Bleeding Girly front brakes

[Fross]

Hi to everyone, I've serviced all my brake callipers today coz after 400 miles riding at the weekend I noticed squealing coming from the brakes when I tried to push the bike backwards to park.
Its the usual problem of corrosion forming in the seal grooves causing the calliper pistons to become stiff. (Too much salt on the roads). I have today changed the pistons (and banjo bolts) for stainless ones. On bleeding I've put 500ml of fluid through using the old fashion method as described in the workshop manual and the lever is so spongy it touches the grip. I searched this forum for help and saw the suggestion to tie back the lever and go for a beer  (actually I'm having a Scotch, I fancied one COZ I'M SO PI--ED OFF). I hope it works. I'll report what I find tomorrow. BTW. I didn't type the two S's in case it offends anyone.
I've now got to buy more brake fluid as I haven't started to bleed the rear brake yet.

[Mustang]

go ahead say it ....PISSED ! 
we're all big boys here .

[gatorwesty]

http://speedbleeder.com/

I installed these on both of my 2001 girlies, and I bleed my brakes with ease and without any helpers. Cheap, simple, and works great...........

[Bixxer Bob]

I'm just about to do this to mine.  I had the same problem last time I did it and ended up removing the left caliper ans raising it so that any air in the link pipe made its way up and out. 

[HockleyBoy]

Took mine apart at the weekend and gave them a clean as left front was sticking, I found that most of the air came out at the top with lots of pumping of the lever and gentle tapping of the brake lines. Tied the handle back for an hour or so afterwards and pumped a little more and have lovely firm brakes.

Unfortunately for me the clean is a short term fix as the pistons are moving better but still not as free as I would like so I will be replacing the seals in the next week or so.

[Fross]

The overnight tied back lever made no difference. I've tried turning the callipers in all orientations while bleeding to get the air to move also holding them up to clear air from the supply pipes, all makes no difference. I'm not getting any bubbles in my bleed pipe just pure fluid. I have also cracked open the master cylinder banjo to bleed fluid through that joint but again just fluid coming out. I give up.

I bled the rear brake with no problem at all, why can't the front be the same?

Now I'm really PISSED OFF.

OK, I've just read Hockleyboy's post "gently tapping the brake lines" I'll give that a try, Thanks.

The Speedbleeders look a great idea to make life easy but I don't see how they will help shift trapped air, although they will prevent air getting back in during the bleeding process.

[metalguru]

If you don't have access to a power bleeder then another way of getting rid of those nasty little airlocks is,
With normal bleed tube and container attached, pump the brake lever several times (about 10 if counting) and hold it in to the bars, keep it held to the bars and release the bleed nipple, let the fluid escape and close nipple THEN let the lever go, repeat procedure untill nice tight lever returns. If you are still getting a soft lever and all the air is out then the pads may need bedding in.

[Bixxer Bob]

I wonder if the seal in the master cylinder is ok?  To test look for swirling in the reservoir while pulling the lever, or replace cylinder to hose banjo bolt with an ordinary bolt.  lever should then solid.

[HockleyBoy]

Got to say it takes a lot of pumping of the handle before the bubbles stop coming out into the reservoir but it does seem to work for me in the end (have done it this way a few times) when it appears there is no more air when bled the ususal way.

[Fross]

Thanks guys for the advice, 
I've just passed 500ml of fluid through each calliper with them in position. Saw a couple of tiny bubbles but nothing more. Still lever pulls to grip. Have left it tied back again. I'll try the method MG has suggested next. The idea to plug the outlet of the m/cylinder to test it, is a good one too (it'll be on my 'Last Resort' list).
I will let you know how it all goes. 

Pity I can't turn the bike upside down.

[Fross]

I just went back out to bike, untied lever, pumped it ten times to grip, released bleed nipple while still holding lever to grip. Saw no bubbles in bleed tube. Repeated again and still no bubbles. Started to do it a third time and lever now won't pull to grip. Suddenly I've got a working front brake. Thanks Metalguru, I have no idea why, but it worked.

[Fross]

Next time I have to service the front callipers I will make sure the reservoir is full of fluid and seal the lid air tight with a thick rubber gasket. I'll make every effort I can to keep the fluid in the lines and air out. Then on reassembly the bleeding should be easier.

I may have pumped air into the system when I failed to top up the reservoir during forcing out the stuck piston when I began the servicing. I didn't worry at the time coz I was planning to change the rusty banjo bolt in the m/cylinder which would introduce air anyway.

[Bluto]

Sometimes a vacuum bleeder does the trick when all else fails, Mityvac sells one tha is not too expensive and is easy to find

[aesdj]

This may sound like a load of bollocks but trust me it works.Put a CLEAN peice of pipe on to a CLEAN oil can and shove it onto the nipple.Open the nipple and pump loads of fluid in.I here this is called back bleeding.Lock the nipple and bleed as normal. I had to do this on the Tiger last year when I stripped them for powder coating.

[Bixxer Bob]

I've got one of these now so will let you know what I learned tomorrow:

http://www.tooled-up.com/product/sealey-vacuum-tester-brake-bleeding-kit/139179/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CIP6xd7YxbUCFaTMtAodRjoAUw