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Fuel tap woes

Started by ssevy, May 24, 2014, 11:09:25 PM

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ssevy

No. but my sister had a Plymouth Cricket, which was even worse!
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

Sin_Tiger

I think that's the same as what was sold in the UK (Rootes) as a Hillman Avenger (or vengeful as some dubbed them), bizarrely they did a "Sport" version in Yellow with a black stripe over a rear wing a la Starsky & Hutch and it was sold as a "Tiger" model  :icon_scratch:
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

ssevy

Okay, I've done some research and here's some info that may be useful.
First off, Caswell tells me that sealing the area where the petcock is located should provide a barrier between the fuel and the JB Welded adapter plate. However, he said the ethanol effects on plastic tanks is getting worse, and he would recommend sealing the entire tank to prevent this. Of course, my adapter plate and petcock is now JB Welded in place, so this would require taking them back off. Read on...

I then called JB Weld and described my problem. The friendly young lady said that there are two types of plastic used for fuel tanks, and the standard JB Weld doesn't always stick well. The product to use is called JB Weld PlasticBonder (not to be confused with their PlasticWeld, which is different).

So, I plan to take the petcock back off, hopefully not breaking anything in the process, and then try the PlasticBonder. I am also going to seal the entire interior of the tank to prevent the ethanol issue.

I did get a price on a new tank from Triumph, over $900 in my color but with no decals. The decals are only about $50 a pop, so if I end up ruining this tank, I guess I'll be looking on ebay. Keeping my fingers crossed...
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

nickjtc

Quote from: ssevy on May 27, 2014, 07:05:59 PM
However, he said the ethanol effects on plastic tanks is getting worse, and he would recommend sealing the entire tank to prevent this.

Oh joy!
"That which does not kill us reminds us to wear motorcycle specific clothing!"

coachgeo

Quote from: nickjtc on May 27, 2014, 07:32:55 PM
Quote from: ssevy on May 27, 2014, 07:05:59 PM
However, he said the ethanol effects on plastic tanks is getting worse, and he would recommend sealing the entire tank to prevent this.

Oh joy!
hmmm.. I wonder if my tank which will now live only with Diesel in it... will shrink back to shape?  hmmm
COACH POSER (Till Tribota Tiger's done & I'm riding it)

rf9rider

Just one question, what did you use to seal the threads where the Pingel tap screws into the adaptor block?

I had trouble with sealing that?

ssevy

JB Welded the entire thing. Now I wish I had made a few calls first, but it set up so well that I think I am going to run it like this until it begins to leak, and then do the Caswell kit and the new JB Weld.
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

Mustang

Quote from: ssevy on May 28, 2014, 12:26:15 AM
JB Welded the entire thing. Now I wish I had made a few calls first, but it set up so well that I think I am going to run it like this until it begins to leak, and then do the Caswell kit and the new JB Weld.
I have a tank on the 96 that had a spinning faring insert . It ended up with a severe gas leak  :icon_redface: oops ! you aint the only one that screws up .

I reused the insert and plain ol every day regular JB weld on it and it doesn't leak a drop going on 2 years now .
maybe the stuff they can get in UK is different ?
or depends how much mix you use for the two part epoxy ..........not enough hardener ?
any how if I was a bettin man , I would say you won't have to screw with it .
ever hear of Kreme coat tank liner ....is it the same as the caswell stuff ?
reason I ask is because the nice shiny white liner that you bond to the inside of your tank only stays stuck in place for a year or so then turns into a funky ass balloon floating around inside your gas tank .

rf9rider

Maybe the JB weld is different here in the UK to the USA?

Next plan for my tank is to use an original tap, with an adaptor plate and a gasket made from vitrile rubber, which is supposed to be resistant to fuel etc.

If that fails, i`ll have to use my spare tank and get that re-sprayed, which means more expense i could do without!

Be interested to see how Ssevy gets on with this.


ssevy

I had read about the Kreme and other brands peeling off, and discovered the Caswell stuff with some research. It has been awesome in my Legend, and it is the only stuff I would ever use. I did such a good job with the JB Weld this time, I think I will just try it as is. I am assuming if it does begin to leak, it will be a small seep at first and not a torrential fail. I have also thought that cutting off the two insert pockets from the outside carefully, and then fabricating an aluminum backing plate to drop inside the tank might be a good answer. Drilled and tapped for the Pingel adapter, it would essentially make a three layer sandwich, with the plastic tank being the center layer. Nothing to pull out or work loose, and would be a better and more solid base for the tap. It wouldn't take much to make one. The careful work would be in getting the two pockets cut out cleanly and leaving enough material to be firmly clamped by the two metal plates.
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

rf9rider

As i said, the JB weld lasted a couple of months on mine, it didn`t fail all at once, it just went all gooey over time and eventually the fuel seeped through, i noticed the smell of fuel first.

Just keep checking it regularly, you`ll see the difference from hard to soft if it goes off.

Good luck with it.  :thumbsup

Sin_Tiger

Quote from: ssevy on May 28, 2014, 01:34:51 AM
I have also thought that cutting off the two insert pockets from the outside carefully, and then fabricating an aluminum backing plate to drop inside the tank might be a good answer.

After seeing photos (think it was London Phil) of a tank that had been cut up the same thought had crossed my mind. As you say, looks easy until you try working inside the tank through the filler neck  :BangHead

I have a complete set of red plastics, including a tank, not sure what flavour of red it is, only thing is it's had the microdot treatment. I'll happily swap for a blue set  :bad 
I used to have long hair, took acid and went to hip joints. Now I long for hair, take antacid and need a new hip joint

ssevy

Well, when I walked into the garage this evening, I was greeted with the smell of fresh gasoline, and sure enough, the JB Weld has started to loosen from the petcock. Just a drip right now, but I did over 400 miles yesterday with it, and maybe all of the road vibrations worked it loose? In any case, I am going to order some of the JB Weld Plastibonder, and carefully remove the petcock and then decide whether to try to make a backing plate. I have the Caswell kit already, and I am thinking that I will remove the Pingel from the mounting block, then mount the block, and then seal over the inside with the Caswell. That way, no fuel should contact the repair. Leaving the 26th for a two week trip, and the perfect running was just too good to be true I guess!
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

ssevy

I may not be big, but I'm slow.

ram33

#29
maybe better to rough the chrome up with a coarse grinder to give it a better key?
would it be better to try some nitrile rubber between the joints
only £1.85 inc del for 125x125x2 sheet
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NITRILE-OIL-RESISTANT-BLACK-RUBBER-SHEET-VARIOUS-SHEET-SIZES-THICKNESSES-/261366810639?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3cdaad080f
tiger 885 / fzs1000
bmw 335d / rr evoque