leaking radiator questions

[tgrrdr]

I haven't picked my Tiger up from the dealer yet but yesterday on the phone they told me it's leaking pretty bad. A new one is $550 + labor so I'm looking at other options.

I assume ebay is my best option for a used one, any other sources I should check?

They told me 3 other Triumph models that would have the same radiator but I'm not sure how to confirm it will work before I buy one. Can I just compare part numbers on bikebandit or something?

How hard is it to replace? Should I pay the dealer for 2 hours labor or try to do it myself?

Thanks for your help.

[Mustang]

Radiator from any of the early Sprints (carb'd)
Trophy 3 cylinders
or Daytona (carb'd) 3 cylinders

are the same as whats on your tigger .

theres a tiger radiator on ebay right now in florida but the clown wants $425 for a used radiator  ......WTF

here's one with a fan for 99 bucks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Triumph-Trophy-900-Radiator-Fan-/130282074168?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e556ab038&vxp=mtr

[Bixxer Bob]

If you have even basic workshop skills you have nothing to lose by trying to fix yours first, since it's f××××d anyway.

I used  to repair radiators as part of the general workshop activities when I was younger.  In those days, they were mainly brass-tubed with brass or copper fins but in later years aluminium was the norm.  To fix brass ones we usually used solder and with aluminium we used epoxy. In both cases the approach was the same:

1) How bad is the leak?  A pressure test will show. Using rad hose, hose clamps and bungs, close off all holes.  In the last one you need to fit the valve from a bicycle tyre tube somehow (we soldered one into a metal bung but any lash-up will do as long as it doesn't leak).  Fill rad, seal and pressurise with a bicycle pump (not too much!)  The leak will be evident.  Up to 5 per cent of tubes can be sealed off if necessary without major probs.

2) Whatever the sealing method, absolute cleanliness is your friend.  In a brass tube, a pinhole can usually be soldered  but often the cause is acids rotting the tube from the inside in which case the whole tube has to go.  In aluminium, the tube has to go, no external fix is going to work without being a worry every time you ride.

3) To seal a tube, cut off the tube at the top and bottom, about half an inch from the top and bottom tank leaving a short stub on each.  Meticulously clean the inside to the stub as far as you can reach.  Use a rat-tail file or a strip of very fine emery wrapped over a large plastic zip-tie. I use the latter because its flexible.

4) Mix 2-part epoxy and spoon it into the tube (do one at a time and let gravity help. let it go off before doing the other end).  It must be stiff enough to not run out of the tube before it sets.

5) When it's hard, re-pressure test to be sure its sealed.

6)  Soldering is much the same approach.

It's a lot of faff so needs patience, but is way cheaper than a replacement unless your rad is totally gone.  leaving a stub gives you two chances to get it right. 

If the leak is at a tube/tank joint it's more of a problem.  In this case the tube needs to be cut off flush with the tank, the tank surface cleaned, then an aluminium patch epoxied in place. It's best if the patch is made thick enough and close fit between adjacent tubes so that the glue is on at least the back and two sides for extra strength.o

Edit forgot to say, solder or epoxy, thoroughly dry the tube stub or tank before sealing.  Careful use of a blowtorch or hairdryer works.

[birddogone]

Hey Bill, Before I'd do anything I'd dump Prestone Stop leak in it. I was in and around Land Rovers for years and I can tell you it was regular practice with the series 2 discos and older Range Rovers leaking manifolds. My wife drives a 99 series two and Prestone is in it. I use only Prestone because when you flush your system it comes out unlike the oils and some of the other gummy substitutes on the market. I have even used it in my 06 Tiger when I flushed and refilled my anti freeze recently. I also only use the green anti freeze in all my vehicles, the pink which aluminum engine companies recommend was also problematic with leaking intakes and manis. (just my opinion)
I'm speaking from a many years experience using it (only Prestone stop leak) with no problems,
Rod in Va.

[Bixxer Bob]

Just wondering, was it leaking when it went in?  Or did the dealer put a tool through it?

Prestone claim their product will fill leaks up to 0.016" x 0.5" so you're probably on a winner there although even they say mechanical repairs may be necessary.  It's all down to the size of the hole.

Call me old-fashioned, but I like a mechanical fix.  It means more work than pouring a bottle but my OCD needs to know I fixed it for good.

[Mustang]

The Tanks on a steamer radiator are plastic , and I'd be willing to bet it's leaking where the tanks are sealed to the tube headers .
Instead of screwing around with repairs that may or may not work , I'd buy the one for 99 bucks on ebay and have a spare fan to boot . 

[tgrrdr]

I haven't taken it apart to look at it yet but the way the tech described it to me was corrosion at the interface between plastic and metal. It was dumping out coolant while idling in the parking lot so I'm guessing it's beyond repair. I'm going to try to remove it tomorrow while my kids are napping.

A bit of the back story: bike has +/- 55k miles on it. I parked it in my garage 3 or 4 years ago and hadn't tried to start it since. Took it to dealer for fluid change, carb check, etc. to get it running again. They flushed the radiator, changed fluids, replaced the battery, etc and didnt realize it was bad until they fired it up.

On the plus side, they loaded it into a truck and delivered it to my driveway for me.

[tgrrdr]

Thanks for the advice and tips. I'll let you know what happens.

[birddogone]

Bob, I'm with ya on the part replacement, most always best solution. My use of Prestone stop leak has been for "weeping or slight drips" and preventive measures. Obviously for large leaks replacement would be the right remedy.
Rod

Just wondering, was it leaking when it went in?  Or did the dealer put a tool through it?

Prestone claim their product will fill leaks up to 0.016" x 0.5" so you're probably on a winner there although even they say mechanical repairs may be necessary.  It's all down to the size of the hole.

Call me old-fashioned, but I like a mechanical fix.  It means more work than pouring a bottle but my OCD needs to know I fixed it for good.

[rybes]

when i used to mechanic for a banger racer. we used to fix rad leaks with P40. wed find the leak and stuff P40 all around it on both sides of the rad. always worked perfectly. only problem i can see with it bein on a bike would be a big pink blob on ya radiator that all could see.

[Bixxer Bob]

The Tanks on a steamer radiator are plastic , and I'd be willing to bet it's leaking where the tanks are sealed to the tube headers .
Instead of screwing around with repairs that may or may not work , I'd buy the one for 99 bucks on ebay and have a spare fan to boot . 

Well, that's one for the bank, means the Girly one is probably the same - and I'll have to come up with a new repair scheme when the time comes.  99 bucks is 99 bucks, I always try fixing first - it only costs time but I accept not everyone has the skills.

[tgrrdr]

I bought a radiator (and fan) from a 95 Sprint on ebay for $125 + $15 shipping. I'll post up pics of my old radiator next week.

[sweller]

when i used to mechanic for a banger racer. we used to fix rad leaks with P40. wed find the leak and stuff P40 all around it on both sides of the rad. always worked perfectly. only problem i can see with it bein on a bike would be a big pink blob on ya radiator that all could see.

This is exactly what I used to do when I raced bangers.  (late 80s early 90s, Cheddar with BRISCA)