Rad cap, just making sure.

[rex007can]

1- Last week in traffic, bike seemed to be running a little hotter than usual, like temp needle 3/4 up instead of 1/2 up (while in traffic), but no actual overheating.
2- Last weekend, went for a ride. While running, needle was in normal place (right at the line) but when I got traffic towards the end, temp went up to ~3/4 again and a few drops of coolant came out of the overflow (I overfilled last year...long story).
3- When I stopped after the ride, the coolant hose that runs around the stator collapsed.
4- Rode to work yesterday, she peed about 1/4 cup of coolant in the parking lot.
5- hose collapse again when I got home last night.
6- drove the car to work this morning.

Fan is running fine, although maybe a bit longer than usual when I stop, no actual overheating, coolant does circulate.

So... this all leads me to believe faulty radiator cap (ordered one online last night) and maybe some air in the system, which I'll take care of when I change the cap.

Anything else I should be really worrying about, or does this sound like run of the mill cap problem?

[daveb]

I had a problem with mine a long time ago, turned out it was the rad cap

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13813.msg102949.html#msg102949

[rex007can]

Okay, so someone, MAYBE can enlighten me, especially long time Girly owners who've done this before a few times. Maybe there's a trick I'm not seeing.

So I start looking at the instructions and the whole cooling system bit, and something glaringly obvious struck me immediately.

In order to replace the radiator cap and flush the system, I need to remove the battery, the side panels, the blinkers and the gas tank, because the cap is underneath the gas tank. I can reach it and unscrew it, but it seems too long and I can't pull it out with the tank on,
Then I can drain stuff, replace the drain screws and refill the radiator.

Then... I have to START THE ENGINE!?! And fill the Radiator SLOWLY while the liquid circulates in order to make sure there is no air in the system.

So... Is there a magic trick? Some special fittings, some space time manipulation to do in order to run the engine without the gas tank on?
There MUST be a trick right?
Please?


And... was Tommy really drunk the day he decided to design the cooling system this way?

[Mustang]

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025.0.html

[rex007can]

Thanks, like I said I red the instructions this morning.
I didn't see a dire warring about how unnecessarily difficult it would be...

Ah well... makeshift tank holder here I come...

[daveb]

Yep, it's a pain in the butt to change the rad cap, indicators, side panels, battery and tank all need to be removed to allow you to remove the rad cap and bleed screw.

While your tiger is at this level of parts removed, I would give the tiger a mini service too, check the spark plugs or replace them similar with the air filter check or replace.

[Chris Canning]

Come on boys your talking about it as if were rocket science  :icon_wink:

4 panels 2 indicator pods battery out battery box out 2 bolts for the tank disconnect the tank and that's it 10 minutes absolutely tops assuming you have keep't your bike clean and tidy!!.

Undo the pipe by the water pump and drain the system and while your at it take the header tank off and fill it full of nuts and bolts and swill them about to get all the gunge out.

Pipe at the bottom back on and SLOWLY fill when it's up the top in the rad squeeze the pipe to make sure there's no air lock put rad cap on and Slowly fill the header tank.

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/Picture006.jpg.html)

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/TigerStand003.jpg.html)

[NortonCharlie]

don't forget to take out the air bleed screw (to the right of the filler cap in your photo) when you fill it.  Coolant should come right up to the hole.  And of course replace it before buttoning everything up.

[Chris Canning]

I have never touched mine in the 14 years I've had it because when you squeeze the pipe it blows any airlock out and if you slowly fill the header tank it will do it for you.

[rex007can]

Come on boys your talking about it as if were rocket science  :icon_wink:

4 panels 2 indicator pods battery out battery box out 2 bolts for the tank disconnect the tank and that's it 10 minutes absolutely tops assuming you have keep't your bike clean and tidy!!.

Undo the pipe by the water pump and drain the system and while your at it take the header tank off and fill it full of nuts and bolts and swill them about to get all the gunge out.

Pipe at the bottom back on and SLOWLY fill when it's up the top in the rad squeeze the pipe to make sure there's no air lock put rad cap on and Slowly fill the header tank.

If I follow the instructions:
Plug the battery back in.
Put the tank sideways and reconnect it.
Start the engine.
Let it run while adding coolant SLOWLY.
When "really" full, stop engine.
Disconnect battery and tank again.
Put everything back in proper order.

[Chris Canning]

All I can tell you is that's not the way I've done it if you take your time putting the coolant in and squeeze the pipe to check for any air locks I've not found any need to start the motor as for the rad cap my original was fine but I changed it anyway I posted a photo somewhere of the new and old version.

There you go.

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/002_zpsd4058585.jpg.html)

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/001_zpsedcc6355.jpg.html)

That's it screwed back together without having to start the motor up.

(http://s64.photobucket.com/user/wing2541/media/003_zps458b4088.jpg.html)

[rex007can]

Well,  the good news is that I  replaced the cap last night.  The old one was really stuck in there,  I  have to pry it out.

The bad news is that my old plastic gas hose fittings cracked when I pulled the tank...

After scrambling to find a container to empty the tank in and ruining a pair of shoes, i removed the pump assembly from the tank and will be dropping that off to a dealer,  hoping he has the proper replacement fittings (in metal) and a tool to get the threaded part out of the sockets without ruining the threads... Bummer.

The plastic fittings were really old and brittle,  it was one of tbose "I should really get to..."  jobs.

So it goes.

[NortonCharlie]

Well at least you didn't break the plastic fittings out on the road 50 miles from nowhere.  Kind of like having a heart attack in the hospital.  It sucks but your in a good place to deal with it.

[Sin_Tiger]

Will your shoes be OK? I admire your pragmatic attitude with so many breakages, hope the tank goes well for you.

[Chris Canning]

Well at least you didn't break the plastic fittings out on the road 50 miles from nowhere.  Kind of like having a heart attack in the hospital.  It sucks but your in a good place to deal with it.

Oh yea I won't forget when mine broke on the way to Monza 200 miles down the road no chance of a repair breakdown service supply a hire car get back home 1130pm repack another bike 4 hours sleep and then rode 770 miles that day mostly in the rain  all because poxy Triumph have never done a recall!!.

As for getting the plastic bit out the tank easy peezy model file put a grove in the plastic till you feel contact with the metal thread do another opposite and prise out with a screw driver.

Contact details for metal version is in the how too I think.