1997 Steamer. Starter won't turn, engine locked. HELP !

[Danwarb]

Hi guys,

Taking you pro's advice I'm going to replace the Phillips screws on the MIKUNI carbs with bolts.

Will these A2 bolts be good?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikuni-Carb-Bowl-Screws-M4-x-12mm-packs-of-4-Multi-Listing-/221202528149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3380b2b795

Will these bolts replace all 12 on either side of the carb?
The 13th one I'll file down for the tick over adjuster?

[Danwarb]

Just found this INCREDIBLE Nut and Bolt store in Brighton. Their prices are UNREAL AND their on line.

http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Metric_Socket_Cap_Head_Screw__A2__35.html

I'm going in with my carbs, I'll lay them on the counter then I'll undo each screw at a time and hand them over to the assistant to replace and match each for bolts !!!!

[Sin_Tiger]

These MOTOBATT batteries come fully charged and ready to go.

The first Motobatt I used only registered just over 80% of it's CCA when I put a load tester across it out of the packaging and I know from bitter experience how easy it is to give it "just one more try" and get it hotter than is good for it  just saying.

I routinely replace as many screws as I can with A2 socket head. where appropriate. Namrick have been around for donkeys and are a good bunch.

[GavD]

I've also read the optimum height to set these MIKUNI carb floats is 14.5mm.

That's what the bible says

[nickjtc]

I've also read the optimum height to set these MIKUNI carb floats is 14.5mm.

Has anyone out there ever had a float height change just during the course of riding? I've never had it happen, and have always assumed that if there is no fuel peeing out of the overflows and the bike is running well, there is no need to even check it...?? Carbs are not my favouritist things to work on y'see

[threepot]

Ive had the whole float assembly drop down..noticed fuel thru the airbox! But luckily not when out riding.

[Danwarb]

You guys have been so good to me . . .

I did charge the MOTOBATT when I got it home and within 20 minutes of trickle charge I got the green light.
Fitted it, pressed the ignition just to check the electric motor would turn over and it did three times, second push once, third once. So It wasn't the battery. Either the engine jamming or the starter.

I then as you guys said removed the spark plugs (the lowest one when on the stand seemed oily, the other two quite dirty and I only fitted them a week ago. Any ideas?)

I then took that right hand lower engine case off and gave that nut a crank and I could turn the engine over. Ok so the engines not locked. Slow going but all good. Spark plugs back in.

Emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?

I then got the starter motor out, took it home and this is what I found once I took it apart:

[Danwarb]

Graphite contacts ground down and I'm sure the graphite was slightly damp.

Could it be that the because the carbs haven't been closing off properly that petrol has poured in the starter motor?

I'll order the Denso electric start motor return brush kit and renovate it before putting back on the bike. Getting there . . .

[Danwarb]

These are the ones, only two Brushes.

http://www.triumphparts.co.uk/product.php/5730158/

[Danwarb]

Hi guys,

I'm in a it of heavy thought and wondered if you could let me know your experiences. 

I learned win my old Honda CBX 750 that when I'd constantly press and press the starter motor to try and start the bike that the brushes would heat up the commutators (the copper parts on the spindle the brushes run over) to the point that the commutators would buckle, become very much undulated then would very, very quickly grind down the graphite brushes.

In this image of my starter motor (by DENSO) here the commutators aren't 'as new' shall we say. They should be really smooth and I'm worried the next brushes will wear away quickly but I can't tell if the texture of these commutators as I run the pad of my thumb over them is simply the edges of each commutator or if the commutators are actually buckled.

I could lock the other end in to my Makita drill, spin it and file the commutators down smooth a bit but this then slightly widens the gap the brushes need to span across to brush the commutators.

What do you think?

Forget about it and get on with it?

Have you continually tried to start your Tiger and found the motors has been fine for years after?

Cheers,

Dan

[Danwarb]

Also I emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. 

Surely the water should be the same colour through out if it's circling?

I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?

How else can I check the pump is working please guys?

[iansoady]

It would be worth checking the thermostat as that effectively isolates the block from the rest of the system when closed.

So you now seem to have an entirely new set of problems?

[Bixxer Bob]

I could lock the other end in to my Makita drill, spin it and file the commutators down smooth a bit but this then slightly widens the gap the brushes need to span across to brush the commutators.

What do you think?

Commutator should be smooth as you say; even using emery will leave it rough enough to spark then you get pitting and burning.  I used to skim them on a lathe ( which you can't) but finish them with scotchbright (green pan scourer).  Looking at yours, a spin in your drill and polish with scotchbright should suffice.  When you're happy with it, clean the copper dust out from between the segments carefully.  Don't dig grooves otherwise you'll just accelerate the wear on the new brushes.

[Sin_Tiger]

  good clean after polishing is important, beware some electrical "cleaners" leave a residue, if you're not sure use pure alcohol.

If you can feel a step between the copper segments with your fingernail that's enough. If not, you can lower the insulator slightly using a used hacksaw blade. Don't use a new blade, it's too severe. Draw the blade outward only, I.e. place the blade on the insulator with the teeth pionting towards the shaft end and pull towards the shaft end once only, stop and check with fingernail, repeat as required. Polish and clean when your done. If you're fitting new brushes, spin it up on the bench, then open it to check the brush contact is good and even, wash or blow out the new dust, the first 10 spins generate most of the dust over the life of a set of brushes .

[Danwarb]

Brilliant posts guys ! Thanks so much.

Ok I'll give the commutators a minimal file down as I really need to by spinning the Center pin my drill then I'll carefully clean the grooves in between them with an old hack saw blade then polish with a scouring pad before assembling it with new brushes. Brilliant !