Installation of the new SH847 Reg./Rec

[VABird]

According to Jack at RoadsterCycle.com, The new Shindengen SH847 Regulator/Rectifier supersedes the SH775 for reasons I'll let him explain if you need that.  It's a bit longer, wider and thicker than the stock R/R , yet still fits in the stock location. He talked with me a good while about my needs and application. He knows his stuff, and he did not try to hurry me off the phone to move on to the next thing. Very happy with the customer service. The price shipped to me was just under $210 including the wiring harness, which may sound like a lot, but the only thing I'd hate more than spending too much for a part is spending too little and having the same problem all over again in 6 months. I bought the Rick's stator from Parts Giant; $115 shipped. $325 for an all new charging system; not too bad if it lasts (a lot) longer than the original.
     So let's begin with the installation of the stator. Mine was shorted across all 3 wires to ground; definitely dead. I won't get into that too much as it's covered in other threads. Once the cover is off, it's a simple remove & replace; 3 bolts and a wire clamp. (You'll need a new gasket) It came with a stock connector, but Rick's advised removing it and soldering the wires directly to the R/R (yellow) wires with supplied connectors to avoid the potential of the commonly corroded connector. I did this. Don't try crimp connectors. Solder them.

   Now, for the SH847. You will not have to make new bracket(s) to mount it, but will have to modify the stock brackets a bit by drilling one extra hole in each. It's a bit bigger than the stock unit, but still fits nicely in the stock location. Both the lower and upper mounting brackets will need another hole drilled in them and you'll need two M6 flat washers and two M6-1.0 locknuts to secure the SH847 to the mounts. You can reuse the stock bolts. See photos. I mounted it with the plugs in the back to further protect it from rainwater, but not sure yet if chain grunge will be an issue. I may fabricate a shroud as a precaution.
   
   The wire  harness that comes with the SH847 from RoadsterCycle.com is too long for this location, and in fairness, Jack asked me to tell him how long I wanted them, but at the time, the bike was all apart and I wasn't sure that it'd fit in the stock location, so didn't want to cut it short. IF YOU DO MOUNT IT IN STOCK LOCATION,  tell him you want 12" from plug to the battery connectors for both wires. You'll have some excess with these lengths, but it'll leave room for battery connector replacements etc. in the future. I cut off about 18" from each. These measurements will keep you from having to cut and solder these two wires in addition to the ones from the stator. Jack will just make the wires the length you ask, so it's ready when you get it.

   As you see in the final photo, is provides a suitable 14.6 volts at idle with bright (LED) lights on. 14.7 Volts while riding.

[Timbox2]

Good job mate, just one question. are you still going through the bikes wiring to the battery or is it direct to battery ala the Sasquatch mod talked about?

[Chris Canning]

Hmmm I quite like that just the usual hassle of getting stuff from the States.

[VABird]

Good job mate, just one question. are you still going through the bikes wiring to the battery or is it direct to battery ala the Sasquatch mod talked about?

The harness that comes from RoadsterCycle.com is soldered directly to the stator on one side (top plug in 3rd pic first post).
The bottom plug goes through the supplied circuit breaker directly to the battery.
The pic shows where I cut and soldered the wires since I did not have the proper size battery terminal connectors, but if you tell RoadsterCycle that you want 12" leads, you would not have to do that.
The plug that went to the stock R/R is taped off and not used. 

[Timbox2]

Ah ok, so yeah, 2 jobs in one so to speak, and better than introducing an adaptor harness which I know some have done

[Tiger-G]

I'm looking at buying a SH847, so appreciate the info on here.

If you're still kicking about VABird, how is it performing ??

[London_Phil]

This is info I've posted before, its not mine, but collected from different sources.
May be useful

Shindengen SH847
MOSFET Shunt R/R on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA Recently superseded by FH020
The MOSFET R/R are excellent replacement choice on Bike models that suffer from chronic R/R failures.
However, if the model generally has a high incidence of Stator failure, another (better) consideration might be to go a Series Regulator.
Looks like someone at Triumph was paying attention - the latest fix for the 675 Street Triple and Daytona is .............. a Shindengen FH012 MOSFET R/R
Hre's suggestion for pretty simple plug n play upgrade for most Triumph models:
pretty much all the Triumph range (except for most recent) all use essentially the same SCR R/R with the same configuration of connectors.

Now - since the problems with the Street Triple & Daytona 675, Triumph has released an upgrade kit which comprises of an FH012 Model R/R, Adapter Cable & Bracket

But instead of buying complete kit from Triumph, you could just buy the adapter cables (Triumph calls it Link Lead) - T2500676 - that is only about $10 USD - ridiculously inexpensive for what it is!

Then you can buy your own R/R - used if you can find one - or even a new Yamaha FH012 is going to be much cheaper than the Triumph R/R part itself - but the Triumph cable makes it plug n play
Yamaha R/R part number is 1D7-81960-00-00
This adapter cable will also work with the ZX10/ZX14 FH010 model R/R which you may also include if you are searching for used.

And also works for the new SH775 Series R/R from Shindengen

I've just become aware of an alternative for R/R replacement which would be ideal for the Twins and possibly also the Triples:

It does NOT appear to be suited for the high rpm 4-cylinder Triumph 600-4's (TT600, Speed4, Daytona 600/650) - at high rpm it loses regulation on those bikes.
(However see further down this thread for details on the SH847 Series R/R which has been proven successful on those models)

It is made by Shindengen and has the exact same Form Factor as the FH012/020 series MOSFET Rectifier/Regulator that has enjoyed great acclaim & success.
A couple of things to note - it has lower current spec than the FH012/020, however still plenty adequate for the Twins (the FHO12/020 is actually way overkiil re current rating requirement anyway for the Twins); it is not MOSFET but SCR.

Wait I hear you cry - "you have been espousing the benefits of MOSFET regarding the reliability of these units, why are you now suggesting a replacement SCR type?"

Here is the SIGNIFICANT difference - this new R/R is SERIES - not SHUNT!!

Why is that of benefit?
The difference between Series & Shunt is that:

Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.

Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode.

This particular unit is a Shindengen SH775 regulator and is used on Polaris models.
It is VERY inexpensive - brand new -
e.g. $73 shipped!!!! ($60 & change plus shipping)
http://polarisparts123.com/partnumber-search/ (enter 4012941)

Polaris REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C for 2011 Polaris R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI 4012941
The Shindengen designation numbers on it are SH847AA - OEM Suzuki Part Number 32800-31J00

[Tiger-G]

This is info I've posted before, its not mine, but collected from different sources.
May be useful

Shindengen SH847
MOSFET Shunt R/R on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA Recently superseded by FH020
The MOSFET R/R are excellent replacement choice on Bike models that suffer from chronic R/R failures.
However, if the model generally has a high incidence of Stator failure, another (better) consideration might be to go a Series Regulator.
Looks like someone at Triumph was paying attention - the latest fix for the 675 Street Triple and Daytona is .............. a Shindengen FH012 MOSFET R/R
Hre's suggestion for pretty simple plug n play upgrade for most Triumph models:
pretty much all the Triumph range (except for most recent) all use essentially the same SCR R/R with the same configuration of connectors.

Now - since the problems with the Street Triple & Daytona 675, Triumph has released an upgrade kit which comprises of an FH012 Model R/R, Adapter Cable & Bracket

But instead of buying complete kit from Triumph, you could just buy the adapter cables (Triumph calls it Link Lead) - T2500676 - that is only about $10 USD - ridiculously inexpensive for what it is!

Then you can buy your own R/R - used if you can find one - or even a new Yamaha FH012 is going to be much cheaper than the Triumph R/R part itself - but the Triumph cable makes it plug n play
Yamaha R/R part number is 1D7-81960-00-00
This adapter cable will also work with the ZX10/ZX14 FH010 model R/R which you may also include if you are searching for used.

And also works for the new SH775 Series R/R from Shindengen

I've just become aware of an alternative for R/R replacement which would be ideal for the Twins and possibly also the Triples:

It does NOT appear to be suited for the high rpm 4-cylinder Triumph 600-4's (TT600, Speed4, Daytona 600/650) - at high rpm it loses regulation on those bikes.
(However see further down this thread for details on the SH847 Series R/R which has been proven successful on those models)

It is made by Shindengen and has the exact same Form Factor as the FH012/020 series MOSFET Rectifier/Regulator that has enjoyed great acclaim & success.
A couple of things to note - it has lower current spec than the FH012/020, however still plenty adequate for the Twins (the FHO12/020 is actually way overkiil re current rating requirement anyway for the Twins); it is not MOSFET but SCR.

Wait I hear you cry - "you have been espousing the benefits of MOSFET regarding the reliability of these units, why are you now suggesting a replacement SCR type?"

Here is the SIGNIFICANT difference - this new R/R is SERIES - not SHUNT!!

Why is that of benefit?
The difference between Series & Shunt is that:

Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.

Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode.

This particular unit is a Shindengen SH775 regulator and is used on Polaris models.
It is VERY inexpensive - brand new -
e.g. $73 shipped!!!! ($60 & change plus shipping)
http://polarisparts123.com/partnumber-search/ (enter 4012941)

Polaris REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C for 2011 Polaris R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI 4012941
The Shindengen designation numbers on it are SH847AA - OEM Suzuki Part Number 32800-31J00

Thanks for that  . A pain the arse trying to put my 51 year old brain in gear sorting electrical issues out when I'm not electrically minded, but will get there - sloooowly !!

[Tiger-G]

Anyone know if the Triumph link lead (T2500676) fits directly onto the SH847 ??

[HockleyBoy]

Pretty sure it does

[Timbox2]

IM Sure it does too, the FH020 and SH847 seem to have the same connectors

[Tiger-G]

Just a quick update for anyone reading this thread.....

The newer versions of the SH847 have longer bolt holes, so no need to drill the frame or bracket any more. Which is a shame really, as I'd already drilled my new holes, as per this thread, before I got it...Doh !!   

And.....the Triumph link lead (T2500676) does indeed fit straight on to the SH847.

I fitted my SH847 through the Triumph link lead and started the engine, I got a steady 13.8V from tickover right through the rev range. However, as the engine got up to operating temp, the voltage dropped to 12.9V on tickover ?? With a few revs on though, it was back up to 13.8V ??

I'm still a bit disappointed with the voltage, as I was expecting it to be up in the 14 volts. I've got a spare connector, so may try doing the Sasquatch fix directly to the battery, see if that makes a difference ??


I just wanted to say a big thank you to VABird and everyone else who helped me with my voltage issues. It's great to see that people are willing to take the time to help others out - THANKS !!   


Edit: Just as a quick experiment to prove the theory, I took the output connector off the rectifier and wired a couple of wires directly to the battery. I got 14.2V on tickover, dropping to 14.1V throughout the rest of the rev range. Just wondering if it's worth ditching the link lead connector to go straight to the battery for the sake of .4V ??

[mark4]

Out of interest Tiger-G, can I ask where you bought the SH847 in the end? I'm thinking of getting one too, but they only seem to be over in the U.S.

Thanks

mark

[Tiger-G]

Out of interest Tiger-G, can I ask where you bought the SH847 in the end? I'm thinking of getting one too, but they only seem to be over in the U.S.

Thanks

mark

Hi mate,

The only place I could find them in Europe was from MTP-Racing in Germany. Although pricey (£144), I needed it, it was well packaged and the delivery was quick:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Voltage-Regulator-Langsregler-SH847AA-Incl-Adapter-Connector/183354326236?epid=4007161931&hash=item2ab0c4fcdc:g:O7kAAOSwj~dZ38l7

[VABird]

I'm looking at buying a SH847, so appreciate the info on here.

If you're still kicking about VABird, how is it performing ??

Working perfectly.