DAR questions

[GavD]

Chaps,

Found a post on triumphrat

http://www.triumphrat.net/steamer-mods-and-workshop/200816-loud-tiger.html

that says that after VIN number 56685 triumph changed the shaft to prevent DAR. Does anyone have more info on this.

Is the shaft they changed the same as the one you can buy as a parts kit - the one you need to strip the clutch out to change?

My 98 has a VIN higher than 56685, yet when I first bought it in 2002 I suffered from DAR a couple of times and sent it in to the dealer to get it sorted. When it had happened a third time and I'd got a bit cheesed off with paying out to have the same thing fixed three times, I gave them a tube of superstrength loctite to fix this 'bolt that works loose' (his description of the fault).

It's not suffered from DAR since, but I was thinking of doing some preventative maintenance over the winter and a DAR shaft upgrade was a possible option. Reading the post on triumphrat it would appear I'd be wasting my time (& money).

Can anyone confirm this?

I also wanted to do this to cure the oil leak from the alternator. I read on here somewhere about a recommended different o ring that fits better, but can't find it again. Anyone got this info to hand??

Thanks in advance

Gav

[Mustang]

your 98 already has the new style shaft .................you will be wasting money .

the loctite was the fix ...........it is the boly in the alternator itself that comes out . if it aint broke don't fuck with it !

the OEM oring works fine . the problem is it gets pinched when installing the alt. and usually gets cut into .

use a new oring and grease the hell out of it when you install.

[GavD]

Many thanks to you Mustang, that's crossed that one off the list.

[Bixxer Bob]

Ok, not being of the Steamer ilk, what's a DAR?

[Mustang]

Ok, not being of the Steamer ilk, what's a DAR?

Dreaded Alternator Rattle

the early steamers had a sold drive shaft that is run by a gear off the clutch hub and goes thru the sprag cluth to a vane with cush rubbers that drives the alternator . the bolts would shear off on either the alternator side (easy fix)or the clutch side (not so easy fix)

the 98's had the new improved replacement shaft installed that had a hollw shaft and 1 long bolt that passed thru and loc-nut .
The problem was solved sort of . Now the bolt that is in the alternator itself that holds the drive vane to the alternator shaft  breaks off .

no matter which bolt breaks it lets one or the other drive vane rattle like hell . worse at idle up to about 3k rpm . sounds like a diesel truck ,(well a lot worse than the normal diesel sound ). the broken bolt head rattles around until enough centrifugal force keeps it from rattling .

[Bixxer Bob]

Thanks, much clearer! 

[nightrunner]

Its not the bolt head bouncing around that makes the sound.  Its the drive vane wiggling on the splined shaft.  Its that same play that makes the bolt head break off.  The play in the splines causes the bolt to ever-so-slowly tighten until it snaps off the head.  The stock bolt is grade DIN10.9 which is same as U.S. grade 8 which is a pretty high grade bolt.  The only stronger ones are aircraft grade DIN12.9.  You can find these on the web somewhere if you want to upgrade.   The trick is to use thread locker as mentioned above, but also do not use a lock washer.  Only use a flat washer.   I also used some of the Loctite stuff for broken shaft keyways.  I would think JB weld would work too.  But something to take up the slack in the splines so there is no wiggle. 

[GavD]

Finally got round to curing my alternator oil leak, stripped off bodywork, tank, carbs and airbox to get at the alternator. When I got in there I found that the bottom quarter of the O ring had been cut off as the dealer put it back in last time the DAR was done. The bit was still there stuck to the casing.

Got the new one, slapped silicon grease all over the place and gave it all a bit of a wiggle to locate the vane then push it home. Once the oring got inside the housing it slid home by hand (the first time I tried I pinched the oring and could feel it wasn't right).

I'm guessing the dealer must have used the mounting bolts to get it home last time otherwise he'd have felt the resistance himself. So called bloody professional technicians!!

Just gotta clean all the oil of the sump now thats built up over a few years.