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'04 spoked-wheel shock removal

Started by eurobykz, September 10, 2013, 05:57:32 PM

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eurobykz

Before I dive in to remove the shock for my 2004 spoked-wheel Girly, I wonder if anyone can tell me the dimensions (ID/OD) of this spacer that I'm going to have to drift out...   My Haynes manual just says to use "a suitable drift"


Ian
Ian Fleming
Saskatoon canada

2007 MotoGuzzi Breva V11 (Italian Mistress)
2004 Tigger 955i 
2014 KTM Duke690 (impulse purchase)

Chris Canning

Your getting in front of yourself after you have undone the bolt and taken that out just shine a tourch in the swing arm hole and all will be revealed what you drift it out with has more to do with how long it's been in rather than the size of the drift.

Mine has been out that many times I just tap it out with a screw driver with the palm of my hand,if yours has never been out and seen plenty of winter weather and no grease I'd be inclined to lube it up well before you attempt anything and remember you knock it out from the right side so it comes out the left  :icon_lol:

DavidR8

On this topic. Are the needle bearing in a cage or are they loose? I ask only becasue I've read post about having the bearings just drop onto the ground.
2006 Girly, stone stock!

eurobykz

Thanks Chris, but if I actually knew the dimensions, I would find a nice soft brass drift the right size before I start bashing away...   perhaps doing a wee bit less damage in the process?    That's my idea, anyway.   

Ian
Ian Fleming
Saskatoon canada

2007 MotoGuzzi Breva V11 (Italian Mistress)
2004 Tigger 955i 
2014 KTM Duke690 (impulse purchase)

Chris Canning

Just pull the inspection rubber bung out and look inside you'll be able to have a very good educated guess.

Oddly enough I've always found the hassle is the top shock bolt as it's a torque and getting at it is a real pain,it's more a case of just holding the torque end in situ and undo the nut and knock the bolt out.  :icon_evil:

Bixxer Bob

Quote from: Chris Canning on September 11, 2013, 09:27:50 AM

Oddly enough I've always found the hassle is the top shock bolt as it's a torque and getting at it is a real pain,it's more a case of just holding the torque end in situ and undo the nut and knock the bolt out.  :icon_evil:

:iagree  I ended up grinding down an "L" shaped torx key to fit one side and can just get to the nut on the other with a cranked ring spanner.  As for torquing it up afterwards???   :ImaPoser
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Dutch

I used the sliding T-bar from a 1/2" socket set (diameter 13.5 mm), worked fine. Only disadvantage is that the end is slightly rounded, could not get the bolt through after fitting the Wilbers. Turned out the uneven pressure of the rounded end had dented the spacer a little into the hole. However this was so minimal that a few strokes with a fine round file solved it.

Chris Canning

Faced with the ever increasing use or torque I bought this kit some years ago in of all places Helsinki  :icon_confused:,but it has got me out of jail no end of times but even with this the best I could do was a socket in the bolt and a knuckle on that via a bar just hold it and then undo the nut.

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/winter20102011082.jpg.html)

Bixxer Bob

That's nearly as clean as your bike Chris!!  Nice set, I'm guessing the quality is top notch...
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Chris Canning

I bought e'm must be the best part of 10 years ago in a store a bit like Halfords my other halfs cousin was telling us the Ruskies come over the boarder buying stuff with 2" wad's of 500 Euro notes  :icon_eek: