Spraying engine covers? Any tips?

[Danwarb]

Hi guys,

I really want to remove the crank cover and clutch plate to then re-spray them.

Can I remove the old paint with paint stripper?

What's a good heat resistant spray in black I could use?

Cheers guys,

Dan

[BruKen]

Yes you can use paint stripper. You do not want or need high heat paint, it wont cure on the crank covers. I used hammerite enamel thinned with white spirit (not thinners) and spayed that on with a spray gun. It has proved very durable.

[nickjtc]

You do not want or need high heat paint, it wont cure on the crank covers..

Unless you put them in swwbo's oven at the correct temp. :icon_wink:

[JayDub]

If you don't have access to spray equipment then this stuff is an almost perfect match in finish to the OEM black.  Use an oven as Nick says, although I didn't bake it and its still good after nearly two years.

[BruKen]

I'm sorry but the way high temp paints work I struggle to believe you can cure it properly in a household oven and if you got a cover to near the 400 C temps needed it would either crack or warp. A paint job that has lasted 2 years is imho not a recommendation. It should be good for the life of the vehicle.

What I liked about hammerite and its the only time I have ever used it in any of my restos is that not only does it adhere well to the shitty alloy used in the steamer when most paints will eventually flake off but as an enamel it gives excellent protection from the oxidation the shitty alloy is so prone to. The only thing better would be a ali bias 2 pack hi fill primer and then whatever you want on top.

I've successfully used hammerite on my outboard engine and 2 pack on my I/O legs. You dont get a much harsher environment for ali Mg alloys that the sea.

[Danwarb]

I'm sorry but the way high temp paints work I struggle to believe you can cure it properly in a household oven and if you got a cover to near the 400 C temps needed it would either crack or warp. A paint job that has lasted 2 years is imho not a recommendation. It should be good for the life of the vehicle.

What I liked about hammerite and its the only time I have ever used it in any of my restos is that not only does it adhere well to the shitty alloy used in the steamer when most paints will eventually flake off but as an enamel it gives excellent protection from the oxidation the shitty alloy is so prone to. The only thing better would be a ali bias 2 pack hi fill primer and then whatever you want on top.

I've successfully used hammerite on my outboard engine and 2 pack on my I/O legs. You dont get a much harsher environment for ali Mg alloys that the sea.

Would you rate Hammerite in a spray can?

Would I just use Nitromors paint stripper?

[Sin_Tiger]

You'd have to do the lot as its unlikely it'd match the existing colour, certainly won't match the original speckled  (municipal convenience) black finish.

[Danwarb]

You'd have to do the lot as its unlikely it'd match the existing colour, certainly won't match the original speckled  (municipal convenience) black finish.

On this note I think I'd go with JayDub's suggestion and go for this Simoniz High Temperature paint in a can as he's found it's a good match.

[nickjtc]

Please take pics of the end result. Thank you.

[Danwarb]

If you don't have access to spray equipment then this stuff is an almost perfect match in finish to the OEM black.  Use an oven as Nick says, although I didn't bake it and its still good after nearly two years.

Hi JayDub !

I'm going for it this week end. I've got a can of this Simoniz high temperate paint.

You said it's worked well for you.

I aim to use Nitromors to remove the old paint from the clutch plate and the other plate on the other side.

Do you then suggest I use a primer or did you find that this paint adhered well on it's own?

Cheers,

Dan

[JayDub]

most of the  paint had peeled off or bubbled, so I used a drill mounted brass wire brush, a blade, then degreaser but no primer.

[Sin_Tiger]

Do NOT use a steel wire brush or wire wool, the steel particles will embed themselves in the softer alloy and eventually rust. As JD says brass or stainless steel.

[nickjtc]

Do NOT use a steel wire brush or wire wool, the steel particles will embed themselves in the softer alloy and eventually rust. As JD says brass or stainless steel.

+1. Don't ask!

[Danwarb]

Do NOT use a steel wire brush or wire wool, the steel particles will embed themselves in the softer alloy and eventually rust. As JD says brass or stainless steel.

Got it !

You guys are amazing.

[threepot]

/quote]

Legs?