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Throttle Position stuck at 3. BIG issue...

Started by Danny955i, May 06, 2011, 04:49:45 AM

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Danny955i

So, I've been fiddling with my tune settings forever...

No matter what I do... (I've even REMOVED the throttle cable)... TuneECU says my throttle position is at 3. I've reset TPS a ton, (it's a BRAND new sensor) and all that jazz.

Still.. 3.

What could be causing this? Something physically limiting the butterflies from shutting completely? Could the balancing screws cause this? Is there a tab I can bend? Or is this indicative of a vacuum leak?

metalguru

First thing to check is when you reset TPS via tuneEcu is wheather the value rises from about 0.2 after reset at idle to 3. The VOLTAGE at TPS should not rise above .66 from memory, (manual will confirm) if it is more than .66 then suspect TPS as faulty. While you are there have a look at the flexys from IACV to manifold pipes. I replaced mine as a matter of course as they were not the tightest on the manifold stubs. I replaced them with 6mm silicone vacuum hose (albeit red) that was cheap on the net, rebalanced TBs and running fine. The popping could be a couple of things, a small leak on the exhaust usually where the can or link pipe join, reseal with exhaust assembly paste, or just a small amount of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I still have a small amount of popping usually one pop if I try really hard and it is hardly detectable. Setting up by nose and ear is very tedious but success is not far away as it took me a lot of trial and error before it came right with the best thing the time is free to dabble instead of paying a stealer every time. By the way if you are useing TuneECU there is no need for 12min reset just let it idle for a few mins (typially about 1-2) till the TPS signal is trimmed by the ECU, you can see it do this.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Danny955i

Voltage is at .57v, so it's not the TPS.

When I had the throttles off to change the TPS, there was a weird color around the butterflies, like a greenish color. I cleaned the throttle bodies out with carb cleaner and a rag and it took care of it... but the butterflies didn't lay 100% flat when fully closed, but I could not see any light passing around them before install.

So they snap shut just fine.

The vacuum hoses leading from the IACV to the throttles were quite loose on the throttles themselves, so this could be suspect as well, I'll have to get new vacuum hose regardless.

Lastly, I did reset the TPS 3 times in a row last time, and I got the number to go from 3 to 2. But after idling it popped back up to 3 again.

So who knows.

metalguru

OK TPS is good, it must be one of those strange things we are finding as more people post their settings, mine goes down to .2 and then after idling goes up to 2.2 so perhaps this is normal. The IACV pipes sound a bit suspect as although it is only a small vacuum created the smallest leak seems to send the ECU to oblivion. 6mm silicone from ebay sorted it. The problem I have is I ride every day and try to make the engine perform just right so keep altering settings, and then find something else is not quite as it should be but getting very close now to good running. Still think that 3 carbs off a R1 or similar would cure alot of probs! Has the battery voltage come up to above 13V at least?
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Danny955i

The voltage is normally around 14.3V when fully charged. It was pretty run down the day I posted the stats.

Me-thinks the hoses are going to be changed post-haste.

Also, I ride mine every day... and I'm not gentile most of the time, it's a lot of high-speed highway riding I'm at about 4500rpm at about 65-70mph... So, when I come to off ramps and back roads, I normally keep high-revs in 2nd or 3rd gear... equating to 50-70mph depending.

So, I get a lot of the pops coming down off-ramps from 60mph in 2nd gear.

Basically 8000rpm to 4000rpm is OK, then once 3500 hits the gurgles and popping starts. Maybe one or two good bangs at 5000rpm and 4500rpm... but it's rare.

ChazzyB

Quote from: "Danny955i"Basically 8000rpm to 4000rpm is OK, then once 3500 hits the gurgles and popping starts.

3500 downwards - that's where closed loop mode is active, innit? I suspect if you dial closed loop out in the fuel map, the popping and banging may well go too.
Charles
______________________
2008 Tiger 1050
2006 Aprilia Pegaso Strada
1972 BSA B25FS Fleetstar
1971 BSA A65L Lightning
1953 AJS 18S

iansoady

Quote from: "ChazzyB"
Quote from: "Danny955i"Basically 8000rpm to 4000rpm is OK, then once 3500 hits the gurgles and popping starts.

3500 downwards - that's where closed loop mode is active, innit? I suspect if you dial closed loop out in the fuel map, the popping and banging may well go too.

That's what I did with mine and it completely cured the surging. I set the A/F to around 13.5 - 14 in that region.
Ian.

1931 Sunbeam Model 10
1999 Honda SLR650

Bixxer Bob

Did you sort it Danny?  I've been away so am still catching up.... :D

For info, I'm running a new map which is looking very promising, very friendly at low revs on and off throttle, picks up nice out of corners and is quite smooth ie less vibey; tickover is good too.  I set it up with a CO meter so it should be good emmissions-wise.  It doesn't pull quite as hard as some tunes I've tried and I don't know what the fuel consumption is like yet, but I've a 500 mile run coming up next week so I'll know better then.  If it works out, I'll post it for download, along with stepper settings, fuel trim settings etc etc.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

lucifer

Quote from: "Bixxer Bob"Did you sort it Danny?  I've been away so am still catching up.... :D

For info, I'm running a new map which is looking very promising, very friendly at low revs on and off throttle, picks up nice out of corners and is quite smooth ie less vibey; tickover is good too.  I set it up with a CO meter so it should be good emmissions-wise.  It doesn't pull quite as hard as some tunes I've tried and I don't know what the fuel consumption is like yet, but I've a 500 mile run coming up next week so I'll know better then.  If it works out, I'll post it for download, along with stepper settings, fuel trim settings etc etc.

My first post but it is by way of a thank you to Bixxer. I have installed this tune and can only say it is the best my 03 tiger has ever run.

Many thanks
Chris.

Bixxer Bob

Awh shucks... :oops:

Glad to help! :wink:
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Danny955i

Well... couple things.

Reset the TPS while the bike is OFF and it went down to 0.2, then started the bike and it goes up to about 3. So that's normal. I think it's all set.

I did replace the vacuum lines... but, I am kind of an idiot.

You'll get a kick out of this.

Because I thought that the 3 TPS reading meant that there was too much strain on the throttle bodies at 0% throttle, I bent the tab on the throttle block to allow them to close more.

Now it stalls when I blip the throttle, come to a stop, or... even try to start the bike...

SOOOO... now I have to rip apart the bike again and bend that tab back to normal.


Curious note here.... when I bent the tab to allow the butterflies to close MORE, my TPS reading went up to a 3.9 at idle (when it did idle).

I did manage to go take it for a quick ride... (being cautious not to let the idle drop too far at stops) and it ran COMPLETELY different. Much smoother, less popping... so I think the vacuum lines were a big factor.

So... no more being stupid. Going to fix that and hope for the best!

Cheers!