fuel pump relay(pics added) test ride grrrreat!!

[gatorwesty]

2001 955i wont start now, well starts and idles very slow and cuts off.
Tune ecu tells me a code of P0230 and P01231, or fuel pump relay default. I would like to find this little bugger and change it out but I dont know where the relays are?
I cant find it in the service manual either?

Anyone can help me with this, maybe a description or a photo?

Thanks,   keith

[Mustang]

this may or may not help you as it is a cut and paste from a obdii list :


P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description

Fuel Pump Primary (Control) Circuit Malfunction
What does that mean?

The fuel pump is activated by a PCM-controlled relay. Just as the name implies, a "relay" permits the transmittal of higher amperage current to the fuel pump without that current having to travel through the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). For obvious reasons it's better to not have higher amperage current anywhere near the PCM. Higher amperage current creates more heat but also in the event of a failure, can cause a PCM failure. This principal applies to any relay. The higher amperages are kept under the hood, away from sensitive areas

The relay contains basically two sides. The "control" side which is basically a coil and the "switch" side which is a set of electrical contacts. The control side (or coil side) is the low amp side. It's fed a switched ignition feed (12 volts with key on)and a ground. The ground circuit is activated by the PCM driver when appropriate. When the PCM fuel pump driver activates the relay coil, the coil acts as an electromagnet that pulls the electrical contacts closed which completes the fuel pump circuit. This closed switch allows voltage to flow on the fuel pump activation circuit, activating the pump. Whenever the key is turned on, the PCM grounds the fuel pump circuit for a few seconds, activating the fuel pump and pressurizing the system. The fuel pump won't be activated again until the PCM sees an RPM signal.

The driver in the PCM is monitored for faults. When activated the driver or ground circuit voltage should be low. When deactivated the driver/ground potential voltage should be high or near battery voltage. If the PCM sees a voltage other than what is expected, P0230 may be set.

Symptoms

Symptoms of a P0230 DTC may include:

    * MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
    * No start condition
    * No fuel pump operation
    * Fuel pump runs all the time with ignition on

Causes

Potential causes of a P0230 code include:

    * Short to ground on control circuit
    * Fuel pump control circuit open
    * Short to battery voltage on control circuit
    * Harness chafing causing one of above conditions
    * Bad relay
    * Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

Command the fuel pump on and off by using a scan tool or simply turning the ignition key on and off without starting the engine. If the fuel pump activates and deactivates, then start the vehicle and measure the current on the control (ground) circuit for a couple of minutes. It should be less than an amp and stay less than an amp.

If it doesn't then replacing the relay is a good idea at this point. If the fuel pump won't activate and deactivate, then remove the relay and visually check for discoloration due to heat or loose terminals. If okay, install a test light between the control circuit ignition feed and ground driver terminals (If you're not sure, don't attempt).

The test light should illuminate when the key is on or the fuel pump is commanded on. If it doesn't, then make sure there is voltage on one side of the coil (switched ignition feed). If voltage is present repair the open or short on the control ground circuit.

[Timbox2]

According to the Haynes manual, its under the seat, but from Vin 89737 its no longer fitted, and from memory that Vin Change is the old 885 tigers, so dont think your bike has a relay.

I would check the wiring to the fuel pump, or maybe unplug and take the ECU out and have a look at the sockets and underneath and check you havent got the dreaded rusted ECU.

PS: Just remembered, yep, that VIN change is when they went from the old MC2000 ECU to the newer MC1000, all 955i's have the MC1000 and the fuel pump is controlled directly from the ECU.

[gatorwesty]

I still am having the same issues, I cleared the fault and reloaded the tune and now no fault shows but it wont start. It fires and runs for a few seconds starving of fuel. I hear the fuel pump priming at key turn so that is working. I did find a relay under the seat and removed it. When I turn the key I dont hear the fuel pump priming. I was thinking about replacing this relay, but maybe that wont help and it is the ecu is bad?

It was running ok, prior to taking the tank off to do other maintenance, but first starts of the day were like it didnt want to run until it warmed up. It would die if I tried to give it gas until it came up to a normal idle. I dont know if the tank removal messed it up more?

Also, long time ago I switched out the fuel connectors to stainless and they are not marked. I dont know which goes where?

Can someone look and see where the connector coming off the fuel rail closest to the fuel pump is on the top or bottom connection, or does it matter?

Thanks for the previous reply's and need som more please.

[Bixxer Bob]

Firstly, Tim's right, the 955i doesn't have a relay. Once the fuel lines are pressurised, you won't hear the pump spin up again unless you turn it off and leave it for a bit.

Under the seat is the ECU relay.  Can't remember the rest for now, but you're looking in the wrong place anyway.  Relay would either work or not, it won't cause fuel pressure to drop so the motor dies.

EDIT: If you pulled the ECU relay it can't hold the power on to save vital data before shutting itself down, likewise if the relay is u/s it isn't saving the trims and will cause erratic behaviour.  Check that relay is working ok before moving on.  You do know how to check a relay?

You say it was bad when cold before removing the tank but worse now.  Is everything else in good shape?  (plugs, air filter, sensor connections, pipework incuding the baro sensor pipe and the IACV pipes).  you have to eliminate the obvious before jumping in.

[Timbox2]

It was running ok, prior to taking the tank off to do other maintenance, but first starts of the day were like it didnt want to run until it warmed up.
Also, long time ago I switched out the fuel connectors to stainless and they are not marked. I dont know which goes where?

.

My Tiger was the later type with only 1 fuel line, so Im not sure on the pipe positions, but isnt it easy to just try swapping the lines?

I was having a similar cold start issue which turned out to be my IACV stepper motor, others have had similar issues with the valve or the pipes themselves.( From Throttle Bodies to valve)

PS: Did you by any chance have the ignition on while you had the Tank off, that could have given you those codes originally.

[iansoady]

Also, long time ago I switched out the fuel connectors to stainless and they are not marked. I dont know which goes where?

Can someone look and see where the connector coming off the fuel rail closest to the fuel pump is on the top or bottom connection, or does it matter?

It doesn't matter. What happens is the pump pressurises the pipe and the fuel pressure regulator regulates the pressure (oddly enough) by opening at a predetermined pressure and bleeding excess back to the tank. When you first switch the ignition on the pump stops after a few seconds if you haven't started the engine.

Hence it doesn't matter which way round they connectors are as pressure will be the same either way.

Having said that, the pipes are different bores and I did put mine back so the larger bore was on the feed (bottom connector IIRC).

[Bixxer Bob]

If they are the wrong way round, are you not pressurising the wrong side of the relief valve?  Ie the pressure builds up between the pump and valve instead of the injector side of the circuit thus the injectors only get fuel pressure when the relief valve opens in which case the mix will be weak and it will run rough.

if the valve opens at all. not having this setup I,m not sure, time to dig out the Triumph manual I think....

[iansoady]

I don't think so. The pump is at one end of the pipe, the relief valve (fuel pressure regulator) at the other, with the injectors attached between them (on the rail). Therefore the entire length of the pipe is pressurised, with the FPR bleeding off enough to keep the pressure at the right level. Flow direction is immaterial, although there will be a constant flow through the pipe and rail once the engine is running.

At least that's how I understand it, and when I last looked inside that was how it looked, as well as looking at the illustration in the manual. Memory of course becomes increasingly unreliable.....

[Bixxer Bob]

I know what you mean.

I haven't looked it up yet but I couldn't picture in my head a relief valve that worked in both directions. Usually they lift a valve against a spring so won't work the other way.

[gatorwesty]

Removed tank again, and this time the lower fitting on the tank would not stop pouring gas out. I looked closer and inside the stainless fitting, it is missing a plastic piece that is in the other one. I believe this may be the problem as without it, it prevents the male fitting to release gas and pressurize the system.
I replaced the oem plastic fitting years ago with the team triumph stainless fittings but at some poing the inside plastic piece of the female fitting is gone, maybe it fell out when I removed the tank the firts time, or mabe I was running it that way for some time with slow starts and sluggish performance and poor milage. I have never smelled gas though, but I am thinking this may be the problem.
I did run diagnostics with tune ecu, all sensors seem ok and everything tested with out codes, so now I have to try and find one female stainles fitting to replace the one  with the issue.
Thanks for all the suggestions and input, I will keep you guys posted.

[gatorwesty]

Turned out to be the female stainless fuel fitting that lost its plastic internals somehow when I removed the tank for maintenance.

I reordered one at team triumph of wisconsin.  I bought the set there many moons ago and they were very nice and sent me the one part that I needed.

http://www.triumph1.com/intro.htm

[TigerTrax]

PS...
YOu can do quite abit of work under the tank simply by leaving it connected and propping it up on a couple of 2 x 4 across the frame.

[gatorwesty]

Went for a test ride, ended up in Key West, 1100 miles roundtrip. Tiger performed flawlessly, continues to amaze me.

[gatorwesty]

campsite and sunset