taking the gas tank off an efi Tiger

[Bull]

You guys were great with the advice I needed for taking the wheels off:



http://www.triumph-tiger.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=2008 (http://www.triumph-tiger.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2008)



so now I have new rubber mounted on the bike - and a good deal more experience working on a couple of the areas of the bike that I hadn't touched before.  And with your helpful advice - the whole job went very smoothly indeed (not a single SNAFU)  :D



.... so before I pluck the tank off for a repainting - what do I need to know?   :?:



I would guess that it would be wise to label the quick disconnects to make sure they get replaced in the right place ... same with the breather tubes.



Now dear Tiger Friends - are there any other Good-To-Knows before I proceed?



Thanks in advance for all your ideas ...... cheers - Bull



PS - is there such a thing as a Haynes Manual for the injected Tigers?

[echoyankee]

Hey Bull!



I just went through this with my dry break connectors  a few weeks back.



Lessee what I remember:





1.  Turn signal pods have to come off, 2 allen drive fasteners each.

2.  Uhm, both seats come off.

3.  Both 'knee level' panels come off. 2 fasteners on R side, and 1 on the R side.  Allen drive.

4.  The battery comes out and there are now torx fittings to deal with.  Two against the back end of the tank and 1 in the bottom of the "battery bucket"  that one down there is gonna be a drag to get at, someone else has written that they'd wished for an extension on the end of their driver for it.  I'd take the 'battery box' out and out of the way.  I seem to remember having to thread those battery connections carefully back in when the box went back down into the frame somehow.  

5.  Connections:  Well, yeah, the now infamous dry break fuel disconnects get undone.  Then there is the little plastic electrical connect just by the fuel disconnects.  There are a couple of drain tubes that snake down from the tank on the L side from little metal nipple fittings.  I guess if you don't aren't paying attention, those could separate from the fittings.  That's kinda benign.  There was ONE more connection underneath the bike that required a little disconnect from a little plastic disconnect above the motor and below the tank.  

6.  I think there's one more allen fastener up by the front steering and the tank should come free.



That's all I can think of.



Anyone else remember something I missed?



Good luck Bull.



Best,



echoyankee

[Bull]

thanks Echo Yankee



this is just the stuff I needed.  I had no idea of the electrical connector until you mentioned it (then of course, it's obvious- you'd need one to carry info re: fuel level).



It's also good to know that it's helpful to get rid of the battery cage first - that's the beauty of this site - each of us can learn from the other - rather than being condemned to repeat each other's experiences.  :roll:



thanks mate - Bull  :lol:

[coldcanadian]

Hey Bull



Always good to here from another Canadian Tiger owner. echoyankee covered it pretty well. There are actually three allen screws on the signal pods. Two visible from the side and one smaller one on the inside of the fairing just by the top triple clamp. Also remember, when you have everything disconnected and are ready to pull the tank, make sure the handle bars are straight or you may damage the paint on the way out. Helps to have an empty tank. Have fun.

[wasions]

One correction (at least on my bike):  three screws on each of the turn signal pods - the long one goes under the front.

[iansoady]

PS - is there such a thing as a Haynes Manual for the injected Tigers?

Yes - it's a generalised one for all injected bikes up to 2000 although much of the info is applicable to later machines. Find it at http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&categoryId=15013&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=10501&top_category=10004.



Like most Haynes manuals it is not too hot in some areas (assembly is the reverse of disassembly......)

[jp4evr]

Just went through this last night... very easy actually.  The FI tank connectors are all self sealing so no worries for leaks.



The Haynes manual is great for this... better than factory IMHO.  



I needed a long t-handle allen for the batter box and I labeled all my hoses - simple things like inside/ outside, top/bottom, etc.  

Putting it back on the hoses seemed to get in the way of each other.  It's all a very snug fit and the battery box is a bitch.



I found it helpful to loosen the bars and rotate forward to get the controls out of the way, but they do need to be straight to avoid contact with the tank.



Don't forget to replace the O-rings on the quick connects - return lines.  I didn't, but I'm going to be taking it back off shortly anyway.  



this would be a good time to re-route your crankcase breather hose ... if yours didn't already come with this problem solved.

[Frank.B]

I found some pics of the tank removal procedure at http://triumphtigerworkshop.mysite.wana ... ers.co.uk/ (http://triumphtigerworkshop.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/) hope this helps.