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Poor running

Started by chairhead, February 16, 2014, 03:03:22 PM

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chairhead

I'm at my wits end,

it would be great if anyone could shed some light on my Poor running problem,

Bike starts ok, key in ignition and  turn on, pull clutch lever in and push start button, bike fires up, revs go up to about 1500rpm for about 3-4 seconds then drops to below 1000rpm for 3-4 seconds and then cuts out, to start the bike again I have to open the throttle and keep it open otherwise it will just cut out, and I have to keep it open for a good 5 mins before I can let go and the bike runs by its self and then its sounds like its not firing on all three properly, more like 2 1/2.

Because of the persistent problem I have changed

Loom
coils
spark plugs
air filter
and today the IACV

Because of this problem the fuel consumption is awful 100 miles = 20 litres , yes there is a sidecar to TIC, but when it runs right I can nearly double the mileage.

Plugging the Triumph diagnostic tool shows 1 DTC PO463 which is fuel sensor high input, I clear this and re-upload the aftermarket tune start the bike and it runs better.....until the next day when I try to start it and im back to square one.

Im really left scratching my head here and cannot fathom it out, does anyone else know of these symptoms or can point me in the right direction or has ideas what going on?

cheers
03 Girly Roulette Green with a Hedingham ETH
TOR can
Wilbers shock & wasp L/L forks
Taylormade Billet wheel

exchead

when you say u changed the coils and spark plugs did u also change the plug caps,most of my bike experience is dirt bikes and the plug caps are notorious for breaking down and running rough just a thought

chairhead

Quote from: exchead on February 16, 2014, 03:23:57 PM
when you say u changed the coils and spark plugs did u also change the plug caps,most of my bike experience is dirt bikes and the plug caps are notorious for breaking down and running rough just a thought

Its all in one mate  :icon_wink:
03 Girly Roulette Green with a Hedingham ETH
TOR can
Wilbers shock & wasp L/L forks
Taylormade Billet wheel

Chris Canning

Going off what you have put the first thing I'd do is change the lamba,my interpretation of your post the diagnostic is telling you and you deleting and ignoring it or is my assumption wrong? or did you change the lamba with the loom  :icon_scratch:

chairhead

I haven't changed the lambda sensor, as for ignoring what the diagnostic tool is telling me I guess I am....but how can I address the fuel sensor high input, and what does it mean?
03 Girly Roulette Green with a Hedingham ETH
TOR can
Wilbers shock & wasp L/L forks
Taylormade Billet wheel

Chris Canning

There's war and piece on the net about running a bike without a lamba full stop disconnect it and see what happens but alternatively it's the first thing I'd be changing

Bixxer Bob

And they are cheap on ebay if you're happy to cut and join the connector wires.

I'll have a look at that fault code in a minute, but - assuming the lambda is ok - I'd be checking the battery voltage.  Because it runs ok at first after a tune reload, it sounds to me as though the the ECU isn't able to save the trim values to memory when you turn the ign off.  I've written about this before and (from memory anyway) it needs at least 12.5 volts to be able to write, so the battery voltage with the engine off has to be 12.5v or better.  Check the voltage across the battery with the ign on but the engine not running.

I had similar problems this summer, even with a new battery,  which I never totally fixed until I fitted a new mosfet regulator. I found the same as Chris, the bike instantly ran heaps better without doing anything else too it.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

chairhead

Ok all noted,

throw into the mix that its running really rich, and especially on number 1(2 and 3 are fine), im going to look at the Oxygen sensor (if I can find it), change the battery and fuel pipe O rings.
03 Girly Roulette Green with a Hedingham ETH
TOR can
Wilbers shock & wasp L/L forks
Taylormade Billet wheel

Bixxer Bob

Ok, the fuel sensor code isn't covered in the manual.  I think it relates to the fuel sender in the tank but will have to do more reading.  What it doesn't do is relate to the Lambada, it has it's own set of fault codes.

The manual points to the IACV for the symptoms you describe.  Cycle it with TuneECU to check the new one is working ok and that the pipes don't have any cracks, leaks and are not blocked.  You DID reset the closed throttle position when you reloaded the tune didn't you?  Did you follow the procedure properly? (It matters. A lot.)
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Bixxer Bob

Just read your last post; are the throttle bodies balanced spot on?
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Bixxer Bob

Ah, if it's stupidly rich, enough to double your consumption, but only on one pot, I'd be checking for a stuck injector (although the running ok after a reload still points to trim storing). If it's rich on all three but worst on one then I think TB balance plus something telling the ECU it needs more fuel than it actually does which points to a baro sensor / air temp sensor / engine temp fault.

Take it a step at a time:

Battery first cos it's easy to do.

Re-check IACV, hoses etc to make sure.

Check TB balance.

If it's still doing it, swap injector 1 for 2 or 3 and see if the richness follows it. If it does, you have a bad injector.

Good luck, and don't forget the throttle position reset.

I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

chairhead

I've checked the pipes for cracks and splits
QuoteCycle it with TuneECU to check the new one is working ok
how do I do this?

QuoteYou DID reset the closed throttle position when you reloaded the tune didn't you?  Did you follow the procedure properly? (It matters. A lot.)

I followed the procedure with the Actia, is this what you mean?
03 Girly Roulette Green with a Hedingham ETH
TOR can
Wilbers shock & wasp L/L forks
Taylormade Billet wheel

Bixxer Bob

I'm not familiar with Actia mate.  In TuneECU (free to download and I would guess your Actia cable will work with it if it's USB) there's a button to click which resets the throttle position.   With the engine warmed up and off, Turn ign on, click the reset TPS button, start engine, allow to idle for at least 30 secs.

Also, it's worth doing an "adaptation". Here's how as taken from the TECU manual:

Bike in neutral
Engine temp 80-96 deg C
Min airbox temp 21 deg C
Pull in the clutch and blip the revs to 3000 revs and let it drop back to idle then letcit idle for at least 30 seconds still with the clutch pulled.
Check it's adapted by looking at the lambda reading, it should be toggling + / - 4
IACV steps should be 20-35.

I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Bixxer Bob

Bugger, I just noticed it's an 03. You have a MC1000 ECU? (Two plugs....)
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...

Chris Canning

Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 07:24:27 PM
And they are cheap on ebay if you're happy to cut and join the connector wires.

Mine is like all the others I've got unscrew out the pipe and unplug out of the loom or are we getting our lamba's crossed!!