KYB Shock Reservoir question

[ZuluSafari]

Hello fellow Steamer drivers!

I have been through page after page for the last several weeks, learning all I can on the maintenance and upkeep for my 97 Steamer, and have run into a dead end.  How do I open the reservoir end to recharge the nitrogen bladder?  I can not seem to shift or open the end plate/cap(?) at all, and I don't want to damage/destroy anything without checking here to see what I am doing wrong?  I assume the Schrader valve is located under the domed steel cover, correct?

The rebuild guide for Kayaba and Showa shock absorbers is very informative, yet too general.  Google hasn't been much help either, and there is practically no mention of the rear shock absorber reservoir in the Haynes manual.  I have tried to push down the cap, looking for any circlips.  I have tried turning the end off, turning the "plate" out; still no go.  I really am trying not to chew the finish or mar the sides, as the reservoir will be very visible on the Thunderbike Crash Bars I am installing!!

Thank you in advance for your assistance!  I have a shop close by that can charge to 150 psi Nitrogen, and there are several sources for the 5wt oil.  I just can't figure out how to get into the reservoir!

[nickjtc]

Or just send the whole kit and caboodle to :

http://www.adventurepowersports.us/  and let them figure it out.

[ZuluSafari]

Definitely in the future for this trusty steed, but the weather is good for riding now.  Plus, she is still new (to me), so I don't like her being unaccessible for a ride.  I injured my back a week ago, and took the opportunity to:

replace the fork oil
seal the spokes and mount a new Anakee III tubeless on the front rim
Moose Racing ATV handlebars
install battery tender
brighter LED indicators
Thunderbike Crash Bars
EMGO YZ400F Shift lever
Side stand bushing

My back is feeling up to riding again, and I am about ready to reinstall all the fairings and go!  I feel a bit of a hitch in the steering, so new head bearings will be happening in the future.  I will also be sealing the rear wheel and installing the matching Anakee III after I burn a few more miles out of the Anakee II currently there.  That is when I will probably yank the shock and send to Sasquatch for his magic touch!  But, in the mean time, I would like to see how the rear shock dampening should feel when there is some pressure in the reservoir.  

[BruKen]

It's a press fitted dust cap. Unfortunately it's use once. Pry off and discard. Easiest way is to drill a hole on the EDGE of the dome being careful not to punch the drill through and damage the valve underneath. Pop a screwdriver in and prize off. I would not bother about replacement. Certainly if you send it in that's what they will do and you almost certainly wont get another dust cap fitted either. I do not think it's a carried spares item.

[ZuluSafari]

Thanks for the tips- I drilled a 1/8" hole at the base of the raised section, and used an old nailset to pry the cap out. The Schrader valve was capped and looks like new.  I put in about 120 pounds of air (I have a dryer) for now, and will send the whole shock off to Idaho in the future !

[London_Phil]

Interested to hear how it feels after the re-gassing

I just tried to unscrew the metal cap on the shrader valve on my spare unit, and the valve shaft sheared...........going to have to strip the reservoir now. Not sure if I can fit an insert, or buy a new bladder cap.

BTW the "oil" that came out of the shock was black, very black.

Beginning to think probably better fix this one and swap the current unit out before too long.

[ZuluSafari]

I might try finding a spare to send out for rebuild, then swap it for my current shock.  Less downtime = more riding!

My fork oil was black and smelled bad.

Getting ready to go for a ride now!

Merry Christmas (Happy Christmas to you across the pond!)

[threepot]

My rear shock died a while back. Can feel a distinctive 'slap' in the backside running over rough surfaces etc. But surprisingly the handling of the bike hasn't changed. I have tried re-charging with compressed air,but I think the valve is f@#$%d ?

[Mustang]

My rear shock died a while back. Can feel a distinctive 'slap' in the backside running over rough surfaces etc. But surprisingly the handling of the bike hasn't changed. I have tried re-charging with compressed air,but I think the valve is f@#$%d ?

my 98 behaved like that when the showa was brand new , it turned into an Ohlins immediately

[London_Phil]

My rear shock died a while back. Can feel a distinctive 'slap' in the backside running over rough surfaces etc. But surprisingly the handling of the bike hasn't changed. I have tried re-charging with compressed air,but I think the valve is f@#$%d ?

Have you checked the bottom linkage bearings are not shot. There not keen on lack of grease. When I first got mine, the one the shock clamps to had failed, and was hammering its way into the Aluminium linkage body.

[threepot]

Phil,I have greased the linkages a few times ,and they seem to be operating OK? But I will check further.

[BruKen]

My rear shock died a while back. Can feel a distinctive 'slap' in the backside running over rough surfaces etc. But surprisingly the handling of the bike hasn't changed. I have tried re-charging with compressed air,but I think the valve is f@#$%d ?

Have you adjusted both the rebound and  compression damping valves? If your shocks are set with the incorrect compression damping (min) then you could well bottom out. If you set to max and you are bottoming out on a sharp knock then you have something wrong. If you are bottoming out on a slow progession then either your bladder is underinflated/ low on oil or your spring tension needs increasing. Stop eating all the pies fatso  Have you checked the rear unladen weight heights to verify spring pretensioning? I believe it's 1 inch drop from full extension.

other values -guide

  .............................compression...................rebound
solo std.....................6...................................8
solo soft....................8...................................10
solo firm....................4....................................6
with pillion................6.....................................4
pilliom and luggage...6.....................................4

[ZuluSafari]

WOW! What a difference some psi makes!  The old steamer was fun before, but now she's amazing to ride!  The flushed and refilled forks (I used Dexron III ATF) combined with recharged gas reservoir really brought out better handling!  The new Anakee III works well with the refurbished suspension, too.  I'm taking it easy to scrub the new rubber in, but the whole bike feels much more planted and sure-footed than before.  Where the bike kind of bounced and floated over road imperfections or railroad crossings, she now glides.  With the more "pointy" front tire profile, the turn in is faster but still controlled.

My bike had the forks pushed up 1" when I purchased her, and I put them back up one inch when I put the bike back together.

[motoOzarks]

Is that the Texas bike that made the rattle noises?

You may want or need to flip your rear wheel axle up to match moving your forks in the clamps.

[ZuluSafari]

?why?  The bike handles great as it is? Reading on here, pushing the forks up 1 inch from stock has been beneficial for handling and tire wear.

I also don't notice any unusual noises or rattles.