YAPI - noobie

[MIMbox]

Welcome, and good luck with your project.

[Bixxer Bob]

Hi Bruce, looking foward to seeing how you get on with it, good luck mate....

Where are you in the UK?, I have a large garage with compressor, etc,etc... that you're quite welcome to use if you're anywhere near me..... as is anyone else on this site who wants somewhere to work... dry, lots of tools, coffee, micky taking, etc etc  :lol:

Ditto, if you're close enough I'm happy to come round, drink your tea and add a healthy dose of micky-taking :lol:

35 yrs in RAF workshops have made me fairly handy with tools as well

[BruKen]

Wow. Thanks for all the warm welcomes and encouragement guys :D

That is a very kind offer to use your garage too Geoff and you too Bob!. I am rather particular about my own tools so can really appreciate the generosity. As it is I am in the North West in Lymm, just a stones throw from the Vincent motorcycle barn....ahem factory. You wouldn't believe that such a prestigious brand has such a humble shed. Fabulous place to gawk through though. As it is, I have an adequate tool collection that will see me through the job but the offer of coffee and mick taking I will take up soon.

Sin-Tiger....ah ha! OK I had always heated the bolt up and tried to undo it hot. As you can see below, this bolt has driven me nuts and I now have the added woe of having a tip of the torque bit firmly stuck in. I have blisters on my tongue from sheer stress and frustration  :lol:




Anyway I had loosened the lump this weekend but was struggling to get it out the frame. My boy is too young to help there so had to rope in a few friends to try and get it out. We struggled for a while until we worked out that it cant drop out but has to be lifted and then twisted out. That is a new one for me.





I still cant believe I cut the front sprocket nut off. I should have come here first :oops:



I still cant believe you have to part dismantle the engine to drop her. Being a Saffer and not an Englishman I have written this off as typical Brit eccentricity :?



Well. We wait for the weekend now when we will degrease, paint strip and spot blast the block in readiness.

[BruKen]

Welcome, I take my hat off to you, that'll be my "You bought that and are spending how much rebuilding it" hat.

Dont tell my Missus OK! She still hasn't forgiven me for buying a TIG welder so I could make my own dodgy ali panniers after she found you could buy el cheapo's for just £400 for a pair. Every year when BOC sends the Argon bottle rental charge we go through a very special anniversary when she off loads steam and I get none. :roll:

That was when I rebuilt this honey






Did you know cutting 5251 ali sheet with a plasma torch was a bad idea? I didn't

and as you can see my home made sheet metal bender worked a treat but now blights the driveway much to Madams ire.





my panniers are on the left here. Still looking for a decent pipe bender 2 years later to make a nice frame :oops:  Madame restricted my budget and square tube has too much flex and fatigue issues




but I digress.

[ArcticTiger]

I am sure you will have that Tiger purring pretty soon!
 
And it seems like its the same thing with this "new" Triumphs, as with the old ones. By owning one, you are becoming a very skilled mechanic in a year or so.

[Bixxer Bob]

Seeing you have a decent welding rig, and since having the tip of the torx bit stuck in the bolt head is going to make it VERY difficult to drill, I'd get a bit of steel bar the same dia as the bolt head, chamfer the end to give you plenty of undercut, then weld it to the bolt head.  Should give you much more purchase.  Obviously, do something useful to the other end so you can get a grip on it - hex or similar, and clean up the bolt head before you weld it on....

[BruKen]

Yup, that is the last resort plan at present. The only thing holding me back is that I'd only safely be able to weld one third of the bolt head. A Tig weld seam is great for working on because it is usually softer than the surrounding metals. However this and the fact that there is not enough available surface area to weld to safely makes me a bit reluctant until all other avenues are exhausted, as I dont think the weld will be big enough to hold if I am already breaking tools on the bolt.

[coachgeo]

Would it give you better weld to weld a bolt to original stuck one.... head to head...  screw a nut onto the installed bolt and weld the threads next to the nut so it cant spin? Cut bolt so you don't need a deep socket.

Before trying to remove it.... soak it in penetrant repeatedly

[Geoff D]

aarrgghh Bruce, is that a 3AJ Tenere you got there???? I've been looking for
one as as a project for ages now  :shock:

[BruKen]

It is indeed a 3AJ Geoff. A 88 blue one but I didn't care for the blue colour scheme so did it in British Racing Green and replaced all the plastic bits with fibre glass using the original plastic bits as a plug. They were cracked and perished anyway.

If you are interested I have been toying with the idea of selling her to make room. She is in good nick as the restore was three years ago. Engine is mint. The rest is  good not mint. I fitted a kickstart to her and have spare tanks, carbs and bits. It would be a good project to restore to original because you know the bike is sound. Well it will be next week when I get a new regulator. It is on the way out and will flatten the battery (0.05Amp draw). If you are interested, give us a shout.

[BruKen]

Would it give you better weld to weld a bolt to original stuck one.... head to head...  screw a nut onto the installed bolt and weld the threads next to the nut so it cant spin? Cut bolt so you don't need a deep socket.

Before trying to remove it.... soak it in penetrant repeatedly

Yep, that might just work better, I might also end up just tearing the head off the stuck bolt due to the heat tempering of the weld.

I managed to get the broken bit head out earlier and promptly broke another it its place. The punch - chisel deal deformed the head but didn't budge it. I think welding may end up being the answer but I am real loathe to use up my last option. Kinda like the aforementioned sprocket nut fiasco. If the weld doesn't work I am back to the drill scenario and based on the length of the HT bolt you just know the drill bit will wander.

[Mustang]

If you use an 8mm drill bit and just drill the head off the 8mm bolt I am betting that the rest of the bolt can be easily removed once the tension of capturing the alternator is released . and with the alternator removed there should be enough of the shaft sticking out proud of the case to simply unscrew it . a lot of times it will come out with nothing more than your fingertips , worst case it will need a pair of locking pliers (vice grips)

[BruKen]

You may well be right Mustang. Certainly that is true for steel into steel bolts. This one I believe has corroded in and as I said before I doubt then a stud extractor (vice grips? You heathen :) )will work. Remember guys this is breaking the very tool designed to remove it. The tool is not breaking it which is the normal state of affairs.

My heavy duty stud extractor. I bought this in anticipation for doing just as you said and of course the exhaust studs

[Geoff D]

If you are interested I have been toying with the idea of selling her to make room. She is in good nick as the restore was three years ago. Engine is mint. The rest is  good not mint. I fitted a kickstart to her and have spare tanks, carbs and bits. It would be a good project to restore to original because you know the bike is sound. Well it will be next week when I get a new regulator. It is on the way out and will flatten the battery (0.05Amp draw). If you are interested, give us a shout.

I am interested  :lol:  Actually just been & bought a brand new 660 Tenere tonight, haven't got it yet, pick it up in a week or two.

If you are sure, pm me your details, will ring you & maybe pop over easter week if you're around.

[BruKen]

Hi Geoff. PM sent... I think. Had a bit of trouble.