2005 Tiger 955i stepper motor help

[nigeh]

I was thinking that too BB!

A good layer of gasket sealant should work but I will wait for the paper gasket to arrive and then use both as you suggest.

I may go on the hunt and see if I can find some, if it exists, gasket paper so I can cut my own out!

[Sin_Tiger]

You used to be able to buy small sheets in motor factors but I haven't seen any in a long time, I guess the demand isn't there anymore.

I've regularly used navigation charts as thinner gasket but you probably don't have access to that. Any thick paper or thin card will do, even thick flyers or old calendars will do it. Box it against the joint, is you lightly grease the joint first it helps to hold it in place and makes the markings easier to see. Then rub the edge of a spanner around the edge and over the holes, put a couple of bolts or screws in to aid location. Don't be tempted to tap as you can damage the edge, especially with alloy. Then remove it and cut around the markings.

Forgive me if this is teaching you to sup soup but it might help someone else.

[nigeh]

Cheers for that, I may well have a go if I can't wait until early next week!

In fact I could do it first to see if it was the gasket then swap it for the proper one when it arrives!

[Bixxer Bob]

If it fixes the problem I'd leave the bugger alone and keep the gasket until next time

[nigeh]

Good point, well made!

[metalguru]

While you have the inlet manifold off replace the TPS as a matter of course. It will be worn out at that miles.
There was a Scottoiler fitted and reading the text the joint was re-made, to be honest for the price of 5mm silicon vacuum tube just replace the convoluted tubes, I'll bet there is a leak there somewhere, as they loosen their grip on the inlet stubs.
Get it all set to std settings for now and see where it is running badly. Don't forget that after each download the TPS will need resetting and adaptation procedure carried out. Make sure Throttle Bodies are balanced EXACTLY as very important. Be aware, there are 4 stubs on the IACV and one is blanked off, make sure connections are correct. Remapping should only be carried out when ALL service adjustments are within tolerance or you will waste days trying to get it to run correctly. Also unless you write down every adjustment you make it is impossible to remember what has been done so carry out one at a time. While the tank is off, check the shims, and remove the Airbox baffle. Drill another inlet hole opposite the Snorkel on the Airbox the same size, all helps by small amounts to refined running.

That should keep you going for a couple of hours.

Load the Triumph off road map and not the A/F map. Report back any running issues ie surging and can show fix, although the slight differences you looked at on my map make very big changes on the bike so tread carefully.

[nigeh]

Thanks metalguru

Was thinking of changing the TPS but have not ordered one, yet!

I have changed all the vacuum pipes from the IACV to manifold and the one from air box to ECU.

I have done the TPS reset a few times all be it I am not sure if it actually works even though the message 'TPS done' appears on the TuneECU screen!

I will look at the shims this weekend and will 'hack' the airbox around too!

Will come back when I have managed to do all these things because as you say it should keep me out of trouble for a couple of hours!!!! 

Cheers

[metalguru]

After the TPS test done appears the engine must be run until the TPS beacon glows green on TuneEcu.

BTW be careful when opening up the airbox for the second snorkel as the airbox temp sensor is mounted there.

[nigeh]

Thanks for that MG!  I just read up about it on the Tuneecu spiel too so will be doing that when bike is back together.

While waiting for this inlet gasket to arrive, decided to wait for the real thing rather than make my own!, I did pull the rocker cover and check the shims, finally!

As far as I can see I am not going to be changing any of them as they are as follows:

Exhaust - 0.19, 0.21, 0.19, 0.21, 0.17, 0.17

Inlet - 0.16, 0.14, 0.14, 0.12, 0.18, 0.15

I have a few over the limit but not going to change them out yet as sure there is another 25,000 miles before I next need to check them, bike has done 42,000 miles now and that is the first time they have been checked!

I was going to order a new TPS but mine seems fine, showing 0.55v, and feels very smooth when you rotate it so will leave it just now.  I thought I had read somewhere that you can adjust them but no obvious way to do it as the housing has no rotational movement where the bolts go through it!  I was going to get it to 0.59v but will just leave as is for now as parts bill is rising and don't want to throw too much at it as bike is 9 years old now, the longest I have ever owned a bike in 33 years of motorcycling and it may be moved on if all this work does not fix it!!

Now just going to clean up all the bits I rarely get to see on the bike while waiting for gasket, saves twiddling thumbs, or cutting the hedge!!!

[metalguru]

Your choice as it's your bike, BUT, somewhere on one of BixxerBobs writings he suspected a TPS and although the voltage was in tolerance, when it was connected to an oscilloscope definite spikes were found with the track inside. Ok they are about £70 so a bit dear. At that miles the track will be worn especially at the 0-1/4 throttle position and can be ONE of the causes of your problems as a TPS reset has not cured the problem with the high idle.
Good time to change the inlet manifold soft cheese screws to stainless too.

Just saying as we have been there before!!

[nigeh]

Cheers metalguru

To be honest I was hoping it would be fixed after the new stepper, inlet gasket, shim check, etc, etc so I put it back together this afternoon as gasket arrived and took a test ride this evening and............ it is exactly the same as before!!!!!!  On one hand I was being impatient and just wanted to put it all back together but I did think of ordering a new TPS!

I am now ordering a new TPS tonight and thanks to the crap positioning of the TPS by Triumph I am going to have to strip it all down again 

I did change the inlet manifold bolts for stainless 'allen head' ones as BB suggested in a earlier post and the original ones did look a bit flimsy!

I do agree that as the TPS spends most of its time at zero to quarter throttle then it will, as you say, be worn.  I did read that post from BixxerBob re using an oscilloscope.

Interestingly the tickover is down to around 1200 rpm and the stepper has set itself to -7

Will let you know what changes when the TPS arrives.

Cheers 

[Bixxer Bob]

Just be careful you are reading the shim situation correctly, they are the opposite to tappets.  A shim gap will get smaller and quieter with age until the valve has no clearance at all due to the valve wearing into the cylinder head.  Whereas tappet gaps used to get bigger and more noisey with age.  For shims noisey is good.

Just to refresh my memory, the tickover is now about right but it hesitates on high gear roll on at low revs?  Does it pull cleanly if you're really going for it higher up the revs?   Reason I ask is if it's bogging at low revs when you open the throttle it's not seeing the correct drop in pressure in the airbox that will tell the ECU that the engine is under 100% load and so is not using the correct part of the fuel map.  Before spending any more money (you can always get your money back on the TPS if it's on it's way) Make sure that the box is properly sealed downstream of the air filter, and that the filter is in the right way.  This is a new theory of mine which you may well be able to prove, so you are looking at elbow grommet, oil pipe clip, and tube from airbox to ECU, IACV gasket, throttle body rubbers.  I found, due to some distortion in the airbox, the IACV gasket didn't seal properly on mine and needed a little help care of some 3mm soft rubber sheet.  I found out by using a light shone around the IACV and looking into the airbox with the filter removed.

[nigeh]

I am positive I have the correct readings for the shims, and they were double checked by a friend who is well used to doing this sort of work on bikes so the gaps I have are excellent based on age/mileage of the bike.

Bike hesitates at low revs in low/high gears in fact when bike is ticking over it has a rough (almost running on two) tickover but when blipped hard it clears and revs fine.  If you rev the bike up 'gently' it does not hesitate!  When it is higher up the revs, going for it as you say, it pulls cleanly with no hesitation.

I have a K&N air filter and am sure it will only go in one way round but will check! I will check all the seals etc on the airbox using your method of light shining and see what happens.

As of this minute I have not actually ordered the TPS as waiting for someone to come back to me with a price so will do this before I commit.

Will report back

Cheers

[Bixxer Bob]

I wasn't suggesting you were wrong about the shims, just making sure you had the correct understanding of why the gaps close up instead of getting bigger as we old farts are used to.  Some folks think an upper limit gap needs a thicker shim when in fact it's fine, it's the lower limit shims that folks think are ok but really need thinner shims that are the worry.  Folks leave them alone thinking the gap will get bigger and then are gobsmacked when it closes completely and burns a valve.

[nigeh]

Thankfully I am more 'old school' too and decided that a larger gap is good and did not plan on putting even a slightly larger shim in to reduce the gap.

To be honest I was surprised that the gaps were so good considering mileage and the fact that other members seem to have had to replace shims at low mileages!

Going to shine a torch at the airbox later today!!