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Welding broken engine mounts

Started by Rocinante, May 03, 2012, 11:50:50 PM

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fishnbiker

Dag, my Felix got broken in exactly the same place during a hard hit to the oil pan in the Copper Canyon, Mexico. I hit a boulder with the engine bottom in a washout while standing on the pegs. I was shaken hard enough to rattle my teeth. I now have an enlarged belly pan & strengthened guard frame to cover the whole of the engine & suspension links.

86,000km on it then. 110,000km now. Not as much mileage these days, as I now have a BMW R100GS for road work while Felix is stuck on gravel roads. BTW, thanks for giving me the impetus to visit there. Your stories were inspiring.

The part broken off on mine was lost at that time as I also bent the thick plates holding the engine to the frame, along with the centre stand mount. I ended up losing the sprag clutch in Batopilas & had to push start it all the way home to Canada. Back home, the engine came out. My welder wouldn't touch it until it was dip cleaned. So, I stripped it down completely, as the sprag had to be done anyway. New inlet valves & rings also.

Another broken part on a friend's BMW R1150Gs foot peg required the paint be cooked off before he could start the repair. 6pm on a July 1st national holiday, we got it all done in 2 hours for $20 & 2 cases of beer which we had to help the welder consume.

I would suspect that the heat cleaning would likely cause issues with internal seals & gaskets if the engine is still complete. Unless you decide to get into rebuilding Rocinante, chemical cleaning might be worth looking into, followed by a light sandblasting or stainless steel wire brushing. The heat normalizing to remove stress must also be done after the welding repair.

Good luck on getting it all done.
Ken/Fishnbiker
& Felix, blue 95 Tiger, & Buzz, 08 blue Suzuki DR 650 SE, & Mini-D, 97 white Suzuki DR 350 SE

Rocinante

Thanks for the info, Kevin. I may lengthen the existing plate to cover the vulnerable parts. Looking at the linkage, it´s quite obvious it has gotten a few serious hits through the years.

Most parts are back in the frame now, and I hope to start it up this evening. Just need to fit the carbs and air filter, fill up with liquids and to a final check.

While I´m at it, I want to bypass the side stand switch. There are three cables running from the connector to the switch, but only two from the connector to the system. Redundancy? :?:
Short cut the two cables that goes to the system and remove the switch, is that the solution?
www.dagjen.no
Once upon a time through North and South America:
www.rocinantestravels.com

Rocinante

Everything is back together now, and I have a smoother suspension than I have had in years.:)

All is not perfect though. Almost as usual after a reassembly, one of the cylinders is not firing. It´s the centre cylinder and it has got a spark. At low to mid revs it does´t run, and when I pull the plug it´s dry (no gas entering it seems). At higher revs it fires but only high high up.

When I pulled the carbs I noticed that they were pretty well covered in greasy sand, so I realize some may have entered somewhere.

Anything I should try before I pull the carbs and start blowing into holes?
www.dagjen.no
Once upon a time through North and South America:
www.rocinantestravels.com

metalguru

Need to pull the carbs off and completely clean ALL the jets and orifi including the emulsion tubes untill very clean and clear. Refit when all are clean and balance, reset pilots to clean even idle, good to go.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

Rocinante

Thanks Metalguru. I have done as much as I can and want to do at the moment, and btw moved over to a new thread here:
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,11356
www.dagjen.no
Once upon a time through North and South America:
www.rocinantestravels.com