Shock removal

[Pip]

Hi  Newbie here

Many apologies if this has been covered before but i'm in the process of replacing my old shock.  Managed to the remove the top mounting bolt (many a skinned knuckle) and also the bottem one.....(great design with the exhaust lowers there triumph!!)  But could someone enlighten me in how on earth i remove the hollow shaft linking the s/a with the lower eyebolt of the shock

Your confused

Pip

[Sasquatch]

BFH


(Big Freaking Hammer)

[Pip]

ani dea of what sort and size of drift / punch to go along with the BFH  :?:  :?:  :lol:

[Advwannabe]

Have you got it out yet Pip?

Started on my Hagon replacement today. I had a 10 mm brass drift I was able to gently tap the bush out with, but I suppose if you were doing it properly you'd make up a stepped drift with the smaller step @ 8mm to locate the drift and the step about 12.

Mine wasn't in that tight, good luck with yours.

The Triumph shock runs on needle roller bearings, but my Hagon just has a machined brass bush. I assume this is O.k? I'm flicking Hagon an email to ask them too but if anyone knows and can tell me that would be great!

[Advwannabe]

Snappy reply from Hagon, the brass bush IS the new bearing. Went and gave the bush a gentle twist, spins freely. D'oh!  :oops:

[Stretch]

Take pics and write a How-To?   8)

[Advwannabe]

Sorry Stretch, didn't think. Next time. Been having a look through your how tos. Great Idea!

[zombie]

Okay I just replaced my Hagon with a fully adjustable Hagon.
So here goes nothing.

Remove rear wheel and exhaust can , no need to remove the down pipes.
For the top shock mount I use a long 3/8" extension with a knuckle joint for flexibilty see below
place a 17 mm wrench on the nut on the left and your extension with your torx on the right and remove..see pic

[zombie]

next is the lower shock mount , remove the plastic covers and again use the long extension with the knuckle joint for the left hand side , at this stage you will be able to move the swingarm up and down slightly with the top bolt removed and this will give you room to put the extension in.
There are 2 washers on eith side of the bolt and I use a long nose pliers to get the one on the left side that holds the nut..
At this stage you will see the shaft that the shock rides on
again see below.
Now for the good bit
I got a long 3/8" extension and modified it on my bench grinder by hitting the top with a big hammer and then rounding out both ends until I got a nice fit to drift out the spacer ,  and it all lined up correctly

[zombie]

At this stage you will line up your drift and start hitting with  a hammer until the spacer starts to move, It's really important to make sure you are lined up correctly.

[zombie]

In extreme cases where the spacer will just not budge which happened to me after Alaska  , I had to remove the swingarm and turn it on its side with shock attached and beat the snot out of it to remove the shock..

After you get the spacer out I like to oil it and clean it up with emory paper to make sure it's nice and smooth

[zombie]

Now it's time to put the whole thing back together .
I put the spacer in from the LEFT side by lining it up and gently tapping it in until it's lined up and then driving it thru
Line up the bottom shock mount and tap the spacer until it's starting to set into the bottom shock mount. Be careful at this stage to line eveything up nicely and your all set.
Then torque the bolt top and botton to 30foot lbs and your all set
Hope this helps and then finish with a nice cuppa tea and a digestive.

[Mustang]

I love the sticker . .......where can I get one ?

[Bixxer Bob]

First,  this is not a criticism, but I'm not a great fan of whacking anything with BFHs - especially if it's light alloy.  I much prefer science over brute force.   (As an example,  in my days as an engineering manger, I walked onto the shop floor one day to see two technicians bashing seven shades out of a coupler as they tried to unscrew it from the end of a hydraulic ram which had about a 3 inch thread.  They were doing a lot of surface damage to what was a piece of kit worth over a thousand dollars and integral to safety as it had to raise about 20 tons.  After shouting myself hoarse to make myself heard over the banging, I put a 10 ft length of scaffolding pole through the coupler and unscrewed it with one hand.  Then we had to send it away for flaw detection to make sure the damage wasn't serious).

Having said that, I recognise that for some jobs it's simply not possible,  and even if it were,  most folks don't have access to the necessary sleeves and bolts etc to make up presses or pullers.  In this case, I've not had to do this job yet so I'm not sure it can be solved easily.

If I'm right,  it would need a shaft, long enough to go through the spacer from one side and protrude from the swing arm on the other, just under 8mm in dia with a 10mm dia end and the 8mm protruding part threaded so that a collar can be placed over it, against the swing arm and then  you could screw down the nut to pull the spacer out?

If that sounds about right,  I could perhaps develop a tool that would work, using my 2005 Girly for fit.  Maybe even produce a few,  but would have to charge for materials plus shipping.

[Stretch]

Awesome!  Thanks for the write-up, Zombie.  I'm going to link this to 'Girly Wisdom'.