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Pre-Air Filter???

Started by JetdocX, April 25, 2008, 05:43:30 AM

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nightrunner

I suppose bacon grease would work.  Use what ya got.  :lol:

Seriously, I put a thin layer of wheel bearing grease on both sets of boots on the carbs.  Carb and airbox removal is pretty easy now, and it actually helps form an air-tight seal when the clamps are tightened down.
Scott

Seeking adventure and peril

Mustang

after you remove and replace carbs enuff you can do it with your eyes closed and half asleep , just takes a lot of practice  :ImaPoser

JetdocX

Quote from: "Mustang"after you remove and replace carbs enuff you can do it with your eyes closed and half asleep , just takes a lot of practice  :ImaPoser

There's really nothing funny about the above post. :lol:

Can't wait to do it again today!  Yay! :evil:
From parts unknown.

MontanaBBQ

Remove stock airbox - install 3 pod filters - been there and done that!  There is a fair amount of info over at triumphrat.net - seems like quite a few of the T-bird and Legend triple guys have gone this route.  

I too had my fill of the stock airbox setup.  I can't believe they put the intake snorkel directly above the rear wheel!  

Kevin (great guy - too bad he's gone) at Baxter Cycle sold me the goods to convert to 3 individual K&N's plus a Factory Pro jet kit.  He had done the same on his personal bike and was able to walk me through it.  After 13,000 + miles, I guess I can say it works OK.  Is it better, easier, worth the money?  I don't have a solid answer - probably not.  The pod filters are such a tight fit, I don't see any way to clean/service them without removing the carbs again.  It seems darn near impossible to pull the pods off and reinstall them properly with the carbs on the bike - it is just too tight in there.  I found the jetting was pretty straight forward, but I've never dyno tested my bike to really verify any gains.  It sure adds some intake growl at WOT.  Highway mileage stayed about the same.  I did pick up a little surge at 4K RPM, but not enough to really bother me.  It made the bike a bit slower to come off choke - especially when it's wintery cold.  I'm sure a better mechanic than me could sort it out further and make it all worth while.  I can provide filter / jet kit p/n's if desired, and the base line jetting I used if you desire.

Thanks,
Doug B.
Billings, Montana, USA

JetdocX

Thanks, Doug, but I think I'm going to slide a couple of Uni filters over both intake irbox inlets, tape one inlet closed before doing so.

When that one clogs, three screws gain access to the other inlet to open it up.

I'll post some pics when I get my bike back.
From parts unknown.

JetdocX

Here's what I ended up with.  I bought a couple of Uni dual stage air filters with a 2 1/4 " IIRC throat.

I removed the outer foam filter due to lack of clearance.  Then I oiled them down and installed them right on the aft airboxes in place of the ducts.



They fit and do not burn up (so far) on the exhaust.  (fingers crossed).

Picture of the left side:


I was planning on blocking off the right airbox for use as a spare when the left filter clogged along the dusty trail.  I ended up trying it with both airboxes open.

I'm pretty sure I just earned a few more ponies!   :D  It sure runs great up here at 4500 feet.  I'll be taking it down to sea level next week for some more testing.  I'm bringing gorilla tape to restrict the right airbox should the bike start running like crap. :evil:
From parts unknown.

Mustang

maybe the foam offers just enough restriction so it still runs good !

What I found out a long time ago was with the right snorkel open as well as the left the bike ran good up until about 4500 rpm then she was starvin for fuel , and I mean starvin as in dyin did not even want to run
you will need bigger main jets if the foam doesn't offer enough restriction

you might have to duct tape  your bunghole  :ImaPoser

JetdocX

The fun now starts around 4500 and the rev counter might as well be a fun meter all the way up to the limiter.  

I think my carbs are jetted larger, otherwise this would not work.  Keep in mind its about 90 degrees and 4500 feet which puts the density altitude up around 8000 feet.

I regularly carry Gorilla tape. :lol:   Not for my bunghole though.  I don't like the way it pulls the hair off if it needs to be removed :shock:
From parts unknown.

JetdocX

Update:  Spent last week and weekend at oe very near sea level.  It pulls even harder down where the air is not so rare.  I'm happier than a two-dicked dog. :D  :D  :D

Still smells a tiny bit rich at idle/stoplights, but I am back up to 40 and some change MPG.  And that's mostly slab riding 80+ mph.  

After the valve job, mileage was low (35 or so) so I hope to see it get even better. :wink:
From parts unknown.

Mustang

Quote from: "JetdocX"Update:  Spent last week and weekend at oe very near sea level.  It pulls even harder down where the air is not so rare.  I'm happier than a two-dicked dog. :D  :D  :D

Still smells a tiny bit rich at idle/stoplights, but I am back up to 40 and some change MPG.  And that's mostly slab riding 80+ mph.  

After the valve job, mileage was low (35 or so) so I hope to see it get even better. :wink:
Great isn't it I live at 400 ft elev. all the time
and I think Mudhen is at sea level  :shock:  well close enuff anyway

40's is pretty damn good for 80 mph slab running
two lane 50-60 mph should see you with 50+ mpg
I think I got 340 miles on a tankful once , mind you it was filled right to the rim , and ran almost to the bottom