Possible Charging Fault?

[Sidk]

Well as per my previous thread about not Starting or Charging. http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,16383.0.html
as per the advise given I replaced the battery on Friday with a new one, starts up and runs great.  However today, i thought hmmm maybe i should put a volt meter to it again and see how things are doing..

as per Sin tiger's advise, i measured the voltage again on the battery (12.7) on Ignition (12.4) at 2500 RPM's (12.3) so it looks like the battery is not being charged. I measured 3 times to be sure i wasn't doing something wrong. Last week at 2500 RPMS the voltmeter was showing 14.7V.   

any suggestions on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[London_Phil]

Quick response before I'm missed from a family meal...
YMMV as they say.
Check Alternator output at Alternator, not battery.

Check the Earth connection for Alternator, and the connector from the Alternator to the loom, which has the voltage sense line and the power feed back to the battery.
Latter is prone to heat related failure.
The system isn't perfect, if I remember, the charging system runs via the fuses, and if the connections are poor, either bad fuse connection, or the main fuse box connector, the system will be intermittent at best.
I seem to recall some mods, where the Alternator connector is replaced for a better one, and the wiring is taken straight back to the battery, not through the convoluted wiring loom.

Good luck

[davetheworv]

simple i know but check your battery connections are tight and clean

[Sidk]

Quick response before I'm missed from a family meal...
YMMV as they say.
Check Alternator output at Alternator, not battery.

Check the Earth connection for Alternator, and the connector from the Alternator to the loom, which has the voltage sense line and the power feed back to the battery.
Latter is prone to heat related failure.
The system isn't perfect, if I remember, the charging system runs via the fuses, and if the connections are poor, either bad fuse connection, or the main fuse box connector, the system will be intermittent at best.
I seem to recall some mods, where the Alternator connector is replaced for a better one, and the wiring is taken straight back to the battery, not through the convoluted wiring loom.

Good luck

Thanks for this, certainly points me in the right direction, hopefully i will get a chance to have a look at this weekend.  when i Get back fro Malta

simple i know but check your battery connections are tight and clean

Thanks Dave, its the first thing i did when i replaced the battery, cleaned up the connectors and made sure they were screwed on nice and tight

[Sin_Tiger]

What Phil said  The alternator output runs straight through the main 30 Amp fuse to the battery, so it's always live all the way back to the alternator even with the ignition switched off.

The fuse box gets neglected tucked under the rear cowl and a surprising amount of cr@p gets past the mudguard considering how substantial it is. Worth taking a bit of time measuring at the alternator connector (usually just tucked in above the alternator. If there's any more than 0.3V difference between there and at the battery, invest some time taking the cowl off and giving the fuse box a going over with a liberal dose of my favourite Dielectric grease. 

[JayDub]

with a liberal dose of my favourite Dielectric grease. 

Its true ... he even fries his haggis in the stuff 

[threepot]

ST,can you give a brief insight on Dialectric Grease. How and where to use etc? I'm a bit confused! Just done a search,and It states that it's a poor conductor ,but a good supporter of electrostatic field? I've been using 'Corrosion Block' on my connector blocks etc. Made by ACF 50. Is this suitable?

[Sin_Tiger]

Correct, the idea is you can slap it on just about anywhere and there won't be any conductivity across conductors. It's stable and shouldn't dry out appreciably, won't affect insulation materials, plastics or rubber so perfect for multi plugs. If you pull apart any multi plug on a Triumph loom made since 2007, possibly even before that, you'll find it full of the stuff. Essentially it's a more specialised vaseline.

ACF50 won't do any harm but it's a liquid so you can't pack it into plug cavities, I can't vouch for others except XCP corrosion blocker which I verified with the makers that it's similarly inert and safe for rubber and plastics, it does dry up but never entirely and remains slightly tacky (that means it can collect dust and grit) but performs similarly to ACF, better if the makers claims ate to be believed  (it's made in Scotland  :icon_wink:).

Certainly do not use copper or aluminium based greases, there's a clue in the name there