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Alternator rattle cure

Started by Tomcat61, March 12, 2018, 02:09:39 PM

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Tomcat61

Hello all,

It's been long since I last time logged in this forum. The Winter is almost over and Spring is here maybe in a month or so. I decided to look into the alternator. It made the noise that indicates a loose bolt.  But first I have to get the alternator out.

I took out the cover, no problems.  As I was loosening the nuts one nut rolled somewhere behind water hose but that's not a real problem.  My question is that do I have to disconnect the waterhose to pull the alternator out?  After I take off 3 torx screws, that is?

I'm sure I had a repir manual saved in my phone or ipad but can't find it.

I will try to pull alternator out but if it requires the waterhose to be removed that can be a little problem as I can't drain the cooling liquid on my neighbour's garage floor  :icon_frown:

So any help will be appreciated    :thumbsup
Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

threepot

Off the top of my head,I think it needs removing to get the starter out?
95 Super111
96 Tiger

Tomcat61

Not sure about that as it seems not harm the alternator being pulled straight out but the waterhose going from cylinder head to waterpump obstructs a little and also the clutch fluid line going to clutch  cylinder. I'll have a new try tomorrow. It's unheated garage and it's like -3C outside. In fact it felt colder inside due to concrete floor. We had temps like -28C some time ago.
Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

JayDub

After you remove the metal cover over the water pipe you may have to push the pipe away and wiggle the alternator past the clutch line, but you shouldn't need to detach the pipe, I didn't.  the alternator can be a tight fit due to the 'O'ring.

GavD

I've done it a few times.

Tank off, carbs out, alternator out. No need to disconnect water hose.
'98 Steamer (Black of course), '18 BMW R NineT Urban G/S

Tomcat61

Thanks to all for help. I will let you know how it went  :icon_smile:
Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

threepot

Quote from: Tomcat61 on March 12, 2018, 05:07:05 PM
Not sure about that as it seems not harm the alternator being pulled straight out but the waterhose going from cylinder head to waterpump obstructs a little and also the clutch fluid line going to clutch  cylinder. I'll have a new try tomorrow. It's unheated garage and it's like -3C outside. In fact it felt colder inside due to concrete floor. We had temps like -28C some time ago.
We had about -7 last week!😉
95 Super111
96 Tiger

Tomcat61

#7
I got the alternator out without removing anything but the screws holding it in place.
The bolt in the pic was about 2mm out.
Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

Tomcat61

Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

JayDub

Any play in the drive plate?...  Or was it like both of mine - nice and tight,  and simply a case of 'they all sound like that' :icon_rolleyes:

Tomcat61

Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

Tomcat61

Quote from: JayDub on March 13, 2018, 10:26:05 PM
Any play in the drive plate?...  Or was it like both of mine - nice and tight,  and simply a case of 'they all sound like that' :icon_rolleyes:

I did check it: maybe 1mm so it's "normal"? Is it possible/wise to fill the gap between drive plate and shaft with some suitable stuff? Or just clean the thread and tighten the bolt with some thread lock?

Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

Tomcat61

Drive plate has had some contact with something but that's no problem.  The drive rubber bits are ok.
Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

JayDub

I don't think any play is normal. I think there should be a washer under the bolt head - check its in place.

Mustang

The splines enlarge is what happens when you've run it with a broken off bolt head
The longer it rattles the worse the fit on the splines
No amount of washers or bolts will stop the rattle now.
Only brand new drive hub and alternator shaft will fix it "right"
But lock tite green
The permanent stuff
Will stop the rattle



But it will be a mother fucker to ever get apart if you need to