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Alternator Oil Leak/DAR - Wisdom Required

Started by TrailR, April 22, 2013, 03:23:00 PM

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TrailR


While I have the Tiger apart to check the valves and to rebuild the carbs I decided to go ahead and replace the alternator o-ring.  I do have some leaks on the bike and will systematically begin tracking them down.

Anyway...I discovered that the bolt on clutch side of the alternator drive was showing signs of wear.  I suspect that my bike is a victim of DAR, but I honestly have not driven the bike to know either way.

Alternator side looks good and was tight with no wear on the bolt.




Clutch side was loose and showing signs of wear due to contact I assume.





What is the collective wisdom on how to proceed? 

I am up to the task of opening the clutch side to make the full DAR repair, but IF I need to do that I will need to order parts ASAP due to the lead time.  Bike has 7,600 miles and I was surprised to find it loose at all.

Any recommended changes to the alternator side?


Mustang

is the bolt broken off or can you tighten it ?

the original design was a bolt that threads into the shaft ...the new improved replacement kit comes with a new hollow shaft and a thru bolt and nut that you tighten from the clutch side .

if you can tighten it up from the alternator side ........ be happy and ride it until it breaks . :thumbsup

TrailR

Thanks Mustang!  Would you recommend some thread locker to prevent it from backing out or just torque to specs and call it a day?

Mustang

torque it down ..thread locker will probably be useless.

TrailR


I am having some difficulty getting the alternator put back in.  It will go until the final 1/4".  Did I do something foolish here that I am going to regret?  I even tried without the cush drive and the o-ring to see if it will go in...no joy.

So, is it possible the vane is not fully seated properly on the motor side?

Mustang

something is not right study this pic

http://www.bikebandit.com/1997-triumph-tiger-885-alternator-starter-drive-gears/o/m147367sch561461

whatever you do dont pull the shaft out cuz the sprag clutch WILL drop down into the guts of the motor requiring you to split the cases to repair

TrailR


I was able to find the cause this morning.

I did this...



And found this...



Parts are on order and should be here in a week.  The good news is that the sprag did not drop into the engine.

I have put 0 miles on this bike and I have now re-built the carbs, adjusted the valves and now fixing the DAR...Hope to be riding soon.