FH020AA Mosfet MOD - Later update to SH775AA

[JoeDirt]

UPDATE: Read down where I eventually went to SH775AA mosfet.

Alrighty then,

I have had success switching to the Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier. During the last two years I have owned my Girly... I have never seen more than 13 volts... let alone 14 volts. I have a voltmeter in my dash left there from the previous owner of my bike. I check my volts constantly, just to be reassured the thing will start on my return trips home. It has left me within walking distance from home before and it has been my goal to not have it happen again. Besides, they 're "adventure bikes" not, "leave me to my own devices bikes" right?

I have nothing to lose on trying to find a solution, even if Mr. Triumph didn't originally design it that way. I heard on Cos's post where Brother Number One stated that there was mosfet regulator that could replace the original. I started searching for mosfets and found lots of kits, connectors, wire harnesses and all types of mosfets. The one site that made the most sense of it all was at:

http://www.roadstercycle.com/ (http://www.roadstercycle.com/)



They are the self-proclaimed "Home of the original FH020AA Kit" and for $109USD plus shipping they'll hook you right up. Of course, I went the cheap route. I bought a used FH020AA for $38USD from eBay and a Triumph T2500676 $10USD from Bikebandit. So being the cheap 'git' I am... I beat Roadstercycle.com  by  $50USD.

eBay tip: search for "panigale (rectifier,regulator)" these guys must wreck their bikes a lot.

Be sure you get one with the part number on the top of the unit just as in the picture otherwise it might be an earlier FH012AA. Also, make sure there is an aluminum plate on the back because of Chinese knock-offs have the right heatsink, but it will be filled with RTV. The width of the FH020AA is narrower than the original T1300535 rectifier. So, a new bracket "L" will need to be made to replace the small T2078702 bracket. I made mine from a scrap of stainless I had laying around from fixing my mower deck.


New mosfet and harness from Triumph.

The T2500676 harness is from a 2011-2012 Triumph Street Triple.  It has nice weather proof connectors and the regular one's we all used to on the other.


Original regulator rectifier with old bracket

The thickness of the FH020AA is the same thickness as the original and will still fit between the tank and the frame. See below picture looking down past the fuel  tank.


FH020AA Mosfet assembled


Homemade bracket could use a little straightening but does the job for now.



I have my "Sasquatch Fix" running back to my accessory terminals. And, I put it outside the frame and around the monoshock for clearance.  My "Sasquatch Fix" is slightly modified from the original, because I used a connector from my original Girly wire harness. I got lucky, it was the same connector used on the new harness.

The first time I started it, I was getting 14 volts. I have never seen that many volts from my bike before. Then, the smell of melting plastic shadowed my newly found voltage. The connector between the stator and the new mosfet was so hot it melted. But, I was okay with it... VxI=R... that just reaffirmed that I was putting more power/energy through my old wires. The V for Volts increased... the I for Impedance increase so Resistance being the same as it ever was. I was glad it burnt right through the connector. It gave me an excuse to cut the connector of my new $10USD harness and solder and heat tube it.

Volts vs Amps:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LPgBkBNwPQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LPgBkBNwPQ)

I have ran two errands, the mosfet and wires do get a little warm. But when I cold start it... I am getting 12.75V which is strong compaired to before. When I ride with my high amp lights on... it reads just shy of 14V. I am happy with the results so far.

[John Stenhouse]

Excellent write up

[Bixxer Bob]

Excellent Joe.  Might be worth checking the dash reading vsthe battery reading with a good multimeter.  It could be your dash meter is a tad lazy....

[benebob]

What am I swiss cheese?  I wrote this up back in May when I did it with the newer Series SH775 version of the Mosfet. :) LOL  Guess you boys like pretty pictures and I can't upload 'em here real good as I am a bit technology challenged.  I would caution anybody who uses the part number Joe has there that you aren't solving any heating issues as they are just as problematic based on the location on the tiger not getting much airflow.  The heat is what kills the system along with the wiring over time. The SH775 is cool as the only heat it gets is the sink from the engine.   I will also note that the harness makes a perfect adaptation to the Sas. mod as you have 2 not 4 wires coming out of the output not the 4 that come out of the factory wiring.  If you go with the later series reg it does not burn up unneeded watts as heat, it simply doesn't ask the starter for 'em.  To me I found that to be  much more beneficial as owning a TVR has shown me exactly what too much heat does to wiring as they are somewhat ground challenged.  Good write up Joe :)

[JoeDirt]

What am I swiss cheese?  I wrote this up back in May when I did it with the newer Series SH775 version of the Mosfet. :) LOL

Sorry if I stole your thunder... I did a search on the forum for Mosfet, FH020AA and SH775 before making the post. I guess I should have read everything more closely.

Honestly, the SH775 is too new for used parts and price. I went with the cheaper and easy to find FH020AA...

Excellent Joe.  Might be worth checking the dash reading vsthe battery reading with a good multimeter.  It could be your dash meter is a tad lazy....

It will read more than 14V but I like blinding people with my new secret high amp accessory lights...

[benebob]

LOL Joe you stole nothing but I did write it up long ago for all to see.  Even used pretty much the same set up as far as the bracket goes (except I used aluminum as that is what I had lying around).  Yeah the sh775 is pretty new.  Costs about $80 from a polaris dealer but I got mine from roadstercycle as the guy was extremely nice and customer friendly (much easier to get the triumph part from then my local dealer as well).  I think I paid closer to $100 but no complaints.  Compared to other regulator rectifiers it is rock steady at 14.2 coming out of it no matter what I do to it as far as turning stuff on.  Doesn't really change at all with revs like the shunt styles do. 

[Bixxer Bob]

When I mounted my MOSFET i also turned it through 90 degrees so that the air flows through the fins rather than over them...

[JoeDirt]

When I mounted my MOSFET i also turned it through 90 degrees so that the air flows through the fins rather than over them...

I have been putting my hand on the heatsink after every ride. No need for concern yet... but any safe guard that near the gas tank is warranted. I have been looking at the Triumph Daytona 675 bracket that puts it at an angle and towards the center of the bike. See below pic:

[JoeDirt]

Excellent Joe.  Might be worth checking the dash reading vsthe battery reading with a good multimeter.  It could be your dash meter is a tad lazy....

My lights are brighter too...

[Sasquatch]

LOL Joe you stole nothing but I did write it up long ago for all to see.  Even used pretty much the same set up as far as the bracket goes (except I used aluminum as that is what I had lying around).  Yeah the sh775 is pretty new.  Costs about $80 from a polaris dealer but I got mine from roadstercycle as the guy was extremely nice and customer friendly (much easier to get the triumph part from then my local dealer as well).  I think I paid closer to $100 but no complaints.  Compared to other regulator rectifiers it is rock steady at 14.2 coming out of it no matter what I do to it as far as turning stuff on.  Doesn't really change at all with revs like the shunt styles do.

I did your original mod per your recommendation.  Worked great with my Sasquatch mod.  The one thing I see that is odd is that after riding for hours the voltage would actually be lower at higher RPM than at idle.  No where near a problem, just odd.  I do not know if this is normal behavior once the battery comes up to full voltage or not.

[JoeDirt]

I did your original mod per your recommendation.  Worked great with my Sasquatch mod.  The one thing I see that is odd is that after riding for hours the voltage would actually be lower at higher RPM than at idle.  No where near a problem, just odd.  I do not know if this is normal behavior once the battery comes up to full voltage or not.

Well the engine is running faster and your stator is spinning faster as well. The stator would be in a state of over-charging and it should cutout. That's what a regulator does. It keeps it from over charging as well as charging. As long as it returns to charging you are okay.

If it drops and stays low, that is a sign of a broken connection.

[Bixxer Bob]

I find the same, volts are slightly lower at high revs than at tickover / low revs.

I agree with Joe, as the revs pick up once the reg rec has more volts than it needs it is cutting the power many times a second to level the volts whereas when it's on tickover to that point it's using everything the stator is putting out and so is full on.

Part of the reason I think this is that my multimeter (which is old and therefore slow) gives a steady voltage reading at the battery regardless which rises with the revs until a max of 14.7 volts.  My much newer dash voltmeter seems to sample the voltage more quickly than the reg rec interrupts the power because the meter flickers as the voltage changes and reads, in very quick succession14.5 - 14.9.

I've not described that very well,  I'll do a vid at some point.

[JoeDirt]

The first time I started it, I was getting 14 volts. I have never seen that many volts from my bike before. Then, the smell of melting plastic shadowed my newly found voltage. The connector between the stator and the new mosfet was so hot it melted. But, I was okay with it... VxI=R... that just reaffirmed that I was putting more power/energy through my old wires. The V for Volts increased... the I for Impedance increase so Resistance being the same as it ever was. I was glad it burnt right through the connector. It gave me an excuse to cut the connector of my new $10USD harness and solder and heat tube it.

Update: I have actually gotten some hours on the connector I used to fix my melted connector. I found a $4US 3-wire Delphi connector on eBay at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221365438168 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221365438168)



It's a 12-10 gauge connector and worked out because the three wires on the stattor look 10GA and the three wire on the harness are closer to 12GA. I have ran the new connector for the past few weeks with no issues. I didn't want to post this unless I had a good fix in place.

Also, I had to buy a new jaw for my electrical crimper as well. I used the 2.5mm one in the center to crimp the contacts.

[Bixxer Bob]

Nice update Joe.   

It's all very well when we tell folks to cut out the connector and solder the wires, but we're assuming everyone is competent to do the soldering; the reality is a lot of people use heat and fluxed solder and hope for the best and so end up with more problems than when they started.  A reliable connector is a great step forward because with the correct crimper there's a lot less to get wrong.

[JoeDirt]

I mod'ed my mod...   

I have been riding my Girly with a Shindengen SH775AA. Which is a later version of the Shindengen FH020AA rectifier. The SH775AA is the same size, shape and mounting as the FH020AA. I have been riding without the battery tender on between rides and I trust my bike not to leave me stranded as before.

Sorry I haven't posted in a while,
JoeDirt