Front brakes are completely screwed

[Roadinator]

So I went to do the head bearings on a '05 Girly (new bearings in, no notching).  And the front left (clutch side) wheel caliber did not want to slide off.  It was bound on and I had really work it to get it off (muscle it).  When went to install the calibers back on, but side seemed tight and the front wheel was basically locked because the calibers/rotors seemed like there were bound up.  Almost like the forks were wonky.  I thought they would free you when I went for a ride.  They did a little, but still not right.  The rotors like like they have wear from thin to fatter on the outside.  Brake pads are the same way.  Worn more at the lower part than the top.  I'm not sure what happened and why everything would be bound up when reinstalling? 

If I just put new rotors and pads it still seems like the tension on the rotors/calibers would just burn the pads because it is not fitting right.  I know this is vague, but am I missing something?  Did I not line up the fork tubes right?  I know I took a tumble on a course on a steep hillside, but it just flopped over with no damage. Just don't know why it is fitting so tight and binding up the front brakes?  Wheel issue?  Caliber issue?

Any thoughts on next steps?

[Timbox2]

I would think that its almost a certainty that the caliper slide pins have seized, very common issue. You might get away with dismantling the caliper bracket and cleaning/regreasing but will probably need new rubber boots for the pins. I have just had the same issue with the rear caliper on my girly.  Easy test, take the caliper off and remove brake pads, the caliper bracket which bolts to the fork should mover back and forth a few mill easily, bet it doesnt.  See BB's post ref Timely Reminder

PS: Yeah, dont discount doing the main pistons too, though if youve just put new pads in it should have been obvious if the pistons werent moving easily? On mine the outer dust seal had started to push out beyond the bore of the piston

[blacktiger]

Sounds like you need to spend an afternoon stripping the callipers down, cleaning everything thoroughly and reassembling them with fresh grease.
Oh, and don't use Copperslip on your sliding pins. It's too thick and you'll get that seized up feeling again. Just plain old Low Meltingpoint (LM) grease is fine.

[Roadinator]

Thanks for the info. 

I think the pins do need greasing and will do that, but, and here is my embarrassing confession - I was trying (well, not trying I actually did it for a ten a minute ride) to put the wheel on the opposite side.  I guess in my rush to get it sorted and go for a ride on a warm day in Washington, DC, I ignored the fact that my speedo housing was not in the notch, but in fact on the other side.  I just assumed it spun freely and kept going with it.  Took a long look at it last night and noticed a notch on the clutch side bottom fork and a cable holder off the bottom caliber.  Yes, I am a dumb ass.  Yes, this is how I learn to work on my motorcycle.  It looks like the quick ride didn't ruin the rotors and I already have new pads waiting back at the house (I keep the bike in storage in DC).  Should be able to sort things out and have it actually working and on the road this weekend.  In the middle of a separation from the wife and my brain has been a little distracted.  Really looking forward to getting some miles on the bike.  Gotta clear the head and feel the road.     

[Bixxer Bob]

Sounds like you need to spend an afternoon stripping the callipers down, cleaning everything thoroughly and reassembling them with fresh grease.
Oh, and don't use Copperslip on your sliding pins. It's too thick and you'll get that seized up feeling again. Just plain old Low Meltingpoint (LM) grease is fine.

Aha!!  You'd have Clive Woods down on you for that one 

He goes into a lot of detail about using red rubber grease because any mineral-based grease reacts with the rubber making it swell and causing the pins / dust seals to stick.  Co-incidentally, the seal kits I bought recently came with sachets of....... you've guessed it,  red rubber grease!!!

[cba191]

Speaking of front brakes. I rebuilt mine this week and forgot how much I despise pressuring the lines. Still working on that. Was unable to get any pressure at all. But it will force fluid out the bleeders. Gonna give it another go this weekend.

[Bixxer Bob]

Had the same problem myself just recently.  Lift the right caliper up to bleed it so you get rid of any air in the line where it loops over the wheel.  Better still tie it up high the night before.  Also, tie the brake lever to the grip as tight as you can and leave over night.  Finally, keep tapping the calipers and the master cylinder to help move any bubbles.

[cba191]

My setup is a little different. I'm running Galfer lines, so i have two lines from the master.  But I'll still give that's go.

[cba191]

Got em done, finally.  I kind of cheated and popped the pistons out again so the cylinders would fill. Then put em in again. I figured most of the air was in the cylinder and that was going to take forever to do.