Will valve tap equal shim clearance issues?

[Roadinator]

Started to get some (what sounds like to me) some valve tap.  Started about a thousand miles ago.  Bike has 60k and it looks like the last shim/valve clearance check was done about 25k ago.  Does valve tap equal out of clearance shims?  My plan was to ride it for another month and then check the shims when I take some time to work on it during the winter. 

Could it be something else or does this sound typical of a 60k motor? (value tap not really loud, but I notice it and it is consistent with the motor running).

[Mustang]

loose shims won't bother anything , but generally the shims get quieter not louder as the clearances hardly ever get bigger , only smaller !

I would be more suspect of timing chain and / or adjuster and  guide wear . All three should really be changed as a set if that is in fact whats making the noise .

[Roadinator]

Thanks Mustang.  I'm guessing riding another month won't be a big deal.  Is that something I can check before replacing or just do it when I check the shims.  I'm also guessing you have to go a little deeper in the motor to replace the timing chain and adjuster.  Wondering if this is getting over my head...

[Sin_Tiger]

If the timing's (no pun intended) not good for you, give it an oil change to keep you going.

[Roadinator]

I listened to it while running this evening.  Seems to bet on the right side (rear brake side).  Not sure if that means anything.  It also seems to get a little better after running a bit.

[Mustang]

thats the timing chain side .......................

[Roadinator]

Thanks Mustang.  So bottom line, should I continue to ride this thing or shut it down?

[Mustang]

only you can answer that one ........................

[Roadinator]

Well, here goes another 275 mile trip as this is the only vehicle I have for the next two weeks...

[Mustang]

you will be fine .............

[Roadinator]

Stopped by a Triumph dealer that I didn't even know existed on my trip home.  Bike was plenty warmed up, so no loud noise, but they said it was the cam chain tensioner/guide.  Said it is not a big deal to ride the next month.  They said the motor has to be pulled to replace it.  Sounds expensive... 

I was planning to look at the shims this winter and do some maintenance.  They said this was more involved than something like the shims.  Is this a pretty scary procedure?  I bought the bike to get into motorcycling after 25 years off a bike and have loved it.  I planned to commit to doing my own maintenance and repairs, or learn how to do them on this bike.  I really can't see spending a $1,000 at a shop to do the 24k maintenance (they said this would basically what it needs since it is at 60k) and doing the cam chain guide procedure. 

I don't mind taking my time this winter to pull the motor and try this, so how hard is it?   

[Mustang]

heads gotta come off
engine can stay in frame
pretty easy actually
but you will need to get a new head gasket as well as hylomar sealant for the liner bottoms
and a good torque wrench

GET A MANUAL
the triumph one is best and can be found on pdf's around the web

[Roadinator]

Thanks Mustang.  I am in the market for a good torque wrench (the one I use is pretty old).  Is there one torque wrench that has all the size options 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" or you really need a large wrench and a smaller one?  I also have a Haynes manual, but not sure I am liking it all that much.  Is there a better one?

Thanks again.  Sounds like the winter will be filled with Tiger projects

[Mustang]

GET A MANUAL
the triumph one is best and can be found on pdf's for free around the web

craftsman makes a petty good torque wrench that wont break the bank and will work on everything on a tigger

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-1-2inch-drive/p-00931425000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[Roadinator]

Okay.  Oil level was at about 1/3 above the bottom of the hatched area on the dip stick.  I added about a 1/4 of a quart of oil.  I know I lost some oil because of replacing the stator.  After adding the oil, no more clicking sound on start up.  I know they said you can get cam tensioner clicking if you are low on oil (or have too much oil).  Now that I know that, should I just keep riding and not change the cam chain tensioner?  It has no oil leaks and does not use oil.