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Exhaust Link-pipe

Started by Beernard, May 11, 2015, 09:37:36 AM

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Beernard

Hi All. I have a problem and hope someone can assist me. I have been a follower of the site for some years and am impressed by the collective knowledge and friendly attitudes of the members. Thanks for reading on.
I am installing an SW Motech centrestand to my 93 model. With help from CBAT's excellent "How-to" I have come to the point of removing the exhaust link-pipe. Unfortunately, the join in the link-pipe is frozen. I have had a good crack at freeing it as I assume the two sides can then be removed separately (BTW - is that the case?). If I am on the right track here, can anyone give me a tip to freeing this join? I have given it a few good drinks of WD40 and some good hits with a rubber hammer to no avail. I am also loathe to break something.
If I am unsuccessful, I suppose I then have to take off the entire exhaust. Is that correct?
I look forward to all replies.
Ripper, woke up again.

ram33

tiger 885 / fzs1000
bmw 335d / rr evoque

Sin_Tiger

 :iagree they should come apart with gentle heat if required. It's a while since I fitted a centre stand (was SW Motech as well) but I don't recll having to move the exhaust  :icon_scratch:
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

Mustang

pull the mufflers than pull the linkpipe off as an assembly , its way easier
it should look like an "H" when off the bike

nickjtc

#4
Quote from: Mustang on May 11, 2015, 02:01:46 PM
pull the mufflers than pull the linkpipe off as an assembly , its way easier
it should look like an "H" when off the bike

What he said! If you are lucky you will get success just by loosening everything off, as in my case:

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13380.msg98801.html#msg98801
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

Beernard

Thanks, everyone. I suppose I should have added a pic to illustrate, so here goes (I hope).
When I pull the link-pipe back it hits the suspension linkage. There is no way there is enough play in the header/link-pipe joint to lower the link-pipe enough to remove it (unless I am missing something). I am hoping that when I use Sin's suggestion of heat, the link-pipe will separate and I will take a piece from each side. How does that sound?
Thanks again, everyone, for your help.
Ripper, woke up again.

Mustang

lower the suspension link first (you gotta replace the bolts anyway )
then remove exhaust

Beernard

Thanks, Mustang. The mounting bolt for linkage to frame can't be withdrawn because the link-pipe is in the way. So I am assuming you mean undo the dog-bones and shock, swing the linkage up and then pull the link-pipe. Is that the case? I can see this also allows for an inspection and lube, which is probably due (80,000k). Hope I am on the right track!!
Ripper, woke up again.

Beernard

Got it! My pic will show that I have undone shock bolt and dog-bone bolt. I was then able to pull the shock to one side and slide the bottom link upwards (hard up against the side of the shock). This then allowed me enough room to pull the link-pipe. Woo hoo!!! After that little shit was off, all was well!!! For info, the joiner for the link-pipe was so tight, there is no way I could have ever have wriggled the little stinker out. Thanks, Mustang. Now back to the issue of a bloody centre-stand!!!
PS Spose I should chuck in a pic of the rig before the work.
Ripper, woke up again.

Beernard

Errr, here she is. At Armidale with Mum and Dad.
Ripper, woke up again.

Beernard

Well, there is always more. Checked out the suspension linkage and all the seals are rooted and the Shock bearing is even more rooted. The other 2 bearings are fine. Hmm. I go to the spare bike and rip out the shock bearing............ Heavens to Murgatroyd!
This is detailed in TR5Trider's "Suspension lubrication" thread. I asked this question already in TR's thread, but is this a common problem, or have I just inherited 2 poorly-maintained rigs? I will attach a pic of the "good" linkage. The other one has a much more chopped-up and deeply-grooved "Tube-between-the-bearing-and-the mounting bolt". I also see that the failed bearings seem to be of a different construction to the 2 big, perfect bearings. Is that true, or has the bearing failed catastrophically?
Thanks for everything, Beernard.
Ripper, woke up again.

Bixxer Bob

They all do it mate, and not just Steamers.  Servicing the bottom bearing is a PITA but it has to be done or else you get that sort of result.   Next time mine's apart I'm fitting a grease nipple. It doesn't have one at the moment and it's easy enough to do.
I don't want to achieve immortality through prayer, I want to achieve it through not dying...