AGAIN.. start problem?

[Marc]

   AGAIN! (6 weeks later)

yes, after replacing my battery (Motobatt) good readings no problems.

Yesterday I had a good run (100km) and a break, not possible to start.  A few revs and nothing.  I was able to start and leave with the help of two mates puch the bike.  A few miles later.... same symptoms as a few weeks ago (see first post).

On the way home rev counter died followed by the ODO and at last the speedo

Worse... also the temp got into the red zone, and trotle response was very bad.  I had to leave the bike. 

This morning went to pick up the bike (battery 11,65V, 13,45 at idll) but was able to start and run home, but de orange engine led stayed on.

A mate said he had a similar problem with his Trophy due to the loom squeezed under the tank/battery box. (??)

I'll check the cabling, but all help appreciated.

Thanks

[Marc]

Two months ago I replaced the original R/R (was still ok.) by a japanese shindengen one, as I often read on this forum the original R/R can cause trouble sooner or later.
By checking a few points today (see earlier post) this is what I found: 

(http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/RR_zpsbcae2e0d.jpg.html)

Can this be the cause of the above posted trouble??  anyway I think I'm screwed 

In the meantime I put the ST one back again, engine starts directly but orange Engine Management Indicator light stays on 

Or have I to wait 3 cycles before it normalizes?

[John Stenhouse]

3 Cycles before it will turn off and it's because the bike thinks the battery has been disconnected. I would also check the wiring on the ignition switch the solder connectiions on the back degrade and break.

[Marc]

3 Cycles before it will turn off and it's because the bike thinks the battery has been disconnected.

Yes, I read I somewhere on the forum from Mustang.  But It's the first time the led stays on, although I often disconnected the batt in the past 

[Marc]

wiring on ignition switch OK.

dit 3 cycles run, but EM led stays on.

I read 13,35V at batt  -  13,85 at idll and 14,35 at 3000 rpm

[John Stenhouse]

Well the voltages are fine, the three cycles is from cold to hot not just three rides.

[Marc]

Thanks John, I thought the fan had do come on for 3 times 

[metalguru]

Have a read up on using TuneEcu as this can read the DTC that is causing the EML to light.
Can also put it out and has very good diagnostics.

[Marc]

Have a read up on using TuneEcu as this can read the DTC that is causing the EML to light.
Can also put it out and has very good diagnostics.

Yes, I'll consider that.

[rex007can]

First time I disconnected the battery to do the sasquatch mod, light came on.

Next time I disconnected everything to upgrade the regulator. Light didn't come on...

I guess they're just temperamental like that.

[Marc]

So far, everything seems to be OK, EM led was out after 2 cycle 

BUT .. I'm still wondering why the temp meter went into the red??  Does the broken R/R affect the radiator fan sensor??
Just interested to know 

[John Stenhouse]

My guess would be that they're electrical guages and when the power is crazy the guage acts up too

[Bixxer Bob]

Only a guess because I haven't read the whole thread, but if the reg/rec is fubar'd and is pushing out more than 14v the guage will over-read accordingly.

[metalguru]

 

Yes it will and give an EML illumination.

[Marc]

     thank you guy's !