no more lights on my 06 Girly! please help

[tigergotcha]

Hi from italy!

Yesterday while turning the bike on, once the engine started running, the lights remained off.
On my bike I have low beam lights always on, so normal sequence is: switching the key on lights are on, while pressing engine start button they temporarely switch off, then (as the engine runs), back on.

All the headlights are now off (high-low-parking) and also instruments-light and tail light.

No problems with indicators and brake lights.

I double checked all lights related fuses in the fuses box (1-8-9-10) - the're ok, the four in a column relays under the cockpit - they seem fine, and all connections.

Where else could the problem be? What do I have to check exactly?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

Angelo

[Mustang]

bad key switch (girlies are known for the solder joints internally coming undone ) get a voltmeter and start checking , you'll also need the wiring diagram

broken wires in the harness where it goes into key switch ..........start wiggling the harness at that location and see if the lights come back on .

those are the two main culprits  to start with

[Fe Man]

What Mustang said.
Re-soldered mine, filled switch with E6000, reassembled.

[tigergotcha]

Thanks a lot Mustang - I'll check it asap, then report results.

[Robbie]

Hi Gotcha

there is a group of relays LH side of cockpit give the big one a shake

you should be able to feel it click when the starter is pressed.

this is the relay that cuts the lights just may need to be reseated

[tigergotcha]

hi Robbie.
Thanks for the advice - the problem is the key switch (Mustang and FeMan were 100% right).
Wiggling the harness near the switch the lights came on.
I am going to resolder wire inside the switch.

Next challenge level: removing the two anti-theft bolts...


I'd like to use a tool like this (if I find one easily) instead of going the brutal way


In the meantime, I'm wondering about adding an external manual switch (connected directly to main harness connector to key switch harness connector), bypassing the key switch contact.



What color are the light related wires to be connected to the external manual switch in order to bypass the key switch?
Cannot find the electrical diagram of my model yet (still searching).

Thanks again for your help!
Angelo   

[cbxtc6]

browN(main fuse), blUe/Yellow(headlight relay & switch), Red/Orange(position & taillight), Red/blUe(dash & light switch).

I'll see if I can scan the wiring diagram for you.  It already exists somewhere in cyberspace.

[cbxtc6]

[tigergotcha]

thanks a lot cbxtc6 - I can proceed with my tests now!

[gilly527]

Hey, I had this problem last year, if you pop the cap off the back of your ignition switch you'll probably see the problem immediately...

I soldered mine up again and tied the wires up differently when I put the ignition switch back in the bike so it wouldn't put any stresses on the wire bundle going in to the back of the switch.

[tigergotcha]

Hey, I had this problem last year, if you pop the cap off the back of your ignition switch you'll probably see the problem immediately...

I soldered mine up again and tied the wires up differently when I put the ignition switch back in the bike so it wouldn't put any stresses on the wire bundle going in to the back of the switch.

hi Gilly
sure I'll put some additional fasteners to tie the wires bundle steadier near the switch - how did you take the two annoying bolts out? 

browN(main fuse), blUe/Yellow(headlight relay & switch), Red/Orange(position & taillight), Red/blUe(dash & light switch).

I'm assembling a temporary external switch (it seems to work well), at least i can drive safer while waiting to fix the key switch 

[gilly527]

I modified an allen key for the job. I don't remember the size but mine were not near a tight as they should have been. It too a while and was difficult though. You could also try a long extension on a ratchet and stick a universal joint at the end with a hex bit, I don't know if there would be enough space under there to come in from below though. If I find the allen key I used I'll post a pic.

[Bixxer Bob]

Left hand bits like this are worth the money as you don't have to drill a pilot hole / risk snapping the very hard extractor.  Just drill into the bolt at slow speed with these and it'll make a hole until the torque required to cut metal overcomes the grip the seized bolt has on its hole.

[tigergotcha]

Solved!

it was the brown wire, its solder joint was completely undone inside the switch.

I finally decide to remove the upper yoke itself, key switch attached. After the resoldering job I filled the switch with glue (Fe Man style) then reassempled the bike together. All is working now.
Thanks to you all for your advices.

A picture of the switch before the re-soldering:

[metalguru]

Used to have to get these shear bolts out all the time when I was in the trade and the best and easy way is to use a long centre punch like the long Snap-on tools type sharpened to a bright point.

On the outer edge of the flanged screw head, tap lightly at a slight angle towards the direction of rotation and the screws normally release, if the flange is hit hard it wont move.

There just told the world how to steal anything ooopppsss.