Leaking oil from oilcanister.

[Persson]

Hi fellows,

I had my gas tank off for some tinkering. When I lifted it back on to the bike, I  had to nudge an oilhose that was in the way, the one running from the oilcanister below the gastank - to the rear shock absorber.
-When I moved the hose out of the way, some oil seeped out from the orange-marked area.
Exactly that marked place, not from the adjustment screw or anywhere else.
I got the feeling that the oil came from the space between the outer housing, and whatever is inside.
All parts, like the banjo and everything around surrounding that place is completely dry.

I´d say the amount was about a teaspoon.
After I dried it off, there was no more coming.
However, I have not used the bike since, so I have no idea if it will start again when I ride it.

And another thing, when I jiggle the red marked part, its loose. It´s not like it is going to come out or anything, but it feels like it is mounted in a rubber bushing or something.

Is it supposed to feel like that?

Thanks for ideas and inputs guys!

[Mustang]

nope it is not supposed to wiggle the bladder inside the can lost i's seal and the pressure has left the bladder . it should be charged with nitrogen . thats also why the oil came out . it can be  repaired...............any one that rebuilds shocks should be able to do it .

you can do it yourself also and if you want some pointers send Bruken a PM he can help you
also have a look here

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,7887

both my 98's with thaat pc of shit showa shock have done the same thing

[Persson]

nope it is not supposed to wiggle the bladder inside the can lost i's seal and the pressure has left the bladder . it should be charged with nitrogen . thats also why the oil came out . it can be  repaired...............any one that rebuilds shocks should be able to do it .

Crap....

From what I understand it is where you change your ride hight?
1. Is it possible to drive the bike without it for a while, or is it absolutely necessary?
2. Will the rear chock absorber collapse without it working?

You think it is better to try and find another one than to try and have it repaired?

Thanks man!

[rybes]

id get it repaired or do it yourself. theres a thread in here on how to do it. its an easy job. the chances of findin a good used onen ow are very slim. the youngest one now is 13 years old so will need rebuildin anyway.

[Persson]

id get it repaired or do it yourself. theres a thread in here on how to do it. its an easy job. the chances of findin a good used onen ow are very slim. the youngest one now is 13 years old so will need rebuildin anyway.

Thank you Rybes.
Do you know what this is part called? I tried to search, but don´t know what to search for...

[rybes]

heres the thread i used to rebuild mine Bruken posted it a while ago. the part youve gt a leak from comes with the shock. if its unbolted from the pipe youll loose all your oil. read through that thread nad youll get a better understandin of what it is and how it works

http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf

[Mustang]

Crap....

From what I understand it is where you change your ride hight?

it's for dampening or rebound forget which one without looking it up

1. Is it possible to drive the bike without it for a while, or is it absolutely necessary?

absolutely necessary

2. Will the rear chock absorber collapse without it working?

most likely as you will lose all the oil

You think it is better to try and find another one than to try and have it repaired?

on the front of the can where the air valve is you should see a circlip that holds the bladder in
undo the can from the engine so you can hold it upright .
take the clip out and pull the bladder assembly out
degrease the aluminum cap and reseal the bladder with some good silicone sealant
replace the oil you lost ........just pour some shock or fork oil in , enough so that the can is about 1/3 full .
put the resealed bladder assembly back in and put the clip on , don't be surprised if some oil forces out around it it will be excess oil is all  

pump that sucker up with about 120 psi of air pressure and you will be good to keep riding until you can get it done at a shop or replaced
I went with a new shock on mine

[Persson]

heres the thread i used to rebuild mine Bruken posted it a while ago. the part youve gt a leak from comes with the shock. if its unbolted from the pipe youll loose all your oil. read through that thread nad youll get a better understandin of what it is and how it works

http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf

You used this manual to rebuild yours?
Well done man! I don´t understand any of it.


But from what I do understand, correctly or not, that canister holds the oil that decides the ride hight.
-And there´s no way to bypass it?
What will happen if I ride the bike without fixing this?

1. Is the oilsystem in that canister the same system as the one inside the rear shock absorber?
I mean, will the rear shock empty out all oil in both that small canister AND the rear shock, or just that small canister, an the rear shock will still be OK  ?

2. What is broken here?
Is it just an O-ring, or a gasket, or is it the bladder itself that is gone?
 
3. Is there any other model that shares this system, where I can find a replace canister?

[Mustang]

I just told ya how to fix it one post up  go back and reread this thread :D

once you take it apart and with the info I gave you in my previous post it will be obvious what needs to be done and you will be ridin again in 15 minutes  :shock:

[BruKen]

All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.

[Persson]

I just told ya how to fix it one post up  go back and reread this thread :D

once you take it apart and with the info I gave you in my previous post it will be obvious what needs to be done and you will be ridin again in 15 minutes  :shock:

Haha,
Yes I wrote that at the same time as you wrote your answer. Didn´t think I would get an answer so fast.
Mustang- You are not only full of knowledge, but fast as a ninja too! :shock:

[Persson]

All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.

Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.

But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?

Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately

[rybes]

where bouts in scandanvia persson ? im in denmark and theres someone in norway if i remeber right ?

[Persson]

where bouts in scandanvia persson ? im in denmark and theres someone in norway if i remeber right ?

In Sweden unfortunately. So it seems we have Scandinavia covered, haha

[BruKen]

All that's happened is you've lost pressure. That whole assembly is held together at the opposite end by a C ring. That valve assembly you highlight can slide right out from the opposite side once the endcap , C ring and bladder are removed. It's meant to be loose. Pressure from the bladder seals the orings behind it and holds it in place, 10bar of it. If you ride now you will likely cause more damage, because it'll start getting a piston action going on damp and rebound due to vacuum and pressure strokes... follow the manual step by step. It was remarkably straight forward, then gas her up at a rebuilders. If you are near Manchester UK, pm me and I'll help you rebuild it.

Ok, now I´m starting to get an idea of what is what, and why.
I´ll disassembly and do some damagecontrol.

But when you say: "It is meant to be loose", do you mean that it is supposed to feel "spongy" when I wiggle it even after it is repaired?

Thanks for the info and invite to help BruKen, but i reside in Scandinavia. -Not just around the corner unfortunately

No, if the repairs are good it should feel very tight. If I was to venture a guess I'd say your oil may have either foamed or still not enough in, if the bladder has been inflated. Unfortunately if there is air in the system you have to bleed it. The proper way to do that is by dissembling the cartridge as explained in the pdf. strip it down. If you have basic mechanical skills, can read and follow instructions, you'll be surprised at how simple the oil service is. It is fiddly, like bleeding brakes, but not hard.