No. 1 cylinder rich?

[TR5TRIDER]

My 96 Tiger is not running well on #1 cyl. and I have checked compression, all three are at 120 psi, so I am believing the the valve adjust that was done several months ago is good. The bike was running well approx 4 months ago and then I was away from the bikes for a series of surgeries that took most of 3 mos. & during that time I was able to return for brief visits and took that opportunity to run the bikes on their stands as I could not ride. During that time my Tiger somehow developed this condition on #1 cyl. I have run compression test as stated, put in new spark plugs, swapped coils (I am using coil sticks but that should not matter). The engine is slow to return to idle (hits a plateau at 2,000 rpm holds there a bit the settles down to normal idle. I have read temps of the exhaust headers of warmed up engine and am getting the following: #1@ 210F, #2& #3@ 620F. The spark plugs on #2 & #3 looking good with slight brown coloration but #1 plug is black. Also I did balance the carbs at  the time of the valve adjustment. I am unsure which way to proceed, ignition or carbs? Looking for advice please.

[Nick Calne]

So it's a poor combustion problem on no.1? Cold, sooty combustion? Getting a good spark?

Don't know about the idle issue. I'd try and sort the above first and then see what happens as a result.

Ps hope you are feeling better after being surgeried upon.

[Sin_Tiger]

You - exercise, beer, rest. ... repeat.

Bike - carbs

[JayDub]

#1 plug is black.

Over fueling? #1 choke sticking?

[TR5TRIDER]

JayDub,
I don't think #1 choke / enrichener  sticking is likely as they act in unison.  maybe a float issue?

Sin,
I went through the carbs maybe a year back, new float assemblies & o rings included, and set/checked float levels. Is there a way to use the drain screws in float bowls to fit a clear plastic tube to visually check fuel level in float bowl? Triumph indicates that method in the service manual. I think it is not the needle & seat as there is no fuel running out of the carbs.
As for your recommendations for recovering, I have modified them a bit; exercise, whisky and a cigar in the evening and then some rest.

Nick,
I did not visually check the spark but after installing new plugs and switching coil with #3 think that the spark is good but will visually check.
Thank you for the good wishes, I would say I am near to being normal again but that is arguable as many I know would say that I have never been normal. I am riding again and doing the chores, so can't complain. Now going for a whisky and a cigar and wind down.

Thanks for the response.

[Mustang]

My 96 Tiger is not running well on #1 cyl. and I have checked compression, all three are at 120 psi, so I am believing the the valve adjust that was done several months ago is good. The bike was running well approx 4 months ago and then I was away from the bikes for a series of surgeries that took most of 3 mos. & during that time I was able to return for brief visits and took that opportunity to run the bikes on their stands as I could not ride. During that time my Tiger somehow developed this condition on #1 cyl. I have run compression test as stated, put in new spark plugs, swapped coils (I am using coil sticks but that should not matter). The engine is slow to return to idle (hits a plateau at 2,000 rpm holds there a bit the settles down to normal idle. I have read temps of the exhaust headers of warmed up engine and am getting the following: #1@ 210F, #2& #3@ 620F. The spark plugs on #2 & #3 looking good with slight brown coloration but #1 plug is black. Also I did balance the carbs at  the time of the valve adjustment. I am unsure which way to proceed, ignition or carbs? Looking for advice please.

the pilot circuit on #1 is clogged with ethanol shit debris ........guaranteed 

[davetheworv]

The man above knows.

was gonna say bad fuel

[Sin_Tiger]

the pilot circuit on #1 is clogged with ethanol shit debris ........guaranteed 

Clear, concise and to the point #steamersinanutshellbymustang 

I went through the carbs maybe a year back, new float assemblies & o rings included, and set/checked float levels. Is there a way to use the drain screws in float bowls to fit a clear plastic tube to visually check fuel level in float bowl? Triumph indicates that method in the service manual. I think it is not the needle & seat as there is no fuel running out of the carbs.

Sadly it doesn't take more than a few weeks as Mustang has often said, I know this like the rest. The pic below is a VW T2 carb that was ultrasonically cleaned and fed with fresh juice after sitting for just a few months. There is a special tool for checking the levels, Iv'e tried to figure out a way to make something myself but it's such a faff to do on the bike that I resort to the old method, take the carbs off, take the bowls off, turn them upside down and look along the line of the floats, if they are near enough similar they'll be fine.

You're approved recovery routine is tried, tested and approved by the Scottish health service 

[TR5TRIDER]

Dayum, always such a struggle to get the carbs and air box back on, and this old man running short of patience as the years pass too swiftly. My fuel injected Girly and Scrambler had no problems yet all received same care. My observation, over time, indicates that the throttle body fuel injected bikes do much better when laid up for a bit.
The old bikes that I started riding many years back and which I still ride on occasion are so easy to access that I am spoiled. Just take the tank off all was accessible, except for the horn on Norton Commando crammed in between rear fender swing arm.
Well I now have a direction in which to proceed ........pilot jet!
Thank you for the help.

[TR5TRIDER]

Having a go at the carbs will be an opportunity to improve the Dread Air Box problem and make the modification as described by Sin. Are there any things to watch out for when separating the the box?

[London_Phil]

I just did this and had some issues.

I still rate it as a positive mod, but;

1 ) getting the location for the cut just so, to miss the strengthener bars moulded into the top is hit and miss, and you don't have a definitive cut location obvious when you don't have one apart

2) I had trouble with the dexterity needed to glue and trim the rubber, let alone glue it to the cut part. In the end I left it off, and used some tape, whilst I have another go with my spare over the winter.
   
3) If you can't get the 4 long  screws out cleanly when you try to separate the halves, its a pig.

4) When re assembling, It was great when putting the part on over the carb, but getting access to all the screws after fitting the back was impossible. I had to leave at least one inner screw out.

1st time round, it took longer to cut, modify and replace, than to fit a new one, BUT, Its a good mod, and I hope when I finally get my spare one rubbered up, it will be worth it.

[TR5TRIDER]

Phil,
I did take a look at the accessibility of the screws joining the box pieces together and see what you refer to in your item #4 and can see that screws partly masked by the frame spine will be a booger to get at straight on. Your item #3, long screws, as I have not removed the box and disassembled I am thinking that you refer to the 2 (each side) large head screws that are the most visible and at  the outer most faces of the box. Can you please clarify?

[London_Phil]

Exactly as you describe.
I had to drill out the heads of the 3 long screws that were seized in the bushes, and in order not to melt the plastic, it took a long time, and then I had to grind the shafts off.
Then a big rinse of the swarf.
I would check on the condition of your existing airbox well, before attempting this.
Might be worth getting a donor used box from the ebays.

[threepot]

This is the 'mod' I did to mine. And providing the screw heads are in good condition,screwed back in OK.

[London_Phil]

How did you seal between the two edges of the cut?