Some fairly easy questions

[Nick Calne]

Just doing a bit of basic maintenance and I thought I would ask some (probably) easy questions since I don't know the answers...

Q1. Struggling to get the steamers front socket off as I am replacing the chain.  How the dickens do you get the bugger off, do you need an impact wrench?
It doesn't look especially worn, can I avoid replacing it?  I seem to recall when I did this last, maybe 8 years ago or so, you had to do the lot in one go.  The rear socket is done, I have the new front one ready.

Q2.  Replaced the worn down rear brake disc and written all over the box for the new disc is the warning that I should replace the brake pads at the same time.  Is this true or just a way to make EBC yet more money?  What are the consequences of not doing what they say?  The brake pads are only a thousand or so miles old.

Thanks N

[Timbox2]

Second person is useful for 1st operation. If not I have bike on sidestand and in gear,front wheel preferably up against wall or solid object. Stand astride bike while using r/h foot on rear brake and apply front brake too and use left hand with large breaker bar reaching down and pull up. Takes a bit of balance/dexterity but Ive never had a problem, you do need a decent 1/2" drive bar 2ft long min.

Regarding the disc, as its the rear and as long as the pads dont have any grooves and are perfectly flat I'd go with them

[JayDub]

Q1, An impact gun is effective but I applied penetrating oil a few times and left it overnight, then (assuming the chain is still on) get someone to stand on the rear brake  while you apply a lot of pressure with an extension bar, It will come off... eventually - I use an old fork tube on a T bar. - You have bent the locking tabs away from the nut haven't you Nick?  Compare the shape of the teeth with the new one, if they curve towards the points then its worn.
Q2, The old pads will probably have grooves from the old disc which will effectively reduce the contact area, if they're just slight then you can get away with just taking care whilst they bed in as with new pads, obviously this depends how much meat is left on them - it may be worth replacing them just the same (remember that psycho sheep last year  )

[Nick Calne]

Thanks guys, gonna try some penetrating oil on the sprocket and leave the pads as they are.  They are pretty meaty.

[threepot]

Try locking the rear wheel with some wood? I would use the existing pads. They should bed in to the new disc?

[Beernard]

1. Having been through this a few times, I think an impact wrench (rattle-gun we say around here!) is the go. All over in a second, but you need access to one, of course. I think (for what its worth in dollars) why not replace the lot?
2. Personally, I treat all lovely, smooth and perfect brake discs with the luxury of new pads. Mmmmm. I can't help but think they might stay lovely, smooth and perfect. Perhaps ridgey old pads cut ridges in the lovely, smooth and perfect brake discs.
These are but my opinions. Hope all goes well and I reckon ANY maintenance is better than NO maintenance. All the best to you.

[Sin_Tiger]

If the pads have plenty of meat, give them a quick rub on a piece of sand paper laid on a flat surface, just enough to take the high spots off and help them bed in a little more quickly.

The recommendations for new pads with new discs is to prevent the high spots on the pads creating localised high temperatures altering the surface molecular structure of the disc material which in turn allows accelerated wear. Large, even contact area spreads the heat with the desired results.

[rf9rider]

I had to use a 10 foot scaffold pole slid over a 2 foot breaker bar to remove my front sprocket plus a mate helped steady the bike!

[ssevy]

I have an older Black and Decker electric impact wrench that I bought probably 30 years ago. Harbor Freight and other cheap tool outlets sell them pretty inexpensively. They are the cat's ass for removing highly torqued nuts!
Without one, I would try a breaker bar (not a ratchet, as you might break the teeth doing what I'm about to suggest)and a good stout wooden club (like a carver's mallet). It's the sudden shock to the nut that loosens it rather than just lots of force like an extension pipe gives you.