Shock removal

[scotty99]

Just fitted a Hagon lowering shock to my 04 Girly.  It's the 05 model, and it was a much easier job than I expected.  The lower shock mounting is easily accessible on both sides under the swingarm, and it was a simple job to get in with an aluminium drift and a bfh.
Many thanks to everybody who's contributed to this thread - I'd still be trying to figure things out if I'd had to rely on the manual.
Next job - cut the centre and side stands down to size!

Scott.

[Sin_Tiger]

Next job - cut the centre and side stands down to size!

Scott.

Are you really having difficulty getting it onto the mainstand? I can see the sidestand could cause a bit of concern on the wrong camber.

I just fitted lowering plates and dropped the forks on my Roadie, haven't had it out yet but just on the flat it seems still within range and the mainstand requires only slightly more effort, nothing like the Vara though.

Where abouts in Ayrshire out of interest, I am in Maybole when I manage to get to the UK.

[scotty99]

Maybe, I'm just a weakling, but I had a problem getting the Tiger onto the centre stand before I lowered it.  Chopping the stand seems to be the best option.

I'm in Cumnock, not that far from Maybole.

Scott.

[Sin_Tiger]

Just up the road, I'll give you a shout next time I'm back if you fancy a bacon butty. Promise I am not going to go back if there is the slightest chance of snow or ice,  :icon_scratch that kind of limits it a bit.

Not sure about your main stand but many I have seen are a bit limited in scope for shortening, not enough straight length to cut out. If it's possible I think I would also be looking at how easy it is to rock off the stand, you might need to grind back the stop as well to get a bit more over centre angle if you know what I mean.

[blacktiger]

A while back i bought a Wilbers shock for my Girly,

I have to ask how you expect to adjust the preload?

Its pre adjusted to my weight and intended use,but if i have to then i will get the supplied "C" spanner out and give to my 3 year old niece,her hands will just about fit in there :D

Ha ha.
So, have you had a chance to assess the Wilbers? I'm thinking of investing myself......with a remote preload, of course.

[n4naked]

Maybe, I'm just a weakling, but I had a problem getting the Tiger onto the centre stand before I lowered it.  Chopping the stand seems to be the best option.

I'm in Cumnock, not that far from Maybole.

Scott.

getting it onto the centre-stand is more technique than strength and i'm very comfortable with doing it but, having lowered mine by 40mm using a hagon shock, i can assure you that it's impossible to get it on the stock centrestand.
i got the stand cut, seems fine now.

[blacktiger]

So, I've just tackled the task of removing my shock, which after 59000 miles of abuse is feeling sad.
I found some of the above advice very useful but some is misleading. e.g no-one mentions that the shock will not come out without releasing the mudguard to allow the shock to swing rearwards, pivoting on the lower bearing....

So the things I had to remove were :-
Battery & box to give some room for hands to get in.
Exhaust muffler to allow access to the RH side hole for the shock lower bearing.
Rear wheel and mudguard to allow shock to exit stage rear.
Chain guard to give clearance for an extension for the spanner for the nut LH side of the top mounting. VERY TIGHT!
Rearmost mounting bolt on the exhaust headers so they could be pushed down slightly to allow the swing arm to sink low enough to let the top of the shock to clear the frame cross brace.

So with all that finally done, I made the puller to remove the lower bearing sleeve. I used some 10mm threaded bar and two nuts ground down and rounded to about 15mm diameter as described in a post somewhere above.
Lifting the swing arm up so that the RH hole clears the exhaust, the 14mm nut can be removed from the sleeve bolt, which has a torx in its head. That removed, I then inserted the threaded bar....


And arranged some bits and pieces to allow the puller to work....


And then wound on the nut and the sleeve came out good as gold.
This shows the shock, sleeve and puller....& 8 years of crap...


So with a thorough clean up I'm going to see if my local expert can give it an overhaul. If not, a Wilbers will be on order.

All the above took about 3 hours including a trip to Halfords to replace the socket set universal joint which shattered as I tried to undo the shock top mounting bolt. Hence putting an extension onto the spanner the other end. It's best to undo the nut, not try to undo the bolt if you know what I mean.

[ChazzyB]

getting it onto the centre-stand is more technique than strength and i'm very comfortable with doing it but, having lowered mine by 40mm using a hagon shock, i can assure you that it's impossible to get it on the stock centrestand.
i got the stand cut, seems fine now.

My chain eccentric is swivelled 180 degrees (~40mm drop at the back) and the foks are 25m up through the yokes. Hoiking the bike onto the c centre stand was a bit tedious. As I was doing a MIG welding evening class, I took the opportunity to cut and shut the stands. I removed 2cm either side from the centre stand and found 1cm was all the side stand needed. The centre stand's really easy to use now, and a bit of wind no longer blows it over off the side stand. With the centre stand, I cut the bottom plate off the side that doesn't have the 'arm' and removed 2cm, shaping the tube to refit the bottom plate. The side with the arm, I cut the gusset plate free from the leg just below the cross tube and removed 2cm there (above the 'arm'). A suitable piece of scrap pipe was jammed up the middle for strength and then all welded up. Result!

[blacktiger]

So, I've just tackled the task of removing my shock, which after 59000 miles of abuse is feeling sad.
I found some of the above advice very useful but some is misleading. e.g no-one mentions that the shock will not come out without releasing the mudguard to allow the shock to swing rearwards, pivoting on the lower bearing....

So the things I had to remove were :-
Battery & box to give some room for hands to get in.
Exhaust muffler to allow access to the RH side hole for the shock lower bearing.
Rear wheel and mudguard to allow shock to exit stage rear.
Chain guard to give clearance for an extension for the spanner for the nut LH side of the top mounting. VERY TIGHT!
Rearmost mounting bolt on the exhaust headers so they could be pushed down slightly to allow the swing arm to sink low enough to let the top of the shock to clear the frame cross brace.

So with all that finally done, I made the puller to remove the lower bearing sleeve. I used some 10mm threaded bar and two nuts ground down and rounded to about 15mm diameter as described in a post somewhere above.
Lifting the swing arm up so that the RH hole clears the exhaust, the 14mm nut can be removed from the sleeve bolt, which has a torx in its head. That removed, I then inserted the threaded bar....


And arranged some bits and pieces to allow the puller to work....


And then wound on the nut and the sleeve came out good as gold.
This shows the shock, sleeve and puller....& 8 years of crap...


So with a thorough clean up I'm going to see if my local expert can give it an overhaul. If not, a Wilbers will be on order.

All the above took about 3 hours including a trip to Halfords to replace the socket set universal joint which shattered as I tried to undo the shock top mounting bolt. Hence putting an extension onto the spanner the other end. It's best to undo the nut, not try to undo the bolt if you know what I mean.

Update......
Inspecting the lower bearing I found that 3 rollers were missing. It's an "IKO YT172420 drawn cup, full compliment needle roller". Triumph don't supply new ones and they're not listed in the IKO catalogue. GGrrrrr!
So, I ordered a caged one the same size and cannibalized it for the rollers which were the same diameter but 1.5mm shorter. Packed it with grease and placed the short rollers one every third of the way round the bearing and reassembled the bike fitting a new sleeve inner through the bearing. It surprised me how easily it all pushed through.

[Chris Canning]

So, I've just tackled the task of removing my shock, which after 59000 miles of abuse is feeling sad.
I found some of the above advice very useful but some is misleading. e.g no-one mentions that the shock will not come out without releasing the mudguard to allow the shock to swing rearwards, pivoting on the lower bearing....

So the things I had to remove were :-
Battery & box to give some room for hands to get in.
Exhaust muffler to allow access to the RH side hole for the shock lower bearing.
Rear wheel and mudguard to allow shock to exit stage rear.
Chain guard to give clearance for an extension for the spanner for the nut LH side of the top mounting. VERY TIGHT!
Rearmost mounting bolt on the exhaust headers so they could be pushed down slightly to allow the swing arm to sink low enough to let the top of the shock to clear the frame cross brace.

So with all that finally done, I made the puller to remove the lower bearing sleeve. I used some 10mm threaded bar and two nuts ground down and rounded to about 15mm diameter as described in a post somewhere above.
Lifting the swing arm up so that the RH hole clears the exhaust, the 14mm nut can be removed from the sleeve bolt, which has a torx in its head. That removed, I then inserted the threaded bar....


And arranged some bits and pieces to allow the puller to work....


And then wound on the nut and the sleeve came out good as gold.
This shows the shock, sleeve and puller....& 8 years of crap...


So with a thorough clean up I'm going to see if my local expert can give it an overhaul. If not, a Wilbers will be on order.

All the above took about 3 hours including a trip to Halfords to replace the socket set universal joint which shattered as I tried to undo the shock top mounting bolt. Hence putting an extension onto the spanner the other end. It's best to undo the nut, not try to undo the bolt if you know what I mean.

Blimey,i've had my rear shock out 3 times,never touched the battery/box/rear mudguard or lower header bolt,just silencer/hugger/rear wheel off,undo top shock bolt, bottom shock bolt,and knock the sleeve out,and the shock comes out.

If you order a Wilbers or any other shock check the spec,they are most certainely not all the same(standard spec that is)

[malc]

I have removed my swing arm for powder coating & have had real trouble with the lower suspension bottom bearing that triumph very kindly do not list as a part at all & this is what Ive found.

I have removed the whole shock from the bike & have managed to push out the bearing & have found a bearing number that fits I will post pics up after the bank holiday when the bearing shop is open but I have checked with simplybearings.co.uk & its available the number required is

IKO YT1725
or
IKO TA1725

Inside diameter 17mm
outside diameter 24mm
width 25mm

Hope this will help anyone finding a replacement cause I can.t understand why triumph do not list it very strange.

[Chris Canning]

I'll be interested to see how you get on having your arm powder coated,the factory anodise them,if the powder isn't really thin or the guy doesn't spend a fair amount of time masking it,you'll be on a steep/time consuming curve.

[cba191]

Ok. I got the top bolt out, but the bottom one is giving me fits. How did you guys get that torx bolt out?  there were pics at one time, but they're gone now.