Removing the clock set......................?

[thebiglad]

Hi Guys as part of my plan for rejuvenating my 2006 Tiger 955i I would like to take off the clock set so that:

1. I can thoroughly clean it ;

2. Replace the clocks and idiot light bulbs as a. some have blown & b. the idiot lights are almost invisible during the day.

So to my question - how do I remove the dashboard so I can access the bulbs. Is it just a matter of removing the screen then the 2 large torx bolts, or is there more to it?

Cheers
Dave

[Timbox2]

Bit more Im afraid. Screen, both indicator pods( 3 bolts each), then you have the 4 large hex bolts, the 2 you know about plus the 2 hidden  behind the indicator pods. Then the cowl will come off.  I cant remember but you may then have to remove the headlight assy (3 hex bolts) to get at the wiring plugs for the clocks. Sounds a lot, but I had all this off at the weekend ( But not the clocks) and takes about 15 mins.

[thebiglad]

Bit more Im afraid. Screen, both indicator pods( 3 bolts each), then you have the 4 large hex bolts, the 2 you know about plus the 2 hidden  behind the indicator pods. Then the cowl will come off.  I cant remember but you may then have to remove the headlight assy (3 hex bolts) to get at the wiring plugs for the clocks. Sounds a lot, but I had all this off at the weekend ( But not the clocks) and takes about 15 mins.

That's great Tim, just what I needed to know.

Thanks very much,

Dave

[Dyn Blin]

Once it's exposed according to Tim's guidance,  the idiot strip comes off in a single pod and lights are disengaged from a rubber holder.   The instruments themselves are of varying sizes.  I posted a guide here a bit back.  I'll find it.

If you have a bit of extra allowance set aside for beer, spend a few on a no-load signal relay to support LED bulbs.  Even if you don't swap the instrument bulbs  from incandescent,  it'll save you some fast-flash headache if you convert turn signals later.

Don't forget the parking lights in the headlight cowl.

[Dyn Blin]

Replacement sizes for the cluster:

6 Warning lights 3W Size  T6.5 (aka "24")
2 Tach/Clock  1.7W Size T6.5 (aka "24")
3 for Speedo/Fuel/Temp 1.7W Size  T10  (aka "194")

2 for parking lights in the headlight cowl:   194/T10

No load relay:  CF13-GL02

[thebiglad]

Hi Dyn Blin, thank you very much for your replies, most useful.

Ref the no-load relay, is this the indicator relay or something different. Don't quite understand what I'm supposed to be doing with this?????

Cheers
Dave

[Dyn Blin]

Cheers Dave,

You don't need a no-load relay if you are replacing the bulbs with incandescents, like the originals.  However, if you're replacing with LED's, the low load of the LED will cause the turn signals to malfunction either via a quick flash, or solid/non-flashing light, or not lighting at all.  Similarly, if you later replace the turn signals with LED, you'll have a similar issue with the OEM relay.

When you remove the cockpit fairing, you'll see a row of relay's on the right side (from the perspective of looking at the bike from the front).  When they left the factory, they were covered by a rubber boot, but mine long since disintegrated.   I can't recall the exact position of the signal relay (although I  might wager it'll be the 2nd one from the top), but you'll know it because it sits proud of the others.

Although it's not necessarily needed depending on your plans, replacing the OEM signal relay with the CF13-GL02 plays nicely with both LED and incandescent, or a combo of both.

If you do choose to source one, don't mix it up with the similar 3-pin no-load CF13 JL02 which has the polarity pins reversed- it wouldn't hurt anything, it simply won't work.

[thebiglad]

Cheers Dave,

You don't need a no-load relay if you are replacing the bulbs with incandescents, like the originals.  However, if you're replacing with LED's, the low load of the LED will cause the turn signals to malfunction either via a quick flash, or solid/non-flashing light, or not lighting at all.  Similarly, if you later replace the turn signals with LED, you'll have a similar issue with the OEM relay.

When you remove the cockpit fairing, you'll see a row of relay's on the right side (from the perspective of looking at the bike from the front).  When they left the factory, they were covered by a rubber boot, but mine long since disintegrated.   I can't recall the exact position of the signal relay (although I  might wager it'll be the 2nd one from the top), but you'll know it because it sits proud of the others.

Although it's not necessarily needed depending on your plans, replacing the OEM signal relay with the CF13-GL02 plays nicely with both LED and incandescent, or a combo of both.

If you do choose to source one, don't mix it up with the similar 3-pin no-load CF13 JL02 which has the polarity pins reversed- it wouldn't hurt anything, it simply won't work.

That's top quality info Dyn, really excellent stuff.

I was aware of the indicator relay and LED problem, I just wasn't sure that the one you were talking about was the indicator one, as I didn't know it's type number.

While I've got everything apart it sounds like a great idea to change it, just as prep for future mods.

Thanks very much mate, you've gone above and beyond. I am very grateful.

Cheers
Dave