Bad Hiccup At Idle 885i

[Dev_1]

Hello All,

I've been having this hiccup issue since I bought my *Girly* about 6 months ago. I've replaced the vac hoses with auto line hoses, cleaned the stepper motor, and now am guessing I may need to change my coils. 

The bike starts and idles fine when cold, but once it warms up (the hotter, the worse) the motor will hiccup at idle and when coasting. Usually it drops to about 400rpm and springs back up. It has caused me to stall a hand full of times. It is sporadic like a human hiccup and sounds almost exactly like the one in this video of a bonnie:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeV9F-cGgQs&nohtml5=False

thoughts, ideas, prayers PLEASE 

2000 Tiger 885i 6k miles 

[T3mike]

I thought it was just me... my 01 Bonnie has done the same. Its so sporadic and I have not rode it much I never bothered. If I remember correctly it started when I put a 'juiced' ignitor in that moved the advance and upped the rev limiter. I need to tear into the carbs and check for air leaks on the vac hose's before I make that assumption.
Where are you at in NorCal? I'm in the San Joaquin Valley.

[Bixxer Bob]

The ok cold, worse when hot suggests the crank sensor, but the tend to fail more on the old Steamers.  If you can borrow a known good one you could swap to see if it sorts it.  Otherwise you'll be throwing money at it not really knowing if you are aiming at the problem.

You could have a coil stick going off and TunECU would diagnose that.

[Dev_1]

I'm in Fairfield (halfway between SF and Sac).

I took it to a shop up here and they sprayed around to check for hose leaks...couldn't find any.

@BB, I have a cable for TuneECU but the program doesn't recognize my bike. I think I read that some actually have to leave the headlight fuses IN...?   

[KuzzinKenny]

Hey Dev_1 !! Removal of the headlight fuse (AFAIK) only applies to bikes that don't have a headlight on/off switch, its so the battery aint drained when yer checkin stuff with the engine off 

yer battery needs to be fully charged to work with TuneECU 

KK

[Bixxer Bob]

Kenny's right, and not hooking up is generally either a driver fault or a cheap Chinese cable the has the wrong chip in it.  There is something you can do while you think about it though.

Chairhead had a really perplexing problem with his and tried all the usual known problems without any improvement.  Then he went on one of his winter jaunts and had to be recovered back to the UK.  It turned out there was corrosion in the ECU connectors that eventually resulted in meltdown.  It occurs because the rear frame undertray is full of holes and the water gets under the ECU.  Damaged ECUs are not unheard of.  Not wanting to frighten you, but you may as well have a look and eliminate the more obscure causes.

[Dev_1]

Thanks for the concern but this bike has seen more dust from the PO than any kind of mud/ rain/ dirt. The ECU looks clean to me.
I'll give it another shot hooking it up.

Is the a TOR exhaust + airbox restrictor deletion tune that you'd recommend (while we're on the subject)?

[Dev_1]

Here is the video I just posted of MY bike and the hiccup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGPo7NsPUwc

[Bixxer Bob]

Your tag says it's only done 6000k so it's odd to say the least.  Normally I'd be checking the valve clearances although mine's done 36k and they've not been touched.  Injector manifold gasket is another source of leaks and rough running but not like you're getting.

I'd be wanting to look to see if there are fault codes, and to look at what the coils are doing.  Although the rev counter drops significantly when it coughs, the actual engine speed is hardly affected which makes me think something's affecting the spark momentarily that will also affect the rev counter.  Rev counter is driven by the ECU not the engine.  Which takes me back to crank sensor again, but the mode of failure for that (up till now anyway) is cutting out when hot and not restarting until it's cooled down.   Right now I can't think of anything else that would fool the ECU into thinking the revs had dropped when they hadn't and thus producing the drop on the rev counter.  Happy for anyone else to chime in if I'm missing something.

[Sin_Tiger]

  ignition circuit somewhere.

[Dev_1]

Hopefully the Tune ECU will tell me what I need to know. I do believe it's an engine hesitation vs just a tach reading; as there's been a time or two where I've tried to accelerate right at the (blip) moment and stalled out.
For the record, it has brand new plugs and the ones I pulled looked normal.
The sound seems to come from just above the radiator... not from the lower engine area.

[Dev_1]

So TuneECU is being a royal c%÷×.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. 
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still fucked.

[Timbox2]

So TuneECU is being a royal c&*^.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. 
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still f÷=/$#.

Good job we arent in Canada, you cant say C&*^ in Canada ( for those unfamiliar look up Kevin Bloody Wilson)

Anyway , I have the same Tune ECU problem mate, Ive got the same cable I used with Tune ECU 6 years ago no problem, but now I have a newer laptop it will not install correctly, Ive given up for now, but then my bikes running ok, ish, well its a *Girly* in it.

One thing, is your bike a proper Cali bike with all the extra purge stuff, carbon cannister etc?

My bike did a bit of that Inlet Puffing when I first got it, ok mine had a massive hole in one of the IACV tubes but even after replacing them it still did it a bit. But, the more I rode it the better it got and I dont think its done it at all now for quite some time. I wonder if I had a partially blocked injector which would give a lean issue every now and then, hence the inlet backfire/pop.


PS: Think we have posted this on the wrong thread havent we?

[Sin_Tiger]

So TuneECU is being a royal c%÷×.
More accurately, the D3XX driver package that I downloaded doesn't seem to contain any useful driver files for my cable. 
I've been working on getting the drivers loaded for the past 3 hours and I'm still f₩¥¥€@.

Most of us who've used it know your pain, though we might not be quite as graphic in use of descriptive prose  , go easy mate 

Best stick with the genuine Microsloth drivers for the windows side.

More often than not the problem is completely eradicating old drivers and pointers that still try to load them. Sometimes you just have to open a can, take a deep slug, start from scratch.

Hang in there, when it works the feeling is 

[Bixxer Bob]

The sound is a compressed but unburnt fuel cycle so yes, it'll be coming from the top. 

And yes, the engine did hesitate, but, as far as I can tell,  not down to 400 rpm and back up again whereas the tacho did. 

If the ignition circuit was interrupted by a coil the engine would do as it is doing, but the tacho would give no more that a little dance of the needle, which is does on tickover anyway.

If the sensor misses a beat, the ECU momentarily thinks the crank has stopped turning so interrupts the spark and drops the rev counter to zero.

That's the logic based on what I can see.  What I don't understand is why the sensor should hiccup.  Generally they either work or they don't.

Hang on a minute...  the fog is clearing.....  years ago I had a regular very slight misfire on tickover on my old Volvo.  Other than that it ran fine.  I changed all sorts of things before giving up and putting it into an ignition specialist.  He found a very slight air leak on the inlet manifold on one cylinder.  Just something to think about.  The throttle body gasket maybe?  How often does it occur, is it regular???