have two cars, a motorhome and three bikes and none of them use oil or coolant.  Cars have 42k miles, 50k miles, 122k miles, bikes have 35k, 38k and 65k miles.

[benebob]

Yeah, none need more than a couple oz to top it off the Tiger and the TVR need the most as their overflow isn't pressurized so you get a bit more evaporation.  I could probably go 3 or 4 years between adding as none ever reach the low mark on the tank, they just aren't all the way up to the High mark.  Bike rode fine last night in a short ride, no clutch issues after the oil change as of yet we shall see.

[JoeDirt]

Benebob,

Please do an oil change check your stator housing for you put it all back together... oil filter too.

I don't want you offering up banana smoothies to people after your next ride.

~JD

[benebob]

Benebob,

Please do an oil change check your stator housing for you put it all back together... oil filter too.

I don't want you offering up banana smoothies to people after your next ride.

~JD

Already done on the oil change did that Sunday.  Did a chemical flush and refill with a new filter.  Oil looked just fine.  Figure I'l rid it a bit and see what it does at this point.

[benebob]

Well tonight the hard shifting returned.   Only took a 1/4 of a tank of gas.  Coolant level is right where it was.  Now I do have a question regarding sticky clutches.  So what happens if y'all start your bike in gear with the clutch lever pulled all the way in.  Mine kinda moves a bit forward but not violently.  Just trying to determine if that is normal or not.  Has anybody used one of the advance auto parts coolant pressure testers on their tiger?  Just curious if the fittings fit the tiger cap mount.

[Bixxer Bob]

I have no lurching on starter with the clutch pulled so you seem to still have a problem.

Never used one of those pressure testers, but the Tiger is the same physical size as many modern cars so should do, but you could email them to check.