Some observations on Steamer tune up procedures

[nickjtc]

Just completed a top-to-bottom going over of Stanley in preparation for an Alaska trip I will be making with riding buddy Gerry on his spanking new KTM 1190 next month.

The whole process took an easy two days (probably 8 hours in total). It would have been quicker but when I had put everything back together I realised I had forgotten to replace the two shrouds on top of the engine so the plastic and tank all had to come off again. 

I used the Triumph official manual + various threads from this august forum.

Checking the valves was quite straight forward and they were all comfortably within tolerance, so no faffing around with shim replacement. The cam cover gasket seemed quite 'rubbery' so I re-used it, despite having got a new one, just in case.

I've mentioned previously that getting an after market spark plug socket in the centre plug hole is a challenge with the cam cover on. No problem with it off. I think I will shorten the valve check interval to coincide with spark plug replacement (12,000miles/20,000km rather than 18,000mile/30,000km) just to make the process simpler, and then kill two feathers with one bird.

Carb removal for air filter cleaning was a breeze, following the instructions closely. The rubbers on the bike are quite flexible so it really was not a chore. The Thunderbike crash bars are an extremely convenient place to rest the carbs so that the throttle cable does not need to be unhooked. The PO had fitted a K&N filter which I cleaned and re-used. However it seemed as if the filter was a tad too big, forcing the two halves of the filter box to not mate properly. A quick trim with an x-acto knife solved that problem and negated the need for using silicone to make an air tight seal.  I rotated the clamp bands on the centre carb so that the screws are accessible from above.

The Morgan Carbtune worked very slickly. A minor adjustment on carbs 1 and 2 was all that was necessary. I found no need for an auxiliary fuel container. With a suitable work stand, high enough to support the fuel tank, there was enough length in the fuel line to have it sitting next to the bike. And having the bike running during the balancing process meant that I could check for new leaks in the cam cover, re-using the old gasket.

I like fettling my bikes and this initial experience with a Steamer was very positive.

[98steamer20493]

when I did my plugs a used a magnet to get the plug out of the center hole it worked great, I also used it to put the new plug in (careful not to drop it). a set of needle nose pliers and a normal chrome socket worked wonders. cheers!

[Nick Calne]

Fiddly job, so good idea.

[Sin_Tiger]

I had to modify an extension shorter to be able to use the mag socket on the middle plug. Only a genuine Triumph box spanner seems to fit.

[badrooster]

Amazing adventure!  A note on tune ups.  Given the time, if the carbs or throttle body's are off already, I soak each intake port with a professional carbon cleaner overnight, one at a time.  Then blow out with compressed air.  Will greatly benefit engine operation, depending on carbon build up on ports and valves.  Can improve cold weather operation where a lean mixture is not helpful.

[ssevy]

A magnet on one of those retractable antenna stalks works great for removing the plugs, as well as the plug socket, if it falls off . For installation, a short piece of rubber fuel line is ideal. Be sure it is snug over the porcelain, and when you insert the new plug, first turn it counterclockwise, until you feel the "click" as the threads drop into place. Then screw the plug in clockwise until the friction of the threads overcomes the friction of the rubber on the porcelain and you can pull the rubber hose off and out. This prevents you from cross threading the plug. I also use compressed air to blow out the plug holes when I have the boots off, but before I loosen the plugs themselves.
I bought a Wiha ball end hex driver which makes reaching the manifold rubber clamps much easier. I also gently wire brush and re-lube the clamps themselves whenever I have them out, besides spraying them with some Boeshield T9 to prevent corrosion. Makes the next time so much easier!
Last thing:  even though the Iridium plugs will go 100,000 miles with no problem, getting them out will be a nightmare. Not a bad idea to loosen them and re-tighten them every couple of years so when they do need to come out, they will.

[Nick Calne]

A very good point.

[fishnbiker]

I use a standard long socket that has a wad of elastic duct caulking in the bottom. Think sticky chewing gum. Same bit has been there some 24 years since I bought my Tiger. A 15cm extension with a U-joint adapter make it turn. I push my small finger into the socket to push the wad together. The spark plug tip gets stuck in the wad & pulls out easily. No mess or stickiness left on the plug. Insert is easy too.

[ssevy]

Reminds me of that old story of the two bikers sitting in a biker bar. The first one keeps rolling this blob between his thumb and finger tip while he says "Looks like plastic, but feels like rubber..."
After watching this behavior for a few minutes, the stranger next to him says "Let me see that...", so the first biker hands it over. The second biker says "You're right...it does look like plastic, but it definitely feels more like rubber...where did you find this, anyways?" "In my nose" the first replied.

[fishnbiker]