Questions.... maintenance, farkling, information

[P3aK]

So... it's that time of year now in the far northern hemisphere to get our cats out of hibernation. Obviously lots of new/old questions starts to brew in the farkling/maintenance part of the brain. I've gone through all the 88 pages of threads (not each and every thread, doh!) of steamer information and about 50 or so on the Farkling and Toys. Still I'm left with questions...



1. Checking valve clearance? - As long as the cam shaft tips aren't pressing on the shim I can measure, right? Or does the tip have to be pointing EXACTLY away from the shim?, how close to "EXACTLY away" is close enough? Seems to me as long as I have backside /rounded side) pointing down I can measure reliably. Right or wrong?

2. Over sized shim on EX? - From my measurements I have an EX shim with 0.26 clearance (should be 0.15-0.20). How can that be? Did the PO mess up the last shimming that badly or could it actually happen mechanically?

3. Clear break/back light housing? - I want to have a clear/white glass one and go with red LEDs. Obviously can't find one specific for the steamer, so what aftermarket options fit reasonably well. It is rather large (150x80mm?) so I wouldn't want to go with a really small one, it would just look out of place. Although I have been pondering using two half size ones side by side. Oh, and I want BRIGHT lights. Don't want some idiot crashing into me cuz "they couldn't" see me.

4. Direct shift lever (with folding tip)? - It's been talked about several times. Although I cant figure if anyone managed to get a decent one working. Yes, cutting and welding is necessary and I'm up for it (or friendly people of mine are). So what's the verdict? Which one? Take a spare stocker, cut it all up and start welding bits and pieces until it fits? Or something that it a rather close match and just do 1-2 steps?

5. Jetting for 3-1 exhaust for KEHIN?(w/ or w/o K&N) - Any of you 3-1 owners that can share the jet sizes that worked for you? I know I have to do my own, but would be nice to have something to aim for at least. Note, for the KEHINs! No Mikunis please.

6. SS Girly spoked rear rim? - I know the 4.25" Girly rim fits. What I don't understand is this Stainless Steel part. Are all the Girly rims Behr? Are all the Behr rims SS? Or is it JUST the spokes that one can get SS? I find several nice options from wreckers and Ebay, but they're all cast rims and there are people/companies selling the SS spokes on their own. Some one care to straighten this out for me, all SS or only spokes?

7. Sprocketectomy short dipstick length? - Anyone who has cut up the sprocket cover and cut the dipstick to proper lenght? How long should it be? How do you measure how long it should be? And what about top part of cover bending from clutch push rod strain? Not much attaching it on the lower side anymore..

8. Front fork brace measurements? - Question perhaps angled towards Mustang mostly, but others might have done it. I want to fabricate a brace that holds the two front forks together/apart (like Mustang did with his "Tigger 2" machined into it). Does anyone have the correct measurements for this piece? I've run without anything between the forks for a while and I'm not sure I can get a correct stock measurement between them now if they've sagged/bent due to strain.

Cheers!

[nickjtc]

I'll chime in on the ones I think I can answer. Hi from Canada.

As long as the hemispherical part of the cam is towards the shim bucket you are good to go.

I cannot speak for Tigers in particular, but maybe the po was not too accurate when he/she did the last check.

If you want red leds for your brake light you can always get the small bolt-on white ones (that replace the licence plate bolts) to fulfil the legal requirement to have an illuminated plate. And if you want people to pay attention having a brake light flasher/pulser works very effectively.

I cannot help with the shift lever question.

Jetting....

Rim......

Sprocket-ectomy. Did it on my bike. Straight forward to do, but you have to do the dipstick length by trial and error. I found no issues with the fact that the cover was less supported.
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13802.msg102819.html#msg102819

Fork brace....

[Mustang]

So... it's that time of year now in the far northern hemisphere to get our cats out of hibernation. Obviously lots of new/old questions starts to brew in the farkling/maintenance part of the brain. I've gone through all the 88 pages of threads (not each and every thread, doh!) of steamer information and about 50 or so on the Farkling and Toys. Still I'm left with questions...



1. Checking valve clearance? - As long as the cam shaft tips aren't pressing on the shim I can measure, right? Or does the tip have to be pointing EXACTLY away from the shim?, how close to "EXACTLY away" is close enough? Seems to me as long as I have backside /rounded side) pointing down I can measure reliably. Right or wrong? RIGHT

2. Over sized shim on EX? - From my measurements I have an EX shim with 0.26 clearance (should be 0.15-0.20). How can that be? Did the PO mess up the last shimming that badly or could it actually happen mechanically? NOT SURPRISING................PROBABLY CAME FROM tRIUMPH THAT WAY . hAVE SEEN MANY LIKE THAT OVER THE YEARS


3. Clear break/back light housing? - I want to have a clear/white glass one and go with red LEDs. Obviously can't find one specific for the steamer, so what aftermarket options fit reasonably well. It is rather large (150x80mm?) so I wouldn't want to go with a really small one, it would just look out of place. Although I have been pondering using two half size ones side by side. Oh, and I want BRIGHT lights. Don't want some idiot crashing into me cuz "they couldn't" see me.HEADIGHT USE SOME OF THE FANCY SCHMANCY H4'S THAT COST ABOUT $50 BUCKS EACH BY SYLVANIA


4. Direct shift lever (with folding tip)? - It's been talked about several times. Although I cant figure if anyone managed to get a decent one working. Yes, cutting and welding is necessary and I'm up for it (or friendly people of mine are). So what's the verdict? Which one? Take a spare stocker, cut it all up and start welding bits and pieces until it fits? Or something that it a rather close match and just do 1-2 steps?WITH OUT REPACING THE INTERNAL SHIFT DRUM IT WILL SHIFT BACKWARDS, IE 1UP 5 DOWN


5. Jetting for 3-1 exhaust for KEHIN?(w/ or w/o K&N) - Any of you 3-1 owners that can share the jet sizes that worked for you? I know I have to do my own, but would be nice to have something to aim for at least. Note, for the KEHINs! No Mikunis please.
iF YOU HAVEN'T DONE ANYTHING TO MOTOR A THREE INTO ONE IS JUST MAKING NOISE . YOU CAN RUN ON STOCK JETTING ALBEIT A LITTLE ON THE LEAN SIDE . i WOULDN'T GO MORE THAN 105 MAINS , AND START WITH 2 TURNS OUT ON PILOT SCREW WITH oem PILOT JET

6. SS Girly spoked rear rim? - I know the 4.25" Girly rim fits. What I don't understand is this Stainless Steel part. Are all the Girly rims Behr? Are all the Behr rims SS? Or is it JUST the spokes that one can get SS? I find several nice options from wreckers and Ebay, but they're all cast rims and there are people/companies selling the SS spokes on their own. Some one care to straighten this out for me, all SS or only spokes?SPOKES


7. Sprocketectomy short dipstick length? - Anyone who has cut up the sprocket cover and cut the dipstick to proper lenght? How long should it be? How do you measure how long it should be? And what about top part of cover bending from clutch push rod strain? Not much attaching it on the lower side anymore..

8. Front fork brace measurements? - Question perhaps angled towards Mustang mostly, but others might have done it. I want to fabricate a brace that holds the two front forks together/apart (like Mustang did with his "Tigger 2" machined into it). Does anyone have the correct measurements for this piece? I've run without anything between the forks for a while and I'm not sure I can get a correct stock measurement between them now if they've sagged/bent due to strain.

Cheers!iT BARELY FIT , IT RUBBED ON TIRES ,AND DIDN'T DO ANYTHING FOR HANDLING , LOOKED COOL THOUGH

[P3aK]

Thank you!!

You two have just about answered everything for me. 

Still can't find any reasonable brake light house though. So if someone has had any success there,  please share.

[Sin_Tiger]

You might want to have a look at this nicely done job by Coohandluke.

Steamer LED Rear Light Cluster

[P3aK]

Thanks! I have been looking at that one and I will probably go down that route. But it doesn't solve the clear housing. I want to get rid of the red housing. That's the priority.

I'm looking for something like this:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Clear-LED-Tail-Brake-Light-For-Triumph-Daytona-595-995-Speed-Triple-Motorcycle-/151310368759?nav=SEARCH

[Sin_Tiger]

True but I don't think clear lenses were in vogue then so you'll struggle.

Just a thought but if you're willing to go that far have you thought about making one yourself? Or modifying a spare one. Remember you'll need to fit a reflector to stay at least quasi legal.

[P3aK]

Well my latest idea is mounting 2 of these side by side (they're 55mm diameter so plenty of space):

http://www.hojstyling.se/produkt/vortex-baklampa-i-led/

There are both clear and smoked options. As long as they're E-marked the MOT won't mind (from what I've heared). I'd loose the license plate light, but that can be more easily solved.

I can build one my self from scratch, but to actually find a clear/smoked housing/glass that is rectangular and close to 150x80mm has proved ridiculously difficult. And I'm not sure if the E-marking applies to the housing or the complete light. Might not be legal even if I found a housing for bulbs and converted it to LED. 

[Sin_Tiger]

  having the E11 mark is going to getting through an inspection easier. There'll still be enough space below them to fit a reflector and perhaps hide a small LED down light for the number plate

Nice little project, take plenty of photos and write it up on a separate thread if you would please