I seem to be doing more spending than riding.

[Chris Canning]

If you've had the front wheel off the ground and the head bearings feel good,and the bike is wandering around,jack the preload up to max and ride the bike again,if it's wandering around it'll be down at the back for some reason,and of course I'm assuming you have a new tyre on the back,becuase surely your not going that distance with part worn one are you :?

[robxxxx]

The back tyre has a LOT of tread left on it and I am going on it. I will try the preload and check the tightness of bearings. I only notice it at very low/crawling speeds. Otherwise its fine at any other speed.
Just going to pop out for another hour or so to stick some more miles on the front tyre. :D

[metalguru]

The back tyre has a LOT of tread left on it and I am going on it. I will try the preload and check the tightness of bearings. I only notice it at very low/crawling speeds. Otherwise its fine at any other speed.
Just going to pop out for another hour or so to stick some more miles on the front tyre. :D

It could be the head bearings as they seem to eat them!
Jack up the front end and try going from lock to lock but VERY gently and slowly, if they are just on their way it is only delicate movement will detect the worn bearings.

Not wishing to tell you how to suck eggs, just past experience. Best to change before you go as it will annoy the hell on the trip.

[robxxxx]

Yes, head bearings do have a notch. ordering now. I will replace the fork oil while i'm at it. Then that's it. I hope........

[robxxxx]

Bearings and fork oil arrive tomorrow.  Have most of it stripped down, one question though. How does the top yoke come off? Handlebars and top head nut are off but I cant see whats still holding it in place. Am I not being brutal enough?
Forks are out. I pulled the the springs and checked the oil level. One seemed to be 17cm and the other was 18.5 cm from top of fork tube. I am going with 10w oil.  Anyone care to recommend an air gap?
Oh and just to make my day, most of the bolts on the mud guard were seized solid. And whats the chuffin crack with those two bolts on top of the mudguard with the crap little spring clip type things to screw into. ended up grinding them off.

[rf9rider]

If the top yoke is like the Steamer, you have to take the tank off, or move it out the way so you can then turn the yoke 180 degrees as it has a lip that attaches to the frame as a security device.

[robxxxx]

Cheer's for that, just found Mustang's thread as well.

[robxxxx]

OK, a penultimate post. If all goes well the Big Blue Ba*stard should be back on the road thursday. Just wanted to give some observations on the head bearing swop.

THE BAD.
The Triumph service manual is of no help whatsoever(Almost).
The bottom yolk race are a sod to get off.
Those mudguard bolts and fittings. ( I want to meet the man who at the design meeting said...." I know, we'll use oversized fairing grommets and cheap flat nuts to hold it in place". I not only want to meet him, but I want to congratulate him on his astute business acumen. I then want to punch him in the face as hard as possible.
The top yolk on my 2005 has to be forced/pulled off. NOT like a steamer, where you turn it to disengage the headstock. PLEASE NOTE Girly owners.

THE GOOD.
The freezer is your friend. Bottom yolk and top bearing in overnight. Helps no end easing them on.
Wickes do a furniture leg that's 32mm x 800mm. The perfect drift for that bottom race.
You can buy slim adjustable spanners, to adjust bearing tension, from most good tool shops. The only special tool you will need.

Once the forks were out, the wear on the bearings was more pronounced. Glad that I have done it though. The forks were a piece of cake to replace the oil. My advice would be to leave them inverted overnight then pump them a few times and leave for an hour or more to get the last bit of crap out. They seem to lock if left compressed, but a good tug gets them free again.

Plan to get it all rolling again on Thursday, will let you know how it goes.

[Bixxer Bob]

To remove bottom races I find careful use of an angle grinder makes short work of it; grinding through the race but not the stem (obviously)!

[PeteH]

Bottom race came off a treat on mine..good solid thwack with a drift. As for the well nuts on the mudguard.. I feel your pain, I managed to cut down the nut so saving the bolt and the rubber insert..re assembled with a nylocks, just did one side tho as it wasnt necessary to remove all 4.

[Chris Canning]

I see the speedo has gone belly up as well!!!

[robxxxx]

Aaahhh, been spying on me have you. Big Brother Chris knows all.  Any chance you can do me the lottery numbers for this week Chris.  
Yes, more problems. I have only had time to get out on it a couple of times since doing the bearings and the speedo has been a problem. Pulled the wheel to see if the drive was seated ok, and that was fine. But I think it may be further up the cable. When I put the fairing back on I did look at the speedo connector and think it looked like it was pulled a bit tight, if you know what I mean. So I will try and get a look at it this weekend. I took a look at how much a new one is and almost fell over!
Apart from that the steering bearings are good, think I might need to tighten them up just a fraction as I noticed a very, very slight handle bar wobble at illegal speeds. But to my mind, the fork oil has been the big improvement.  
The saga continues........

[Chris Canning]

I had one go down in 2000 while travelling Spain,they need to be treated with some reverance,ie even the drive needs flushing out with WD and regreasing properly,it's not just a seating issue.

Can't tell you the lottery numbers,but I can tell you if you have a problem with a 955 you've a better chance of sorting it on here rather than the other channel.