Runs bad in low rews.

[Swede1]

Hi again dear friends!
I got an answer on my latest problem. (Adjusted the intake valves (Thank you Mustang)
But still it runs with a hesitation up to 5000 rpm's.
Then it flyes like a bat out off hell! When I checked the sparks it was perfect on #1 and weak on 2 &3. Can it be the Cdi -box ?
It shoots in the mufflers when I go downhill with the gashandle closed. 

[London_Phil]

Think that's the coil or coils failing.
Think most of us have had that one.
I fitted TT600 coil sticks.

[threepot]

Yes,I recommend the coil mod.

[Mustang]

Lucas must own stock in Gill , cuz they both really suck at making a bullet proof ignition system

[Swede1]

Think that's the coil or coils failing.
Think most of us have had that one.
I fitted TT600 coil sticks.

[threepot]

'Shooting in the mufflers'? You mean 'backfire',or a 'popping' sound like I've got,due to holes in them

[Mustang]

But still it runs with a hesitation up to 5000 rpm's.
Then it flyes like a bat out off hell! When I checked the sparks it was perfect on #1 and weak on 2 &3. Can it be the Cdi -box ?
It shoots in the mufflers when I go downhill with the gashandle closed. 

excess fuel in the exhausts from intermittent fire of 1 or all 3 coils.
would be willing to bet it goes away after you fix the coil issue
or it's what threepot says "holes or leaks in the exhaust "

[Swede1]

 I've changed the 3 coils before and now I've ordered a new pic up coil. So if it wouldn't help I'm lost. I got theHaynes manual but I can't find the "CDI-box" there is another name for it I recall but can it be that wich is giving the bad spark?   

[Sin_Tiger]

CDI is on the left side of the front cowl sub frame, take the left side fairing off to access.

It's not unheard of for these to fail but not common and it would seem to be caused by a failed HT coil. Swap your coils around to try to isolate a bad one. Make sure your HT leads are in good condition and properly pushed home onto the coil and plug terminals.

[Mustang]

I've changed the 3 coils before and now I've ordered a new pic up coil. So if it wouldn't help I'm lost. I got theHaynes manual but I can't find the "CDI-box" there is another name for it I recall but can it be that wich is giving the bad spark?   

Triumph calls it an "igniter"
inside it is three complete circuits , 1 for each cylinder , #1 circuit is what feed the tachometer signal
there is a transistor and a load of diodes , nothing that is repairable , or highly doubtful that anything in the igniter is causing intermittent spark.
I suppose it could be the pick up coil but that usually just fails completely when hot and then returns when it cools off.
when you say you replaced coils , where they new ones like nologys or the same pc of $hit Gill coils that were on it .

because the symptoms you describe are the pc of $hit gill coils failing
they were made with sub standard (piss poor) wiring that the enamel insulation breaks downon then the coil windings short out and a break develops in the winding and the current has to jump the gap just like it does on the spark plug until eventually the break becomes too big to "jump the gap"
so as you can see even brand new gill coils can be screwed , it's an age thing more than use that they go bad .
It will run fine at high rpm though as the system has more oomph at high rpm and can jump the gap in the broken coil winding .

You can ohm your coils out with a meter , they should check out at .6 ohms
but 99% of the time they will ohm out fine but are still fucked 

[threepot]

Even the PVL'S can fail. Ask ST,he was riding pillion when mine started to play up!! Buy a set of Denso Sticks,if you can find a set at reasonable cost.

[Swede1]

I bought new Lucas*-coils (*the inventor of darkness 😃)
When I checked for coils now again out came up both picupcoil and some other strange piece?
I'm so mad about this $hit and I've tried to fix it for years! 

[Swede1]

About switching the coils... I've tried that but it seems like it doesn't change a thing

[threepot]

Did you re use existing ht leads? Could be bad??

[Earthscape]

Years ago I had identical symptoms.  Check your coil polarity.  If one or more coils are connected in reverse polarity, it will do as you describe.  I was the unlucky recipient of shoddy dealer work, who connected one coil in reverse after some service that I don't remember.  I replaced my Gill coils with Nology at that time too, thinking that was the problem.  Because I put the new coils in the exact same way the old ones were in, I duplicated the problem at first!  I was able to isolate the cylinder that was having the problem by checking which exhaust header was cooler.  I noticed that the wire colors on that cylinder coil were different than the others.  Switched the wires and instantly the bike ran smooth as glass in comparison.  The red wires (ground) should all be on the left coil leads.